General maintenance and fluid changes

[RyanbabZ71]

Ok my truck is no 2 yrs old and has 25K miles (a little over)

 

When should i change the coolant, trans, and any other fluid.  

 

What about cleaning the throttle body.  How do you do this?  I heard every 30K miles it should be done

 

I am replacing the fuel and engine filter in a few wks.

 

Just wondering if i should do any other maintenance (doesnt need an oil or rear diff change)

[MarkD]

You may want to change your brake fluid if you live in an area that sees temperature extremes.  Water condensates in brake fluid.  The local Midas will do it for $30.  I do mine every 2 years.  Same thing on coolant.  It never hurts to run a coolant flush and change it every 2-3 years on a vehicle that sees heavy use.

 

I't may be overkill, but I put it in the same category as trans/diff fluid changes.  Cheap insurance.

[carguru]

You shouldn't have to mess with the coolant yet unless it has changed on you (color gotten darker, or crud floating in it).  It should be fine for a bit longer.  Just make sure the concentration is correct.  I would consider bleeding the brakes, changing brake fluid.  You'd be surprised how much crud is in the brake lines after a couple of years.  I usually do this every couple years.  If you do much hard driving, towing, etc, I would change the tranny fluid and the t-case fluid.  Inspect the throttle body for much carbon buildup.  Wouldn't hurt to clean it up.  And definitely change the fuel filter.  It is your only line of defense before crud gets into your injectors.  Check air filter also.  My $.02.

[bowtie_pasta]

If you don't have one already, pick up a Haynes guide and take a peek at the Maintenance Schedule they outline in there.  It will detail specific intervals for all types of maintenance.

[Big Boy]

This guy is a genius.  Check out his reccomendations.

 

http://www.patgosscarworld.com/tmwhen.htm

[99silveradoz71]

Ryan, or anyone else with the answer, When doing the fuel filter change, do you actually have to disconnect the negative battery cable?  Also, do you need a fuel pressure gauge to release the pressure, or would removing the gas cap and disconnecting the filter slowly do this?  Sorry for all the stupid questions, but I haven't done this before and I'm not the mechanically gifted type.

[carguru]

Ryan, or anyone else with the answer, When doing the fuel filter change, do you actually have to disconnect the negative battery cable?  Also, do you need a fuel pressure gauge to release the pressure, or would removing the gas cap and disconnecting the filter slowly do this?  Sorry for all the stupid questions, but I haven't done this before and I'm not the mechanically gifted type.

You don't have to have a fuel pressure gauge.  Just relieve pressure by removing gas cap. You will get a little bit of fuel that remained in the filter and the line to come out when you take it off.

[CMNTMXR81]

No need to disconnect the battery, no need to de-pressurize the fuel system.  These are just warnings much like the 'Must wear safety goggle!" one on hammers.  Just don't lay under the filter as you change it unless you like Eau De Gasoline.    I've changed three in the last week and it'd take longer to disconnect the battery and de-pressurize the system than to change the filter itself.

 

As to fluids;

 

1) Coolant.  We have 100,000 mile Dexcool coolant.  While it will last 100,000+ miles, I wouldn't let it get that long.  I'd change it between 50,000 - 75,000 miles, but that's me.  I'd flush it at the same time.

 

2) Trans fluid.  This is more dependant upon the application and usage.  If you simply use it for everyday commuting, light utility, etc, 50,000 is pretty much the norm.  If you use it heavy, I'd recommend changing it and the filter in the 25,000 - 30,000 area.  If you have access to a power flush system like many dealers have, I'd highly recommend this as it'll flush out the remaining trans fluid in the converter that normally wouldn't come out with a standard filter/fluid change.

 

3) Rear end.  Unless you drag race, tow heavily, etc, I'd do this around 50k.   If you do race, tow, I'd suggest sooner, but that's just me be anal retentive.  Plus with the additive GM puts in, it's probably just a good idea.

 

4) Brake fluid. As needed

5) Power steering fluid.  As needed

 

If you road race/auto-x, I'd suggest doing 4 & 5 more often.  I know many auto-x'ers that flush their brake system after every few races due to the extreme heat their brakes generate on the track.

 

Oh and don't forget the blinker fluid.  I'd do that every other oil change.   :0  

[99silveradoz71]

I've changed three in the last week and it'd take longer to disconnect the battery and de-pressurize the system than to change the filter itself.

Fuel filter just unscrews at both ends and then comes out from between the black bracket/clamp?  Other question...is this a dealer only part, or would I be able to get a fuel filter at Murray's Auto or another store?  Any recommendations?

[carguru]

Fuel filter just unscrews at both ends and then comes out from between the black bracket/clamp?  Other question...is this a dealer only part, or would I be able to get a fuel filter at Murray's Auto or another store?  Any recommendations?

You should be able to get them outside the dealer.  I've seen them at Pep Boys here.  I got them through a nearby dealer because I was able to get them for less.  I've also seen them from Fram and Purolator etc.  

 

Unscrew the ends and undo the bracket, the filter should come right out.  Just make sure you have a set of flare nut wrenches to prevent twising damage to the fuel lines.

[CMNTMXR81]

If it's a Fram G7315 (which is used on virtually 90% of GM vehicles), it unscrews on the outlet side and has a plastic snap style clip on the inlet side that'll you'll need to pop off.

 

Like I said, it's most likely a Fram G7315 as that's a common GM filter.

[99silveradoz71]

Unscrew the ends and undo the bracket, the filter should come right out.  Just make sure you have a set of flare nut wrenches to prevent twising damage to the fuel lines.

Flare nut wrenches?  Lost me there.  Basically you mean have something to hold the ends of the fuel lines so they don't rotate when I'm unscrewing the filter?  Also someone mentioned the outlet and inlet ends, which is which?  As mentioned in other posts, my mechanical knowledge is lacking, but it's things like this that I want to try to build up my knowledge base.  Thanks,

Bill

[CMNTMXR81]

You can use a regular open end wrench.  I did cause I broke my Flare wrenches a long time ago.  

 

The filter will usually have an arrow on it denoting which is the inlet and which is the outlet.  But if it doesn't, the inlet side has a plastic snap retaining collar attached to it and the outlet side is the threaded side.

[carguru]

Flare nut wrenches?  Lost me there.  Basically you mean have something to hold the ends of the fuel lines so they don't rotate when I'm unscrewing the filter?  Also someone mentioned the outlet and inlet ends, which is which?  As mentioned in other posts, my mechanical knowledge is lacking, but it's things like this that I want to try to build up my knowledge base.  Thanks,

Bill

Flare nut wrenches are just open end wrenches with 2 tips that wrap back around.  They are just a bit more stable than open end wrench.  All this does is it holds the fitting so that the fuel line does not get kinked and twisted as you are unscrewing the filter.  You can use an open end wrench instead also, but an open end wrench allows more movement so you might kink the fuel line.

 

As CMT said, there are arrows on the filter telling you which end is which.  This is an easy project.  Just make sure you don't rush it.  

[99silveradoz71]

Sounds good, and if it ever gets back to being Cleveland here instead of Seattle(rain every other day), I'll spend some more time taking a peek under the truck again to see what I need to do.  I don't think it'll be too tough, just have to be careful taking it off and putting it back on.  1 additional question I had was, with this being threaded, does anyone put anything on the threads to prevent rust/make it easy to get off?- maybe vaseline or some white lithium grease or such?