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Best performance products for 07 Duramax


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Just got my 2007 2500HD GMC crew cab. I need advive on what to put on the truck first. I have been lookin at a AFE intake and also the Volant proguard 7 which is better also what should these go for I know the AFE pro is expensive is it worth it. Also exaust I am looking at a MBRP off road XP should I go turbo back or cat back I dont really want duals and everyone is telling me 4" not 5" why is that. I dont want it to be load but I want the best performance. does anyone have any othe exaust sugestions also what is the going rates for the non stainless models for crew cab? any last the programer I am looking at the edge attitude with the A2 is the the best for the Duramax? I have heard so many differnt opinions and I am totally lost at this point. I am machanicaly inclined should I have this stuff installed or diy how hard is the programers to install? and of course what is the going rates on the Edge attitude and A2. Any sugestions and help will greatly be appreicated my truck is a daily driver and I really want to get better milage and the performace is a plus I want to do the intake the exaust and the programer.

 

Thank you

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  • 3 months later...

The first thing I did was improve the oil filtering system. I want to protect my investment. I just ordered the Cognito motorsports idler and pitman arm braces and EGR blocker plate from Kennedy Diesel. I'm going to add a Pre-OEM fuel filter after that, then lastly a Corsa 4" Cat back exaust system. Between the EGR plate and the exaust, that will put my truck to over 400HP which is plenty for me. :thumbs:

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  • 1 month later...

I'm a bit new to Duramax engines myself, I've had too many Powerchokes, and still own 2 Cummins trucks so I've got a little input for you (please take all of this with a grain of salt as all my experience has not been on Duramax engines).

 

I afraid I can't help ya with the intake questions, but I can toss in my .02 on the exhaust questions. From past experience on Powerchokes and Cummins motors, the turbo-back exhaust systems will give you a bit more flow. The downpipe from the turbo is usually slightly undersized, but I haven't had any experience with diesel exhaust systems that have catalytics in them so the most restrictive point might not be the downpipe. As for the size arguement... I only have 4" pipes on ALL of my diesels (including a CAT 3208, an Int. DT466, and 2 Cummins 5.9Ls), The only one of those that I'm even CONSIDERING going to a bigger pipe is the 3208. If you want the look of a big pipe, put a 5" tip on the last 2 feet of it. In my opinion you don't need the 5" pipe until you start getting REALLY wild with the motor.

 

I'd be interested to know what I should do with my '01 (from people that actually have the same motor/performance add-ons). The only thing I've done thus far was drop a K&N air filter into the stock airbox. I'd rather start with some of the 'preventative measures' before I go looking for more power... the stock D-max already makes my Cummins feel like a go-cart. :chevrolet:

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  • 1 month later...

Go with the Diablo sport predator and a 4in. turbo back mbrp ss exhaust, it works great and your truck will really go after that. Hope you like black smoke cause you'll get quiet a bit of it with out a cat.

BTW if you get a programer, dont go above 75 hp. with out a built trans.

And you can do every thing your self with a set of wrenches, and some common sense, plus with the predator all you have to do is plug it into the diagnostic port and it will take you through step by step.

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Just changed to Transynd fluid and deep pan for the transmission, and drained transfercase and put in 2 1/2 quarts of castrol 5w-30 synthetic motor oil. The atf has been known to vaporize causing tc failures do to low or no fluid. The oil has a higher flashpoint and better lubricating qualities. Added the cognito braces a couple of months ago and it made a difference in the firmness of the front end. next is the Transfercase "pump rub" fix from Kennedy's.

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  • 1 month later...

do any of the company actually make a programmer for the diesel with the particulate filter? i didn't think they did because the EGT would get too high. exhuast just get a cat back system for the one diesel power magazine i have they dinoed a truck with both turbo and cat back, the turbo back only gave a few horsepower difference and it was so high in the rpm band you wouldn't notice it over the catback.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The general concensus from the experts (not me) is the air systems do little or nothing on LBZ's and later. Exhausts are good for lowering EGT's and little else. Programmers are anywhere from good (Superchips, Hypertech) to unbelievable (EFI Live, PPE). Just be careful of the transmission, too much power (400rwh+) will cause limping of the tranny and a slow or not so slow death. Save the tranny by not allowing shifts to happen into overdrive at WOT, and also not rolling into WOT while in OD. Many people say the six speed is tougher thant the older 5 speed Ally, and the six speed with the Transgo Jr kit is good to 450-500rwh.

 

Hope this helps.

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  • 1 month later...

If you want to do a handheld programmer, go with the Quadzilla Stealth 2, hands down. They have a program for the DPF filter, also you can download a non-DPF program for when you decide to get rid of that thing. Quadzilla's customer service is wonderful and you get free downloadable updates. I have sold a couple of them and am getting ready to install one on my truck and totally delete the DPF by using a LBZ turbo-back exhaust. As far as exhaust, you can do the MBRP DPF-back. It totally deletes the muffler, but does not change the sound at all. Truck feels slightly snappier, but no louder. At least it is something to get rid of the bazooka on the back. As far as intakes, save your money for now and invest in a programmer. Keep in mind, the higher levels of HP in any programmer for the LMM will plug up the DPF fast! The truck will go into regeneration mode 2-4 times a tank instead of the normal once per tank. Let me know if you have any more questions.

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  • 1 month later...
If you want to do a handheld programmer, go with the Quadzilla Stealth 2, hands down. They have a program for the DPF filter, also you can download a non-DPF program for when you decide to get rid of that thing. Quadzilla's customer service is wonderful and you get free downloadable updates. I have sold a couple of them and am getting ready to install one on my truck and totally delete the DPF by using a LBZ turbo-back exhaust. As far as exhaust, you can do the MBRP DPF-back. It totally deletes the muffler, but does not change the sound at all. Truck feels slightly snappier, but no louder. At least it is something to get rid of the bazooka on the back. As far as intakes, save your money for now and invest in a programmer. Keep in mind, the higher levels of HP in any programmer for the LMM will plug up the DPF fast! The truck will go into regeneration mode 2-4 times a tank instead of the normal once per tank. Let me know if you have any more questions.

 

 

What is "regeneration mode?"

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Regeneration mode is what the truck does when cleaning out the DPF. You won't see a light or any notification at all. The truck will smell like hot metal when you shut it off or when you are driving and come to a stop you will notice that the RPM's are about 200 rpm higher than normal. You will also notice a significant drop in instant fuel economy while it's regenerating. The truck supposedly injects fuel into the cylinder during the exhaust valve opening cycle, this creates a 1000-1200 degree blast of heat that cleans out the DPF filter. They say to drive the truck for 20 minutes at 30mph or greater to complete this cycle. This is pretty much not always possible for me, so the truck regenerates a little longer than it should. Mine wil regenerate at least once per tank, not always at the same location on the fuel gauge. Some guys say there's does it every 2-3 tanks, personally, I think that they just don't notice it.

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