Need to find diesel injection pump numbers

tleed · July 14, 2004

I posted the below on the main light duty board, but I haven't gotten any responses. So I figured I'd try here. Any help out there for the following?:

"Looks like I'm in for an injector pump on my '96 Suburban 6.5 liter (227k miles). A friend can order the pump for me at cost, + 10 percent (total: $1072), but he needs the numbers off the injector pump to order the right one.

I can't find the numbers.

Do I have to take it out just to get the numbers?

If not, what has to come apart and where will I find the numbers he needs?

My Chilton's says the intake manifold has to come off to get the pump out. Is that the whole intake manifold, or just the small top cover-looking thing with 4-5 bolts?

Is that all I have to take apart to get the numbers?

And do I have to replace that gasket when I take it apart?

Incidentally, the truck runs fine except that it will occasionally cut off with no warning. Usually takes a bit of cranking to get re-started. Not setting any codes. Just had the wastegate sensor replaced. Getting good mileage. Dealer says if it's really the injector pump it will just quit altogether one day. Can't wait for that day, though. Don't want to get stranded 5 states away from home."

Thomas

snoman · July 14, 2004

It is a electronically controlled pump. If it is intermittant it could be at fault. Are filters clean and you have good fuel pressure to the pump? At 227k you have gotten good life for sure though. Have you tried "acting" like you are going to buy the pump from the dealer and getting them to give you the part number (which thay may even be able to tell from VIN) so that you can have it handy when it "fails"?"

tleed · July 14, 2004

Thanks snoman!

I changed the fuel filter about 1500 miles ago. Had a hard time getting it on tight at first, but I think it's fine now.

Haven't checked fuel pressure myself, but the dealer checked vehicle over thoroughly and told me he thought it was dying injector pump and that was the next thing to "try". Since he said it was a $2000 job he didn't want to slap on the part just to verify like you might do with a $50 part. He made sure all electricals were tight and sent me home to see if the problem persisted, and it has. Just cuts off average couple of times/week. Slow to re-start, but always has so far.

I'll look into the VIN/dealer part number option. That could get me there.

I take it to mean you have to pull the injector pump to get the numbers off of it, huh?

Thomas

snoman · July 14, 2004

Most likey unless you are a contorsionest. I have little doubt that dealer would know correct number without taking it apart. It will have to be timed though if you change it and that can be tricky.

Chev8.1 · July 14, 2004

Yep your dealer is right about the injector pump. All most a sure sign. Still runs and drive trade it in, but understand, cause the is no dmax op. for a sub.

snoman · July 14, 2004

Yep your dealer is right about the injector pump. All most a sure sign. Still runs and drive trade it in, but understand, cause the is no dmax op. for a sub.

Why trade it? If he replaces pump, it may go another 100,000 miles or more as I have heard of 6.5's going over 350K without internal problems. Plus the OBS burb seem to be more trouble free overall by design as the NBS trucks are always having some kind of weird quirk it seems if not engine it is body or climate controls or something else. I have a cherry 89 4x4 burg with 170k on it that I bought new. It is our travel car and I have no intention of replacing it for a long time if ever. It has been a very trouble free unit and I would drive it cross country tomorrow as it has logged over a dozen trips like that and never had any lost time to break down on any of those trips.

Chev8.1 · July 14, 2004

why stick more money into than its worth??

snoman · July 14, 2004

why stick more money into than its worth??

It depends on how you define "worth". Putting a few grand into a paid for truck that is otherwise fine and driving it for a few more years is far more cost effective than spending 40 grand for a new one and have it lose almost half of it value in the first 2 or 3 years and be out of warranty again from high mileage and having more little gadgets to go bad as well.

tleed · July 15, 2004

I can't buy a diesel Suburban at all, and a similarly-optioned Suburban is over $53,000. I paid $4750 four months ago, and if I throw down $1100 for the injector pump, I'm still almost $47,000 ahead. Guess my Suburban is getting the injector pump. And I'm still a very happy camper-tower.

Thanks again for the advice so far.

Thomas

snoman · July 15, 2004

I can't buy a diesel Suburban at all, and a similarly-optioned Suburban is over $53,000. I paid $4750 four months ago, and if I throw down $1100 for the injector pump, I'm still almost $47,000 ahead. Guess my Suburban is getting the injector pump. And I'm still a very happy camper-tower.

Thanks again for the advice so far.

Thomas

Very sound judgement!

tleed · July 15, 2004

I got the pump part number from the dealer today: 12561307. I hope that will be sufficient to order the new pump.

Thanks for the attaboy, snoman! The economics work for me.

Thomas

snoman · July 15, 2004

I got the pump part number from the dealer today: 12561307. I hope that will be sufficient to order the new pump.

Thanks for the attaboy, snoman! The economics work for me.

Thomas

No problem and why you have it down you might change all your fluids too (tranny, transfer case if you have one, axles also)