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Jumping Fuel Gauge, Whats the deal???


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Hope you can get it seperate from the fuel pump, or it will be pricey :nopity:  I had to replace the sending unit in my 2000 C3500, and luckily the sending unit was available seperate from the fuel pump.  Took about 20 mins to change.

 

 

 

 

What was your fix on just the sending unit? That only took 20 minutes, we need a how 2. :wtf:

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Hope you can get it seperate from the fuel pump, or it will be pricey :nopity:  I had to replace the sending unit in my 2000 C3500, and luckily the sending unit was available seperate from the fuel pump.  Took about 20 mins to change.

 

 

 

 

What was your fix on just the sending unit? That only took 20 minutes, we need a how 2. :wtf:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yes tell us how you changed in 20minutes mines bad too

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Well mine was on an obs 3500 (2000 model vortec 454)

 

All I do is remove all the driver's side bed bolts out, and loosen the passenger side (unbolt fuel filler line from bedside. Use a floor jack to raise the bed on the drivers side. Make sure all wires (taillights specifically are not stretched, or disconnect as necessary There is a metal retaining ring around the fuel pump assy that holds it to the tank, remove this and carefully pull the assembly out from the tank. The fuel level sending unit is a rheostat (not positive on the terminology) with a float attached to it. The sending unit snaps in on the side of the pump assembly. (I did this about a year and a half ago so I don't remember the exact way, but when you look at the pump assembly it was pretty straight forward. The hardest part was getting the whole assembly sealed around the o-ring, and getting that metal retainer back in place.

 

I'm sorry, but I didn't think to take any pictures when I did the project. In my case the sending unit was $81 from parts.

 

But at $800, I would have stuck to the trusty ole odometer as well. :cheers:

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