My transfer case is junk

Shaners · February 8, 2002

I'm still going to be driving the '02 F150 (the loaner) for a few more days. I talked to the dealer and the transfer case has to be removed and disassembled in my '01 2500HD. I had 3100 miles on it when I took it in for service.

They don't know what is wrong other than it engages very abruptly and sends a tremendous jolt through the whole chassis. It is OK at a stop, but as speed increases it gets worse (shifting on "the fly"). 2wd is OK and 4wd is OK but it just engages rough...

I'm pushing for a new T-case, but the service mgr has to have the other one apart first to see what is wrong. I told them this truck cost over $37K and only has 3k miles on it and I don't want a rebuilt T-case installed. They said GM makes the final decision once mine is disected....

antig24 · February 8, 2002

that stinks, i hope they get it fixed soon

Shaners · February 8, 2002

that stinks, i hope they get it fixed soon

They said they would start tearing it apart this afternoon and they would know more by Monday. Even if they can fix it, I figure it'll be Wed. at the earliest before I get it back... ???

Larry · February 8, 2002

Got to love those fancy electric transfercases.

Wait until it breaks when it is out of warranty then you will defiantly wish you had passed on that girly push button option.

Shaners · February 8, 2002

Got to love those fancy electric transfercases.

Wait until it breaks when it is out of warranty then you will defiantly wish you had passed on that girly push button option.

They're all electronic Larry. The lever is the same as the button. The lever actuates the similar electronics just like the button.

Unless you go back a decade and a half you won't find a truely manual 4x4 system...

Larry · February 8, 2002

They're all electronic Larry. The lever is the same as the button. The lever actuates the similar electronics just like the button.

Unless you go back a decade and a half you won't find a truely manual 4x4 system...

Shaners,

Is that so? Can you prove that to me??

Don’t try to baffle me with your bull####. I worked at Chevrolet Technical Assistance in Michigan for 2 years helping dealers diagnose this crap over the phone…now I do it in the field but on bigger vehicles. Where ever you got the notion that the manual shift transfercase is actually electric is way off base. Granted all GM 4x4’s use an electric front axle disconnect, the manual shift case is shifted just as transfercases have been shifted for over 60 years. You may want to do research before you post something like that especially if your are suppose to be one of the respected straw bosses of this forum. Your post just goes to show how much erroneous information is pass along in these forums by people that have absolutely no experience but think they know everything.

Shaners · February 8, 2002

Larry,

I'm sorry if I offended you. Maybe I'm not 100% correct. I'm a big man and I thank you for correcting me.

I know that the front diff is electronic in all the new trucks.

Maybe since you seem to know the workings of the transfer case then you can tell me what is wtong with mine and why it wouldn't be the same with the lever shift case?

Wouldn't the only difference be that I have a servo do the work for me instead of my arm?

Then why when I push the button on the dash does the impact hit so hard it makes the CD almost skip??? Wouldn't it be the same with the lever, if I could in fact pull it in???

Something appears to be way out of mesh. The case engages but it hits hard... I want some info to go bacvk to the dealer with as to why I don't want mine rebuilt and rather replaced!!!

Like I said earlier there is 3100 miles on this $37500 truck!!!

Thanks

Larry · February 8, 2002

Maybe since you seem to know the workings of the transfer case then you can tell me what is wtong with mine and why it wouldn't be the same with the lever shift case?

Wouldn't the only difference be that I have a servo do the work for me instead of my arm?

Then why when I push the button on the dash does the impact hit so hard it makes the CD almost skip??? Wouldn't it be the same with the lever, if I could in fact pull it in???

Something appears to be way out of mesh. The case engages but it hits hard... I want some info to go bacvk to the dealer with as to why I don't want mine rebuilt and rather replaced!!!

Ok, I’ll take a stab…To be quite honest, your problem may very well not be internal in the transfercase. The internals of the electric and manual cases on the HD’s are very similar except the in the range fork area and both are darn near bullet proof. Autotrac in the LD is a totally different monkey.

Most likely you have an encoder motor that when shifted into 4hi is parking the range fork in a position that is also trying to allowing 4lo position. Basically, you could be getting rear wheels in 4hi and front in 4lo, or visa versa, for a partial revolution (split second) until the incorrect gear meash bangs the range fork into the correct position, or until it starts breaking planetary teeth, which would account for the jolt your are feeling. This could be due to a problem in the encoder motor or out of time selector shaft. This was a common problem on the NV243 years ago. The 262 in your rig works basically the same way. I suppose it is possible the problem could be internal but unlikely. Chances are if the dealer replaces the transfercase and reuses your old encoder motor the problem will still persist. Have they mentioned if they have contacted GM TAC?

Shaners · February 8, 2002

Larry,

they said they were going to start removing the transfer case about 3:30 this afternoon to take a look at it. They said once the case is out and apart that the service mgr would look at it and contact (whom I believe) is the tech assistance Center or GM.

I am very familiar with shift forks in motorcycles and that is a great possabillity that it is throwing it too far.

Now that the t-case has taken several beatings from being engaged at speeds up to 60 mph, I would cetainly think that there could be internal damage!!! (although 4x4 is not making any noise once engaged) Is that a correct assumption?

And what about the rest of the drivetrain??? Should I have them check it out too?? Things like front and rear diffs, and the U-joints and maybe the trans? (although 4x4 is not making any noise once engaged)

More than likely I would have a bent shift fork and some chipped teeth by now.... especially after the guys at the garage have had the truck for 2 days on dry roads!!!

I have never had a t-case laying in pieces in front of me, but it sounds similar to a bike trans which I've dealt with...

Should I push harder for a whole new unit?

Larry · February 8, 2002

Now that the t-case has taken several beatings from being engaged at speeds up to 60 mph, I would cetainly think that there could be internal damage!!! (although 4x4 is not making any noise once engaged) Is that a correct assumption?

There is a chance of some carnage in the case by now if what I suspect is wrong is what they actually find. You would be surprised by the beatings these transfercases can take without sustaining any damage though. Once they get this thing open they will know what casualties they have.

And what about the rest of the drivetrain??? Should I have them check it out too?? Things like front and rear diffs, and the U-joints and maybe the trans? (although 4x4 is not making any noise once engaged)

The HD drivetrain can handle some major punishment but it wouldn’t hurt for them to check the rest of the drivetrain for any possible damage. If anything would be damaged it would be the rear trans mount. You can try to push for a new transfercase but replacement vs rebuild is based on cost and the fear of the GM service reps debit book. Rule of warranty thumb: if the rebuild cost is 75% or greater than replacement cost the replacement will be used. It the part can be rebuilt for less than 75% of a replacement cost they will rebuild it regardless how much you want a new one. If they do decide to replace it, I would defiantly push for a new encoder motor as well. I am not sure if the new HD cases come with the motor attached or not.

Shaners · February 8, 2002

Thankyou Larry

(now I just have to figure out how to pass this info on to the dealer with out pissing him off)

SteveSierra · February 9, 2002

Crap Shane. That blows!

I'm sorry to hear that about your t-case. I guess at least the dealer didn't try to blow it off as normal. I hope they get it fixed right for you and soon! I'm really keeping my fingers crossed for you and me. I think this is my first Chevy that I haven't had back into the dealer for warranty work in the first 5 months of ownership(except for the crossthreaded stud that the tire place probably did but denied it).

To be honest, I'm glad I got pushbutton 4wd. My 95 had a floor shifter and took a good 5-8 seconds to engage in 4hi, if it even engaged on the first try. The difference between 2 seconds and 5 seconds can be not stuck in the mud or stuck in the mud. Been there, done that, don't want to do that again. :blush:

Good luck!

Steve

Shaners · February 9, 2002

Thanks Steve,

I hope it is repaired soon. This is by far the "tightest" truck I have ever owned and I really enjoy it. There isn't even a squeak or rattle in single digit temps...

I definatly wnt to get my HD crewcab back though, and give the F150 back to Enterprise rental car.

I wonder if the GM acccounting dept will even notice the several hundred dollar bill that they have to pay to put me in this F150!!! LOL!!! If I was a GM bean counter, I would certainly have to wonder about this one...

SteveSierra · February 10, 2002

Shane,

They probably won't notice it much, I don't think. Dealers probably have to give out loaner trucks more than we think because of all the contractors and whatnot that depend on a truck for their jobs everyday. Imagine a pipefitter or a plumbing contractor going to the jobsite in a Saturn LS with piping tied to the roof because their truck was getting warranty work done. HAHAHA!!!!!

I got a K&N FIPK yesterday(friggin K&N logo on the intake tube is upside down!), I think it was a worthwhile mod. Opening up the exhaust with the duals, the HPP and now the FIPK woke this pup up quite a bit.

Do you think acetone would get the K&N logo off?? Not that it matters much, but the upside down logo looks um, wrong.

My truck didn't rattle. Now that my amp and a JL 10w3 subwoofer are in, I suspect my rattle free days are over. LOL

Good luck on getting your truck back early this week!

Steve