A few questions?

Silver-Dollar · July 29, 2004

Does a lower thermostat really help? Before the truck hits the higher temps, the truck drives killer. Could I expect something like that all the time with a lower stat?

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What is the stock injector rate on a 03 5.3l? How high could I go without a fuel pump change and/or a new tune? Could an in-line booster be used instead of a drop-in?

Would like a new cam. Do I need to match the 114 lsa of the stock cam? What are the differences b/w 112 lsa and a 114 lsa other than 2 degrees ? How much change in the grind itself can I make before a new tune is needed?

Or should I just scrimp until I have the $$$$ for a Radix?

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Headers: As a daily driver, are ceramic coated headers really better than stainless?

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Thanks for your input. I hate to spend money that could have been placed elsewhere.

mazingo · July 29, 2004

I thing the lower temp will help, but dont go too low or you engine will run in limp mode( rich). It is not just you engine that likes cooler temps if you have a auto tranny you might think about a cooler, it will extend its life and coot the fluid temps. LSA determines how lone it takes from the time the intake valve opens opens until the exhaust valve and it makes a big difference. I dont know if you need to match the stock ISA or not???? That is a good question!

Chris97K1500 · July 29, 2004

I put in a 180 degree HyperTech t-stat. No problems and it is consistently 2 bars lower than it was before, so even though the temp may not be 180, it's cooler than it was before. Chris

Chevyfreek · July 29, 2004

I just received the 180 degree PowerStat from Hypertech that I ordered. I still have to install it though. I have read that a 180 degree stat is ideal for everyday use and that a 160 is just to cool of a stat for a daily driver. I am curious to see how it works with my Westers Hot Tune. It should help a little in theory since the engine should runs a little cooler...

Silver-Dollar · July 30, 2004

I think I am going to wait to do the thermostat later. The mods I am tossing around right now are changing to 4.10s, headers, torque converter, or electric fans. I know the mods that will gain the most results will be the 4.10s and torque converter.

I more than likely go with Richmond Gears on the 4.10s and have received a quote on the swap. It was not that bad. Not really all that concerned about mpg's as long as it is not to drastic. More concerned about running real high rpms for long periods of time.

As far as the Torque Converter, Yank converters seem to be the popular choice. Just not sure on what stall speed to get. I was thinking somewhere in the low 2000 range since I would like to have it locked up when driving highway speeds. Or is this not good thinking?

99Silver6.0 · July 30, 2004

If you get the motor too cold the PCM will throw more fuel at it to try to get it to warm up I think. If it is too cold its gonna go into limp mode. Stock injectors are 24.7lb/hr. They re probably good to about 320-330hp. Then you can get ya some 8.1 marine injectors. But other than that you dont really need to change them. On the LSA of cams, the lower the LSA the quicker the power comes in. Just dont get a high LSA cam or you will be very disappointed if you dont have a converter. The 112 will have a nice lope to it compared to the 114. Which grind are you looking at? The ceramic coated headers will keep O2 temps where they need to be. Plus they will keep your underhood temps down. TOG (The Other Guys), Arizona Speed and Thorley make great headers for the LSX truck motor. Im gonna throw some oney at some coated Thorley Tri-Y's when I get some money. In my opinion, long tubes are THE ony way to go. More gain for the money. But on the other hand, JBA makes the best shorty headers.