Looking For More Mods?

cbsierra06 · November 22, 2007

I am trying to find more mods I can put on my 2006 Sierra with 5.3. I currently have K&N Intake, Gibson Headers, True Dual Exhaust, Hypertech Hyperpac Programmer. I am aware of the supercharger route but I am not wanting to spend that type of money right now. I would love to put nitrous in my truck but I am kinda scared because of previous experience(blew a motor). I still owe lots of money on my truck and don't want to have to dump a bunch of money to fix the engine. Any Suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Zembonez · November 22, 2007

I am trying to find more mods I can put on my 2006 Sierra with 5.3. I currently have K&N Intake, Gibson Headers, True Dual Exhaust, Hypertech Hyperpac Programmer. I am aware of the supercharger route but I am not wanting to spend that type of money right now. I would love to put nitrous in my truck but I am kinda scared because of previous experience(blew a motor). I still owe lots of money on my truck and don't want to have to dump a bunch of money to fix the engine. Any Suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Rear end gearing can make a large difference in acceleration. Depending on what you have now, perhaps a set of 4.10s? Most half tons come with 3.08 to 3.42 gears.

cbsierra06 · November 22, 2007

I am trying to find more mods I can put on my 2006 Sierra with 5.3. I currently have K&N Intake, Gibson Headers, True Dual Exhaust, Hypertech Hyperpac Programmer. I am aware of the supercharger route but I am not wanting to spend that type of money right now. I would love to put nitrous in my truck but I am kinda scared because of previous experience(blew a motor). I still owe lots of money on my truck and don't want to have to dump a bunch of money to fix the engine. Any Suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Rear end gearing can make a large difference in acceleration. Depending on what you have now, perhaps a set of 4.10s? Most half tons come with 3.08 to 3.42 gears.

I hate to sound like a dumbass but I am just new to truck modifications. Where and how would I go about getting that done? How much would it cost?

Schmids5.3l · November 22, 2007

First find out what gears you have stock! Do you have the tow package???

Cams are excellent bang for the buck. A cam and tune combo will take .7 off your 1/4 time, and thats with a mild cam. For example when I get my truck tuned it should be in the 14.3 range, and I ran 14.9-15.0 before the cam. Total cost is around $550~ depending if you reuse your gaskets or not. All gaskets on these motors are reusable minus the head gaskets. I got new ones for insurance. Besides Cams torque converters are also excellent bang for the buck. Cost around $600, can drop .4 off at least, and the RPM's drop less between shifts. The proper cam and converter combo can take off a full second easily in the 1/4 with the right tuning and set up, and thats with a mild cam.

Above quotes are given you do the work yourself.

Zembonez · November 22, 2007

I hate to sound like a dumbass but I am just new to truck modifications. Where and how would I go about getting that done? How much would it cost?

No biggie. We all have to start somewhere. A reputable salvage yard could probably locate a complete rear axle assembly. Probably the easiest way to do it. While you're at it, have them find one with a locking differential. Go look at car-part.com for a local company. There are some very good salvage companies around.

Zembonez · November 22, 2007

For some reason my posts are duplicating...

xsports33 · November 22, 2007

Cam w/torque converter is probably the best bang for buck as said above. You could also get a 160 or 180 thermostat, you'll need to tune for it though. Underdrive Pulleys or free flowing heads. For the transmission you could install a corvetter servo, shift kit, and oversized cooler.

FREAKENHYE · November 22, 2007

Ok heres the list.

Cams, once you do this mind as well get the heads ported with a mild valve train and mill the heads to raise the comp to 10.1 or 10.5

Gears 3.73 or 4.10's

port intake manifold

Nice tune that goes with everygrades you have.

With all this we are looking at an increase of about 80hp to the wheels.

michigansilver03 · November 22, 2007

A 75 pound shot of nitrous, should be OK. If you go 100 and up that may cause stress of thing.

Grip72 · November 22, 2007

i'm a newb too

but what's so great about 4:10's?

i have them

FREAKENHYE · November 22, 2007

i'm a newb too

but what's so great about 4:10's?

i have them

Acceleration. Taller gears mean faster Acceleration. But bad mpg.

Jameson · November 23, 2007

lose the Hypercrap and get a custom Tune.

cbsierra06 · November 23, 2007

Thank you everyone for all the info it is greatly appreciated. I have some things to look into now.

CrewCab53 · November 27, 2007

ok let me try to do a quick review.

gears are great.. do it all at once and get a locker diff. like eaton or detriot tru track. 373s are fine.. 410s are better unless u do a lot of hw driving then ur mpg will go way down.

transmission- are 4l60e sucks.. straight up. start saving for a built one.. bc with enough power they will go out.. until then for cheap insurance get a vette servo,shift kit, and oil cooler. servo is 20 bucks, shift kit is 80, and oil coolers are about 80 or so.. maybe 100. anything to reduce the heat. dont beat on a stock tranny too much..

cam-a mild cam is nice but eventually ur gonna want a bigger one. the bigger the cam the bigger ur stall. i.e. tr 220 u would need maybe a 3200 stall, with a smaller cam a trailblazer ss stall is good enough.. im still learning about cams but they rock. i cant wait to get mine..

remeber u lose a s**t load of bottom end tq with a decent size cam but gain it back in mid range and top end. also with a cam get harden pushrods and springs.

tune- best thing is a dyno tune or a live street tune, next best is a mail order from wheatley or nelson. w4m is just a little better than a hand held.. i have one i know..

headers.. shortys do nothing.. u need long tubes to get the full scavenging affect..

t stats- they dont matter unless ur going force induction.

e fans- u dont need them bc they have e fans already after 04s.

pulleys- few hps.

driveshaft- will break if u take it up to 130mph.. needs to be upgraded if u go on a dyno.

heads- milling a little is good(raises compression) and maybe just port the stock ones and the intake manifold. raising the compression means u have to use higher octane.

nitrous- get a tb spacer and put the wet shot in there, u will be alright with a 75 shot.. timing might not have to be retarted too much if any and make sure u get a window switch tune for the nitrous.. which means it goes on and goes off at a certain rpm it will save the tranny a lot of stress..

lq9 block- u can drop an lq9 or lq4 6.0 lq9 is better because of higher compression.. they have a little more hp but a ton more tq than the 5.3.

i kno im missing some stuff.. and ur tranny will break.. look into performabuilt or finish line transmission..

hope this helps.

Schmids5.3l · November 27, 2007

Pretty much. I'm gonna do a few edits, but your off to a really good start

Drive shaft won't break at 130, I know I've had mine past 130..Safe? maybe maybe not..my drive shaft isn't very long, whether that has anything to do with it, (I'd imagine it does) I don't know.

Tstats are good when you tune for them, with electric fans you can tune them to come on at cooler temps to have an overall cooler engine. With a cooler T stat you'll have cooler combustion chambers which helps deter pre-detonation, with a right tune you can run more timing.

You can mill the heads to achieve 11:1 compression and still run pump gas, but have a GOOD tune, I recommend a scanning device to monitor. raising the compression 1 full point is good for 10%~ more HP on a stock-ish engine, it's a "might as well" for the price ($70+) I think you have to mill the heads around .050 to get 1 full point. On my motor that would be around 10.5:1 compression vs 9.5 on the stock 62cc heads.

Wait4me's are good for what they are - $158. I'd rather spend that on a W4M and get good results than $400-$500 on a hand held and get minimal results. Dyno or street tune for maximum results. I should be running AT LEAST 14.4's with a dyno tune. Plus they are only around $300 bucks!!!

Cam - don't go too big. People have had better HP gains with my cam VS a Thunder racing 224*. Bigger isn't always better. The TR220 is an excellent cam, and matched with a 3000+ rpm stall should kill some serious time in the 1/4 mile, probably a full second.

Pullies do = few HP, for the money theres MUCH better out there.

I wish everyone on here had the same thought process as you. Sometimes people don't even want to hear that shorty headers don't make much of any power, when in fact it's only the god honest truth they don't..hell long tubes don't even net too much on a stock motor, but with the more mods you do the more beneficial they are. IE LT's on a stock 5.3 might gain 10whp, LT's on a cammed 5.3 might add 16whp ect. Oh well not my money