need some detailed info about leveling Z71

MODDOO · May 10, 2006

Hello 4x4 maniacs

I want to raise the front to be level with the rear.

I understand that the suspension will be nearly fully extended, and will ride like crap. I have cranked the TBs on friends trucks before.

What I need to know is, are the shocks limiting the down travel (hang) of the front tires? It seems so because some have shimmed their shocks to make them reach farther.

So if you shim the shocks, will they be bottomed out when the suspension fully compresses?

Some like to install longer shocks to fix this problem. But these shocks may not allow the suspension to fully compress.

SO,

please let me know if anyone has looked into this closely.

any measurments would be helpful.

Yes I could figure this all out by getting under the truck. but 10,000 heads are better than 1. I would appreciate any experiance passed on.

Thanks

-new 4x4 owner

Meatywand · May 10, 2006

I would order the Rough Country 2inch lift kit, and then consult a local shop about shock fitment, nothing beats actually being able to talk to someone in person about what you want to do

asilverblazer · May 10, 2006

I have leveled my truck with out the need for longer shocks. Chances are you can get your truck level or very close to it without the need of a kit. Shimming the existing shocks could cause them to bottom out on compression, I haven't had an issue of over extending or compressing the shocks, but I didn't go wrench crazy on the adjuster bolts either.

sc4808 · May 10, 2006

Don't get confused by longer shocks and longer travel shocks, you can purchase shocks that are 2" longer but have 2" more travel so you do not bottom out.

One thing that is important is that when GM designed the suspension, the bump stops act as part of the suspension, did you notice how close to the stops your truck sits at stock level, when you crank the bars and don't lower the bump stops you can get a mushy ride and if you go two far the ride will get harsh.

The spring rate does not increase by crankin the bars, just your leverage on the bars. When at stock level, your bottom a-arm is almost parrallel to the ground, when lifted, it is on a downward angle, giving less leverage and the feel of a stiffer ride.

And don't forget that the stock CV Axles are not designed to work at a steeper angle of deflection, so they will wear out quicker, along with the unit bearings.

I am speaking from experience.

jackster06Z71 · May 11, 2006

i cranked up the TB on my 06 , rasied it about an inch and a half , rides just as good as before , no problems at all , looks tough

dimebag-1966-2004 · November 4, 2006

i cranked up the TB on my 06 , rasied it about an inch and a half , rides just as good as before , no problems at all , looks tough

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

how many turns did you do on each side

Zee71 · November 4, 2006

Been wondering about the same thing. Everywhere I've searched says "don't torque the TBs." This is one of the comments I've found:

DO NOT F WITH THE TORSION BARS!!!!!!!!!!! I have seen many people do so and it only spells trouble. The direction in which the bar is turned to allow a higher ride height takes away all upward wheel travel. this means when you hit a bump your wheel will not bounce up as it is supposed to, however, you will have that much more downward travel. just from normal bumps like pot holes, speed bumps, and the like; you will break them. im telling you, get a lift spindle, you're looking at about $350.

http://www.twoguysgarage.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2605

Forgive me, I'm new to full size trucks. Only had my Z71 a few weeks. Been working on cars for years though. Just a tad different on this side of the fence.

So when you all crank your bars, is it with the factory cam or with an aftermarket kit like this one for example:

http://www.stillen.com/product_detail.aspx?sku=PAG663000

blk06AV · November 5, 2006

Been wondering about the same thing. Everywhere I've searched says "don't torque the TBs." This is one of the comments I've found:
DO NOT F WITH THE TORSION BARS!!!!!!!!!!! I have seen many people do so and it only spells trouble. The direction in which the bar is turned to allow a higher ride height takes away all upward wheel travel. this means when you hit a bump your wheel will not bounce up as it is supposed to, however, you will have that much more downward travel. just from normal bumps like pot holes, speed bumps, and the like; you will break them. im telling you, get a lift spindle, you're looking at about $350.

http://www.twoguysgarage.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2605

Forgive me, I'm new to full size trucks. Only had my Z71 a few weeks. Been working on cars for years though. Just a tad different on this side of the fence.

So when you all crank your bars, is it with the factory cam or with an aftermarket kit like this one for example:

http://www.stillen.com/product_detail.aspx?sku=PAG663000

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

go to a ford dealer and get the keys for a 150($50) if you have a 1500 or use the gm keys for a 1500 if you have a 2500 for 2 1/2" of lift

Wingnut · November 5, 2006

Been wondering about the same thing. Everywhere I've searched says "don't torque the TBs." This is one of the comments I've found:
DO NOT F WITH THE TORSION BARS!!!!!!!!!!! I have seen many people do so and it only spells trouble. The direction in which the bar is turned to allow a higher ride height takes away all upward wheel travel. this means when you hit a bump your wheel will not bounce up as it is supposed to, however, you will have that much more downward travel. just from normal bumps like pot holes, speed bumps, and the like; you will break them. im telling you, get a lift spindle, you're looking at about $350.

http://www.twoguysgarage.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2605

Forgive me, I'm new to full size trucks. Only had my Z71 a few weeks. Been working on cars for years though. Just a tad different on this side of the fence.

So when you all crank your bars, is it with the factory cam or with an aftermarket kit like this one for example:

http://www.stillen.com/product_detail.aspx?sku=PAG663000

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Every single person I know that has (or like me, had) a Z71 Chevy has cranked the torsion bars with no long-term effects. I bought longer shocks for mine, and it smoothed out the ride (I cranked mine pretty pretty far).

Zee71 · November 6, 2006

Thanks for the info. I need to do this one of these days. Then I need wider tires. Just hate getting rid of the ones on there because they have lots of tread left...

Zee71 · November 6, 2006

One question I still have though is how far can I go before I should replace the shocks with longer ones. Can I get the Ford keys and go say 1" or 1.5" with no issues with the stock Z71/4WD shocks and not too much increased wear on the cv joints? If so that would be ideal. I'd still like to keep just a bit of rake on the front in case I have to carry a load. This way the rear won't squat too far and look silly.

Thanks!

Savage Z-71 · November 25, 2006

Check These guys out

www.cognitomotorsports.com

They make a leveling kit that should work for you.

mdz71 · November 25, 2006

here is another leveling kit. Have not bough this yet but been looking at this kit

asilverblazer · November 27, 2006

You can robably get 1-1.5" of lift using the factory torsion bar keys. Anything more will probably need the Ford keys and that much lift will probably start seeing the wear issues too.