1996 A/C

96 Vortec · May 4, 2005

At the end of last summer my a/c sprung a leak at the compressor. My father in law (a/c certified) and I purchased a new compressor, accumulator/dryer and orafice tube. While trying to change the accumulator, the nut on the hard line from the evaporator was siezed and without realizing it, we twisted and split the hard line. I just left it for the remainder of the year since it wasn't too hot of a summer.

Now it is time to fix everything in prep for this summer. I need to know about that hard line that we ruined. I plan to replace everything listed above in addition to the evaporator. I read in my Chilton's that the dash and the heater core need to be removed. That brings me to my question. Anyone ever remove the dash on a 96-99 C/K? Any tips, tricks or advice?

Is the hard line between the accumulator and the evaporator part of the evaporator or is it sold seperatly?

After everything is installed my father in law will be evacuating the system and charging it for me.

99-2door · May 5, 2005

The 2 fittings that stick thru the firewall are actually the evaporator core.

You MUST use a back up wrench to avoid twisting them. (Too late for this, I know)

You will have to remove the dash and the AC box from the truck to change the evap core.

1. Take the trim plate below the steering column off. Several 7mm screws and the rest clips in. Pull straight out. Pull the hose off the vent. You have to remove the handle from the park-brake cable to get it out (push the two tabs in and the handle comes off, then after you remove the panel twist the back to release the cable)

2. Remove the 2 black metal plates from below the steering column. 4, 10mm screws and 2, 7mm screws.

3. Remove the steering column. Disconnect the transmission linkage (auto) then there is a 7mm screw that holds the electrical connector in place. Remove it then unscrew the connector itself (7mm also). Now there is a yellow airbag connector you need to unplug (good idea to remove the airbag fuse before messing with any airbag connections). Now take the 15mm steering shaft bolt out of the end of the column. Before you disconnect the shaft fully, lock the steering column by placing the key in the off position (prevents the wheel from freely turning and damaging the airbag coil). 4, 15mm nuts and the column is free to remove.

3. Remove the front screw on each sill plate to free the kick planels. Once the sillplates are loose you can rmove the kick panels, which clip in, by pulling towards the inside of the truck.

4. Now for the bolts holding the dash. First remove the 3, 7mm screws along the top edge in the defrost vent opening. Next there is another 7mm screw near the bottom center of the dash. It holds the metal crossbar to the plate that comes from the column support. THIS IS THE MOST OVERLOOKED SCREW ON THIS JOB!!. IF the truck is a 97-up it will have 2, 13mm bolts behind the glovebox, underneath the airbag housing pointed up into the black metal bracket (You don't have to remove these bolts completely to lower the dash, but you will never get it back into position without taking them completely out). Last 2 bolts, 13mm, are at the ends of the dash on the bottom at the kick panels. They point up into the dash support. Hold the dash up when you take these out, becuase they are the last thing holding it up.

4. Now the dash should swing freely towards the seat, pivoting on the studs near where you removed the last bolts. If it doesn't come down easily check that you removed all the screws I mentioned. Sometimes the bracket that fits over the steering column mount screwd needs pryed out to make it let go also.

5. Now that you have the dash hinged down, you can disconnect the electrical connectors. There are several but you should be able to see them all. Now you will have to remove the firewall pass thru connector from the outside. It has a 7mm bolt that hols the connector. Loosen it then pull the plug out. Now the inside part has 2, 7mm screws holding it on. There are several connectors to disconnect, then pull all the wires into the inside. Now disconnect the park-brake cable from the pedal assembly and discoonect the antennae lead. Then you can lift up on the dash and remove it from the vehicle.

6. Several 10mm bolts in the engine compartment and one 10mm nut on the inside hold the HVAC box in place. If you have already disconnecsted your heater hoses and AC lines you should be able to remove the box.

Once you remove the box from the truck its pretty appearant how to get to the evap core. Just go in from the bottom and take out the heater core first.

96 Vortec · May 5, 2005

3. Remove the steering column. Disconnect the transmission linkage (auto) then there is a 7mm screw that holds the electrical connector in place. Remove it then unscrew the connector itself (7mm also). Now there is a yellow airbag connector you need to unplug (good idea to remove the airbag fuse before messing with any airbag connections). Now take the 15mm steering shaft bolt out of the end of the column. Before you disconnect the shaft fully, lock the steering column by placing the key in the off position (prevents the wheel from freely turning and damaging the airbag coil). 4, 15mm nuts and the column is free to remove.

Wow! That is more specific information than I had expected. Thank you very much. It sounds like you might have done this once or twice. Is there any chance that you have pictures of a dash removal? Specifically step 3 which is quoted above.

This is the only step that worries me. To get to the transmission linkage, do I first need to remove the box that surrounds the steering column between the dash and steering wheel? Once uncovered, will the 15mm steering shaft bolt be visible? I guess because I haven't seen what you are talking about, I'm having a hard time understanding exactly what I'm supposed to be doing. Or is this a case of once I get started it will all be pretty clear?

99-2door · May 5, 2005

You don't have to remove the grey plastic around the column. You can take the column out without disturbing that. Once you remove those black metal plates in step 2, you while be able to see the transmission shift cable. IT has a white end that is attached to the shifter. It just pops off, then the cable has a little metal clip that slides out and then you squeeze the tabs together. You will see what I mean once you look at it.

Next one of these dashes I take out, I'll take some pics and write up a step by step procedure. Might be good for the FAQ section.

96 Vortec · May 5, 2005

I'm taking mine out this weekend. I'll take a bunch of pics and ask a bunch of questions I'm sure.

96 Vortec · May 9, 2005

This weekend I tore into my truck. The only thing that kept me from removing the dash was the steering column. I removed the four 15mm nuts holding it in. After that is where I became stuck.

Do I need to unbolt the steering arm somewhere between the steering wheel and the gear box? I can only find two possible places to do so. The first was a bold in the column just inside the cab next to the firewall. The second was a bolt just under the power brake booster.

Also, since I'm going to be removing the air box, do I need to get something to re-seal it to the firewall?

99-2door · May 10, 2005

The box isn't actually sealed to the firewall it just bolts against it.

Take bolt out of the end of the column inside.

96 Vortec · May 10, 2005

The bolt one the column just inside the firewall, does it just hold the two shafts together? Are they splined or is it the bolt that lines them back up?

99-2door · May 19, 2005

The 2 sides of the shaft are flat, but there are no splines. The bolt just holds the shaft in place no actual load. Make sure you put it back pretty tight though.