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What is the best Trans Kit?


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  • 1 month later...

Just my $.02 on this toppic. Check with your local Transmission shops also, fortunately for my I found one here in my small town. The guy that owns it is a drag racer, we looked at all of the transkits mentioned, and if you look at the fine print most of them recomended some tear down modifications. We ended up going with another kit that he has had great success with in Camaro's and Firebirds. This kit was from a company called Superior if I remember right.

 

The kit, Corvette servo, was installed and pressure was adjusted to my liking. In other words I like them to be firm, not just crisp. Talk with your installer and tell them what you intend to do with it, and let them set it up to those requirements. My truck will get rubber in 2nd and shift into 3rd leaves no mistake about did it shift or not, if you know what I mean.

 

Have had it in for about 6 months now, and I enjoy every bang of my buck spent. :devil:

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The TransGo kit is all in the VB. No tear down any further than that is needed. There are tons of shortcomings in the 4L60 that need to be adressed. There are ALSO some parts not included in any shift kit that IMHO should be replaced in the VB. The crap plastic accumulator piston GM uses has got to go. That thing cracks and causes a mess. Ou should also replace the VB spacer plate with the HD TransGo plate. The check balls eat away at the stock plate and increase the hole sizes when they need not be. The HD plate is less prone to that. Torque Managment is what kills the trannys. Cuts fluid pressure during shifts to "save" the tranny. When in all reality it reduces fluid flow to the 3-4 clutch pack which tends to be the problem area of most 4L60's. The 4L60 also suffers from whats called an engage-delay bang. The tranny gets caught in between a shift and cant decide what it wants to do. This sometimes occurs when you get into the throttle and back out of it right before the tranny gets a chance to shift. The idle climbs then the trany bangs back into gear. Not a good thing. Output shafts can snap that way. You gotta watch increasing line pressure with LS1Edit too or any tuning program for that matter. That is not the best way to go about getting firmer shifts. A proper shift kit install is what attains that. Many people have friend their tranny because they kicked the line pressure up with Edit from 90. Although I have seen people kill a 4L60 tranny even when they have no mods at all. And people have juiced the piss out of a stock tranny and its still alive and kicking. Some get really lucky I guess. A TransGo with no washers, Superior Intermediate and Overdrive Billet servos, a few upgraded Sonnax VB internals and a B&M Supercooler woud be an ideal setup.

 

Heres a list of some parts that I just ordered for my 4L60:

Red Eagle band and drum

Input drum reinforcing collar kit

TransGo HD2 kit

TG VB seperator plate

Beast Sunshell

Sonnax parts: Pump check valve, abuse plugs, pinless accumulators

Beefier output shaft

HD pump springs

Red Eagle Alto 3-4 clutch pack

3-4 release springs

13 vane front pump upgrade

Superior Billet intermediate and overdrive servos

4x4 4L60 pan (Holds 1 more quart than the 2x4 pan)

 

And there are still a few more things I still have to get.....

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your truck should already have the 13 vane pump already so i don't see much gain in getting that kit. there were some 99's built without the 13 vane kit, but it's uncommon. the seperator plate is fine if you change it about every 50k or use the plastic check balls. the deep pan from gm only came two ways, with and without drain plug. there is no difference in 2wd-4wd pans. i'm not sure you're going to gain any prime speed or pressure changing the pump spring. if you check the spring pressure in the one you are buying to the one you already have, you may find it to be exactly the same. the red alto clutch set is good for towing or plowing, but not all that great for performance as they can tend to overheat quickly under multiple gear changes between 2-3.

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your truck should already have the 13 vane pump already so i don't see much gain in getting that kit. there were some 99's built without the 13 vane kit, but it's uncommon. the seperator plate is fine if you change it about every 50k or use the plastic check balls. the deep pan from gm only came two ways, with and without drain plug. there is no difference in 2wd-4wd pans. i'm not sure you're going to gain any prime speed or pressure changing the pump spring. if you check the spring pressure in the one you are buying to the one you already have, you may find it to be exactly the same. the red alto clutch set is good for towing or plowing, but not all that great for performance as they can tend to overheat quickly under multiple gear changes between 2-3.

 

 

 

 

I did some research and it does not have the 13 vane. Why would I want to change my seperator plate every 50K??? Yes there is a difference between the 2 pans. Thats why I bought it. Im not looking for line pressure from a tranny pan. Its deeper, holds a quart more fluid, how is that a bad thing? Plowing with my truck...... No. I got the Altos because they are full-faced grooveless clutche that cant trap oil between the clutch and the steel. They work their best with full thickness Kolene steels too. Im not running any of those 9 disc setups either. The steels are way too thin. Heat buildup wont be as bad in a thicker steel. Im gonna run a 7 setup with full thickness steels. The stock pump slide spring causes pressure to drop over 5500 RPM's. Thats no bueno in a motor that has a red-line at 6300.

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you've done research on the front pump? where did you find this info? i've not only rebuilt them, but also have access to the gm parts catalogue. in the same place you'll find that there are only two gm deep pans, one with a magnet and one without. as for the seperator plate, the rear checkball (i believe it's #8) will commonly beat it's way into the plate and at times get stuck in the plate becoming unusable and creating an 1870 code. have you ever recorded this drop of pressure over 5500 using a pressure gauge?

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you've done research on the front pump? where did you find this info? i've not only rebuilt them, but also have access to the gm parts catalogue. in the same place you'll find that there are only two gm deep pans, one with a magnet and one without. as for the seperator plate, the rear checkball (i believe it's #8) will commonly beat it's way into the plate and at times get stuck in the plate becoming unusable and creating an 1870 code. have you ever recorded this drop of pressure over 5500 using a pressure gauge?

 

 

 

 

Thats great, Ive got a GM parts catalog in PDF form too. I dont know if you have a japanese version or what. But I have 2 little listings right here in front of me. The list states: Shallow 8667545 and Deep, YES Deep: 24215535. And on the pressure drop. I have in fact seen that with my own eyes. I rode with a local guy who tried and proved this matter to be true. Im gonna do what I wish with my tranny. Ive spoken to Joe at Jag Performance, some people at Team Tripp and Dave at Rock-On Transmission. Id much rather take their word on the innards and do's and donts on the 4L60. No offense man.

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of course there's a shallow and deep pan, but that has nothing to do with 2wd and 4wd. peek your head under a newer truck whether it be 2wd or 4wd and you'll find a deep style pan. the only differences are with and without drain plug.

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of course there's a shallow and deep pan, but that has nothing to do with 2wd and 4wd. peek your head under a newer truck whether it be 2wd or 4wd and you'll find a deep style pan. the only differences are with and without drain plug.

 

 

 

 

Ok man. Whatever. Your kicking a dead horse here. NEWER TRUCK!!! I dont recall owning a 2005 Silverado. I do not have a deep pan on my tranny. I bought a deep pan for my tranny. For god sake, what are you trying to prove here??

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