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Chips, FIPKs, Exhaust



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I know we covered this topic a while ago, but we have lots of new members here now.

How have your mods improved (or not improved) your performance?

I'd like to hear what works for the average day-to-day use. Also if you bought something to boost performance and were disappointed in it, let's hear about that, too.

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I've got a 00 Silverado w/ a 4.8 V8 and here's what I think of some of the mods I've done:

K&N drop in filter: Slight improvement, more noticeable if you take it out and replace w/ a paper filter after you've used it for a while

Flowmaster american thunder exhaust: Much deeper and louder tone and a little more responsive throttle

Things I plan on trying are a power programmer (heard good things), Air Injection system, High performance headers, throttle body spacer, new throttle body unit, Upgrading plug wires, and eventually probably about three years from now a supercharger.

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I put the FIPK in my '00 Silverado 5.3L and noticed an improvement in performance and gained about 1/2 mpg.  Plus I loved the sound of it!!!!

The worst part about my FIPK is that it is on teh shelf in the garage because I don't believe it will bolt up to my 6.0L  (sigh) .

(Edited by Shaners at 8:34 pm on Sep. 14, 2001)

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Here are the performance mods I've made to my truck in their respective order.

1)Flowmaster 40 series - Slight mid-top end improvement but slight low end loss due to better out flow without intake compensation.

2)Hypertech PP3 along with the Powerstat 160 -Very noticeable gains across the rpm bands and with the resetting of the factory shift points it will still pull good at higher than factory shift points plus the 160 degree thermostat allows the programmer to advance the timing a little more than if the stock thermo was left in.

3)K & N Gen II FIPK - Really woke the truck up by complimenting the mods that I had already performed to my truck.

That combination above really woke up my V6 and I know that if someone were to go with a similar set up on their V8 that it would be an unbelieveable difference.

These mods are not exactly cheap but worth it in my opinion.

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ive done those exact mods that yZR2k tlak about an have noticed a very nice increase in power and mpg, along with my tonnua cover i get bout 18-19+ mpg , my fipk cost 200 out the door

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I'm still not 100% sold on performance mods.  I can see adding a K&N filter or Mobil 1, but it seems most things I read, people are 50/50 on noticeable gains with a lot of these pricey add ons.  Which for the record, is not to say I wouldn't love to have them myself!  I guess I'm torn, I'd love to have a new intake, exhaust, chip, etc., but I'm still not sure they justify their cost -   :yingyang:

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The best mod for mileage is the free ones.  Try to adjust your driving habits.  Cut down on rpms, and stop/go driving.  Try to baby the truck as much as possible.  Don't use any accessories if possible, and cut down on speed.  Yeah it's tough, but you can do it.  I've gotten 22.1mpg out of my 1993 F-150 before.  

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  • 3 weeks later...

I beleieve all of what I posted was a scam.

 

1) I believe the Splitfire Co was sued in a class action as well as by a govt. consumer group, and I believe they lost.  (perhaps someone know more)

 

2) the Tornado device is a round cylinder with fan baldes that fits inside the intake hose, and supposedly creates a swirling effect of the air.  Likely does nothing.  

 

3) Magnetic Fuel saver; not sure whether it can officially be named a scam, but you can bet it only works in someone's theorizing.

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How I woke up my 00 Silverado on a budget:

 

1. K & N Gen II filter kit. Price at J.C. Whitney is $239 plus I had a catalog that had a 15% discount (this paid for shipping and gave about a $5 discount).

 

2. Flowmaster  cat back exhaust exhaust:  Muffler is a new delta flow series 40 with a 3" inlet and 2 - 2.5" outlets. Custom mandrel bent 2.5" pipes. Done at local muffler shop, muffler, pipes, hangers and labor cost $ 160.50. Delta flow has the great flowmaster sound with greatly reduced cab resonance.

 

3. Stock thermostat is fully adjustable. After removing from the engine the bar that holds the springs and piston in place can be removed by twisting it out of its two supports (caution : do not pry on the supports as they are aluminum and will break off the housing). Once apart you will see a small hole in the center of the aluminum housing, this is where the plunger rod seats. By placing a small spacer in this hole this will cause the thermostat to open at a lower temperature. I experimented with spacer size and checked opening temperature in a pot of hot water on the stove with a thermometer. I wanted it to begin opening at 175 and be fully open at 185. I used a piece of a screw (smaller in diameter than the diameter of the hole so I could remove it easily if desired) I cut about 1/4" length to get my desired temperature range (length of spacer determines temperature). If you do this, make sure you have hold the unit tight in disassembly and reassembly as parts under spring pressure with fly if you are not careful. Cost of reprogrammed thermostat: FREE

 

4. After all above done I turned the ignition to the run position with the engine off and pulled the two underhood fuses (eng 1 and ecm 1). After 15 minutes I turned off the ignition switch and reinstalled the fuses. After driving for about 50 miles the computer will learn the differences the mods have made and will adjust accordingly. Cost of an new intellegence in the computer: FREE

 

5. Cut off the end of the EGR tube that sticks into the intake manifold chamber just to the rear of the throttle body. This disrupts air flow in the intake system. Cost: FREE

 

6. Next I did the hot water bypass at the throttle body. Disconnect the two engine coolant lines  that are attached on the right and left sides. I used a piece of metal tubing to connect the two small coolant lines together and once again complete the circuit. For every degree cooler you can make the intake air the more dense it is and the stronger the engine runs. Cost: FREE  :D    

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