off road dealer

txgmc · December 23, 2004

I know that the questions on torsion bar lift has been beaten to death here and I can see that there are pros and cons to doing the lift but the majority that has had the crank done see no negative issues with the T lift.

I called an off road dealer locally and he suggested a T bar crank if I just wanted to raise the front end to fit a 16X8 wheel on a 285-75-16.

He stated that the only difference I might feel would be a slightly rougher ride.

I asked if an upgraded shock would help the ride any and he stated that it would not.

Cost out the door would be 150.00.

He also stated that the computer would need to be recalibrated and the front end aligned.

Does all this ring true, especially for the upgraded shocks?

I have a 2004 GMC 4x4 CC 2500 HD.

Thanks for your help and have a great holiday season

soccermom · December 23, 2004

The larger tires will throw off your speedometer and effect your ABS (something to do with speed sensor). I think an aftermarket PCM flash is your only solution to these issues since dealers can only re-program up to 265 tires (according to my dealer).

For the t-bars, a $150 is a lot to pay. My local muffler shop did it for free. The ride quality (2 turns, nearly leveled the truck) was unchanged and I have noticed no effects on the alignment (tracking or tire wear). My last truck also had cranked bars and didn't require an alignment after but your truck may.

Maybe the tire dealer will crank the bars for you while intalling the new wheels/rubber?

txgmc · December 23, 2004

Thanks, that is some great information

Wingnut · December 23, 2004

$150 is a LOT of money for using an 18mm socket, and turning two bolts two turns each.

You could do it yourself in the parking lot (even if you have to buy the tools), go pay for an alignment, and still save $75. Or just take it down to the place that aligns it, and ask them to do it, they will usually crank the bars for free.

It will affect your ride quality. How far you crank them dictates how much the ride will be effected. Longer shocks DO help, and help a lot. When you crank the bars, you lose every bit of downtravel you have on the factory shocks.

Two decent shocks for the front end can cost as little as $30 per shock, and can be put on in an hour or so.

As for the computer recalibration, that is correct. If you install bigger tires, the computer needs to be adjusted. The dealer can't adjust past 265/75, but aftermarket tuners can. (Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, I'm not 100% sure for the 04 model year.)

If you crank the bars, but don't add tires, the computer does not need to be calibrated.

txgmc · December 23, 2004

Thanks WingNut.......great info.

Would there be a recommendation for aftermarket shocks and would it make sense to do all four while Im at it.

Wingnut · December 23, 2004

I just got the low-end ProComp shocks, and did all 4.

But I don't know how necessary doing all 4 of them would be. That would be kind of a personal preference.

txgmc · December 23, 2004

Thanks for your help....now maybe I can find an all in one shop here in the Fort Worth area.

Bgdsub72 · December 24, 2004

I cranked mine about 3 turns after I installed my 3" fabtech lift on my 04 2500 CC. Ride was virtually unchanged and I did get an alignment imediatly after the lift and crank of the t-bars (camber was way off) $150 is way too much to spend on cranking the bars... Just craw under your truck and do it your self.

Valsport · December 24, 2004

$150 is a LOT of money for using an 18mm socket, and turning two bolts two turns each.

You could do it yourself in the parking lot (even if you have to buy the tools), go pay for an alignment, and still save $75. Or just take it down to the place that aligns it, and ask them to do it, they will usually crank the bars for free.

It will affect your ride quality. How far you crank them dictates how much the ride will be effected. Longer shocks DO help, and help a lot. When you crank the bars, you lose every bit of downtravel you have on the factory shocks.

Two decent shocks for the front end can cost as little as $30 per shock, and can be put on in an hour or so.

As for the computer recalibration, that is correct. If you install bigger tires, the computer needs to be adjusted. The dealer can't adjust past 265/75, but aftermarket tuners can. (Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, I'm not 100% sure for the 04 model year.)

If you crank the bars, but don't add tires, the computer does not need to be calibrated.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

OK, how in the world do you think you're loosing all of your downward travel even of your shocks with 2 turns? Thats insane. The suspension has to be at full droop (like you have the front end jacked up by the frame) for the shocks and suspension to loose all downtravel.

Chevy Tough · December 27, 2004

If you do a crank on your T-bars make sure to lube them and turn them a good full rotation on both sides, that should give you a good clearance of 2 or 3 inches if you decided to crank the bars, but i would suggest not to crank them to much as this could cause effect on the CV shafts, Ball joints, and Tie rod life, also a good set of heavy duty shocks or some of those rancho shocks would do as well, and Alignment wouldn't hurt and shouldnt cost much.

Butch 02 Denali · December 28, 2004

I know that the questions on torsion bar lift has been beaten to death here and I can see that there are pros and cons to doing the lift but the majority that has had the crank done see no negative issues with the T lift.

I called an off road dealer locally and he suggested a T bar crank if I just wanted to raise the front end to fit a 16X8 wheel on a 285-75-16.

He stated that the only difference I might feel would be a slightly rougher ride.

I asked if an upgraded shock would help the ride any and he stated that it would not.

Cost out the door would be 150.00.

He also stated that the computer would need to be recalibrated and the front end aligned.

Does all this ring true, especially for the upgraded shocks?

I have a 2004 GMC 4x4 CC 2500 HD.

Thanks for your help and have a great holiday season

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

My guess is the dealer was quoting you cranking the bars, aligning the front end AND recalibrating the PCM for that $150 price, not bad really.

Cranking the bars will get you Appx 1/4" per turn, two turns will get about 1/2 inch. Certaintly no need to change shocks for anything less than 1 1/2" of lift or drop!!!

Wingnut · December 28, 2004

I tend to disagree. I only cranked mine about 2 turns (maybe 2 1/2), and my ride would shake the fillings out of my teeth until I put longer shocks on. Then it was back to the normal Caddy-like ride. I didn't change anything else that day, and it was immediately apparent when I drove it.

The new shocks had less than an inch of (fully extended) length on the stockers, and it made a HUGE difference.

But everybodys mileage may vary, that's only my .02.

Butch 02 Denali · December 28, 2004

I tend to disagree. I only cranked mine about 2 turns (maybe 2 1/2), and my ride would shake the fillings out of my teeth until I put longer shocks on. Then it was back to the normal Caddy-like ride. I didn't change anything else that day, and it was immediately apparent when I drove it.

The new shocks had less than an inch of (fully extended) length on the stockers, and it made a HUGE difference.

But everybodys mileage may vary, that's only my .02.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Wingnut, I'n not saying it didn't happen to you, I just wonder what is different in your truck then??? Cranking the bars 2-2.5 turns will lift the truck 1/2-3/4". I've never see a factory shock that didn't have at least 4-6" of travel. That would mean your shocks were riding at stock height very near the top of the stroke of the shocks and not in the center where is normal. I've never seen or heard of a factory shock that wasn't linear in it's dampening, meaning the shock has the same dampening pressure for the full stroke of the piston. When you do lift 2" higher than stock, the geomentry of the front end gets way out of whack and the ball joints are at a sharp angle and almost binding, that is what usually causes the rough ride. Do you have the plow package on that truck with the heavier bars? Maybe someone had already cranked the bars? Just trying to figure out why your truck is different!

Valsport · December 28, 2004

yeah thats for sure not the norm

kjjz28 · December 28, 2004

TXgmc...hope you don't mind if I tag onto your post. I'm over in the Dallas area and need to do the same thing although it's not time for me to get new rubber yet.

For anyone that has turned the bars themselves, do you need to jack the truck off the ground or put it on a lift and is a an 18mm socket all you need?

Thanks!