5.3L engine block heater

[beasleyiv]

I have found 12497459 as the possible part number for an engine block heater. The description is:

 

5.3 liter MFI 8 cyl engine, 6.0 liter MFI, HO, V8, iron engine (6.0N), 4.8 liter MFI 8 cyl engine, 8.1 liter MFI 8 cyl engine (496 CID), 5.3 liter flexible fuel (gas/alc) 8 cyl engine with MFI.

 

Notes: t/w gasket 12560438 for vehicles w/LQ4 or LQ9)

 

Can you verify this would work on my 2003 5.3L 1500 4x4?

 

Will I need the gasket?

 

Thanks!!

[GMCStepSide]

Yeah, follow the plug up as it goes by the fuse box...there is where I cut is so that I had plenty of tail under the hood to resplice if there was an issue. It worked for me and I'm a happy camper again. Go for it!

[redbugdave]

Hello ArticJ...I have not used my block heater since taking it into the dealer to figure out what was wrong and fix it, (clear the code). It has not been cold enough down here, lately. I have a 2006 6.0L HD. I still think the temperature guage thing is related in some way and have had no problems since, (the temp guage acted up only when I used the block heater). I think I will get one of those code readers for the truck, since inquiring minds need to know. That was a good idea of cutting off the old plug and leaving a tail to splice back on, just in case. I wish I had thought of that.

 

When the weather gets cold enough, (teens), I will plug it in and try it for a couple cycles and report in. By the way, a couple of my plum trees are in full bloom down here, and the daffodiles are poking up with this weather. Has the groundhog seen his shadow...or is it too soon?

[ArcticJ]

Hello ArticJ...I have not used my block heater since taking it into the dealer to figure out what was wrong and fix it, (clear the code). It has not been cold enough down here, lately. I have a 2006 6.0L HD. I still think the temperature  guage thing is related in some way and have had no problems since, (the temp guage acted up only when I used the block heater).  I think I will get one of those code readers for the truck, since  inquiring minds need to know. That was a good idea of cutting off the old plug and leaving a tail to splice back on, just in case.  I wish I had thought of that.

 

When the weather gets cold enough, (teens), I will plug it in and try it for a couple cycles and report in.  By the way, a couple of my plum trees are in full bloom down here, and the daffodiles are poking up with this weather. Has the groundhog seen his shadow...or is it too soon?

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

Hey redbugdave...

 

I really appreciate your info and everyone else on this page...it's been extremely helpful.

 

I'm just about ready to get that plug off and I will definitely leave enough to re-attach...

 

No flowers here in chicago...were on our way to the great white north in a couple of days and it would be great if i could get this plug on and do a little test up there...the temps at night have been around 5-15 degrees...we'll see

 

Thanks again to everyone for the info...keep it coming please

[ArcticJ]

OK...new plug is on, but it hasn't been cold enough to run it...its only getting in the mid to high 20's...

 

Whats the update with the other cutters

 

problems...codes?

[MS3DALE]

I still haven't gotten my new cord back yet,and like you said it hasn't been very cold here anyway (High 20s-Low 30s)

[GMCStepSide]

Currently -21 degrees outside at 6:30 p.m.

 

When I got up this morning it was -24 and we never saw it go above -8. I had it plugged in ALL NIGHT LONG and never got a code, light or even a whimper. I started it this morning and everything performed as normal. Granted, I'm on the other end of the spectrum in that the thermo plug is supposed to pass electricity to the block heater when it's below zero thus it should be functioning as GM intended at this point. However, the real test will be when it's 10 degrees out and I use the timer for four hours. I was doing this before the cold snap hit, and had it working between 5 degree nights and 20 degree nights, and never had a problem.

 

No problem since I cut it off - at all. And my service manager told me on Monday that he's been recommending it to those who will use a timer. However, he said he was waiting for the first truck to come in with a fella who cut it off and left it plugged in overnight at 30 degrees. At these temps, it will be a while before he sees him.....

[fossil]

Why not just leave the block heater cord the way it was intended. Put on an oil pan heater pad and tie it into the system. Now when you're plugged in your engine oil will be nice and warm and when it gets really cold your block heater will kick in and you wont set off any codes. One thing with a block heater is that the block stays warm but when it gets really cold the oil in the oil pan stays thick as the heat doesnt make it to the pan.

[seneffna]

Thanks to everyone for all the info and effort. I have figured out they way to bypass the thermostat in the end of the factory plug. This being my first post I don't know the best way to display pictures but I will try to describe the process as best I can. If interested I can email the pictures. [email protected]

 

In short I have found that removing the black hard plastic cap (tumor) reveals the temperature sensor. The cap comes off easily with a pair of plyers. The temp sensor is a silver disc that somehow expands at 0degrees to close the pair of contacts underneath it. At first glance it looks like a watch battery. The temp sensor comes out easily with plyers as well which reveals the two contacts which just need to be shorted together. Don't try to remove anything else as you will damage the rest of it in the process as my pictures prove. The tumor cap should go back on to keep things protected. This doesn't fix the fact that you may get diagnostic errors sometime but at least we can bypass the temp switch while leaving your factory plug looking stock. BTW replacement cords can be purchased from your dealer $45 (buying the heater kit is cheaper though $32) and the <04 replacement cord does not fit the heater connector for the 05 and up.

[ArcticJ]

Hey cold weather lovers...missed you for awhile...(been working nights)

 

I hate to revive what appears to be a dead post, but whats the deal with the heaters? Those that have cut, did you get any (additional) codes or problems (temp gauge? etc.) Are the heaters working? Are the codes coming on if the cut heater is used above...say 20?

 

I cut one of my trucks plugs, used it in N. WI. when the temps were in the single digits and ultimately -25 one morning. Obviously the stock plug would have worked on that particular day, but on the mornings above 0, I plugged the truck in for a couple of hours before driving on two occassions (once up, I rarely move around until leaving for IL.) I had no problems...truck started nicely, no warning lights came on and everyone was happy.

 

Those that have not cut, are you accepting the heater for what it is, useless unless in extreme temps? Has anyone tried that last mod? Problems?

 

again, I hate to reopen but I just gotta know whats happening out there...

 

Thank you

 

Thanks

[GMCStepSide]

Still no problems with mine and I've plugged it in at -25 as well as 15 degrees and never a problem. As you know, I cut the plug off and replaced it....everything still works fantastic.

[redbugdave]

Hello ArticJ and the block heater gang,

 

I have also been wondering about the block heater issue. For me, I have not used mine since I originally had the problem...2 or 3 months ago. It's been a really warm winter down here and the low temperatures have been in the 20s and 30s. A conspiracy theory...I suspect GM had this global warming thing in mind to keep us from using our block heaters... Seriously though, this issue is not dead for me, and I have been occasionally checking this topic for further developments, like you.

 

Also, a reply to Neil...about taking the tumor cap off and pulling the thermostat from inside, reconnecting and putting the cap back on. That's ingenious! I did not even think of doing that...I just wanted that durn cancerous thermostat plug off! I sure wished Neil would have posted before I cut mine off! Ohhh well.

 

If we don't get cold weather, then we need to revive this topic NEXT winter!

[Jerther]

Just a thought from another forum...the combination of metal (block heater) and aluminum (block) causes corrosion when electicity is introduced via the heater...therefore, GM lowered the operable temperature thus greatly reducing the use of the heater and as a result, greatly reduced the potential problems from the corrosion issue...

 

I have doubts about this... First, isn't the heater element insulated? I don't believe that there is current flowing from the heater to the block.

 

Here's the theory:

---------------------

 

The phenomena explained in the quote is called Electrolysis. It does happen when there is current flowing in an electrolyte (here, the coolant) between two electrods (heater and block).

 

Let's assume the heater is not insulated. Then, electrolysis should occure. The result of electrolysis of electrolytes depends on its nature. I don'T know for the coolant, but as for water... Electrolysis of water tipicaly generates O2 and H2 (Oxygene and hydrogene). On a DC circuit, the anode (+ electrod) gets oxidized because of the formation of O2 there, and because the metal is disolving. Add some salt to the water and Cl will be produced there, and Cl is VERY corrosive.

 

As for the cathode (- lead) Hydrogene is produced there.

 

------------------

 

So, IIIIFFFFF there is current flowing... we have a rusting block, a rusting heater (both because the heater is powered with AC) and a highly explosive gas produced inside the engine... Either H2 alone, or O2H2 which is the PERFECT match for perfect combustion.

 

And by the way, in electrolysis, whatever metal is used for the + lead, it WILL corode/disolve. Ever seen rusted stainless stell? I did. ;)

 

So I really don't believe in current flowing between the heater and block.

 

And another thing, it would really be stupid to allow the block to get voltage from the heater... You could touch your truck and get electrocuted... This is non sens.

[different_seasons]

bumping this thread for our snow dwellers.

[ArcticJ]

Hello once again my cold weather friends...

 

I too am curious about the cutters and thermostat modifiers out there...problems? codes?

 

I started to get a code this year p0116 for the first time. The plug was in for about 3 hours with the temp about 4 degrees F.

 

I mentioned on another post/reply that I can't find now that I read somewhere that GM issued a software update for diesels to eliminate/reduce the codes thrown from the heater being used above 0. The update was issued around march or april...this won't due most of any good with gassers I know, but hey...

 

Stay in touch all

[MS3DALE]

Heres the bulletin your talking about..........

 

 

Subject: LBZ, LB7, LLY, Service Engine Soon (SES) Light Illuminated, DTC P0116, P0181 Set with Engine Coolant Heater Usage in Ambient Temps Above -18 Degrees C (0 Degrees F) (Replace Engine Coolant Heater Cord #06-06-04-027 - (04/27/2006)

 

 

 

Models:

 

2001-2006 Chevrolet Silverado

 

2006 Chevrolet Express Vans

 

2001-2006 GMC Sierra

 

2006 GMC Savana Vans

 

with 6.6L Duramax™ Diesel V8 Engine (VINs D, 1, 2 -- RPOs LBZ, LB7, LLY)

 

 

Condition

Some customers may comment on a Duramax™ Diesel vehicle with a Service Engine Soon (SES) light illuminated on the instrument cluster. Some vehicles may have been previously serviced for this same condition. Technicians may also find the following DTCs set with no concern found.

 

• DTC P0116: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Performance

 

• DTC P0181: Fuel Temperature Sensor Performance

 

Cause

The Fuel Temperature Sensor, Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT), and Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensors are compared to each other during a cold start to identify a concern with any one of the sensors. Engine coolant heater usage in ambient temperatures above -18°C (0° F) may trigger a false DTC P0116 or P0181.

 

Correction

The diesel supplement to the Owner’s Manual advises that the engine coolant heater may be used below -18°C (0°F) to assist with cold starts. However, a customer may wish to plug in the heater when the overnight temperatures are unknown. A thermostatically controlled engine coolant heater cord is available for the prevention of false DTCs. This cord incorporates a thermostatic switch that only conducts below -18°C (0°F).

 

Follow the steps below for the particular model year vehicle you are working on to ensure that the correct diagnostics are performed before replacing the engine coolant heater cord.

 

2001-2002 Vehicles

Verify that the updated calibration per Corporate Bulletin Number 02-06-04-058 has been installed.

Follow the published diagnostics in SI.

If no concern is found, determine if the customer is using the engine coolant heater above -18°C (0°F).

If the customer is using the engine coolant heater in ambient temperatures above -18°C (0°F), then replace the original coolant heater cord with the thermostatically controlled engine coolant heater cord, GM P/N 10369173.

2003-2006 Vehicles

Verify that the latest calibration has been installed.

Follow the published diagnostics in SI.

If no concern is found, determine if the customer is using the engine coolant heater above -18°C (0°F).

If the customer is using the engine coolant heater in ambient temperatures above -18°C (0°F), then replace the original coolant heater cord with the thermostatically controlled engine coolant heater cord, P/N 10369173.

Parts Information

Part Number

Description

 

10369173

Cord, Engine Coolant Heater

 

 

Warranty Information

For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

 

Labor Operation

Description

Labor Time

 

J3523

Cord, Engine Coolant Heater - Replace

0.5 hr

 

 

 

 

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

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