Wheel Weights

Pancho · May 27, 2004

I had 285/75/16 BFG AT KO's mounted on 16X8 Weld Stonecrushers the other day. Flat weights were used inside the tire. After mounting tires on the truck and backing out my drive that evening I notice several weights laying on the drive. Craw under truck and find there is very little clearance between inside wheel and brakes - the brakes knocked the weights off.

Went back to tire shop yesterday, this time they move flat weights way up toward inside front of tire and clip on weights out on the edge (inside rim). Drove great until I take it out on the highway last night and hear some chunks. Craw back under and notice at least three weights missing already.

Long and short, what is the best way to get these things balanced? I do not want weights on the finished surface. I guess I am also wondering how many times I have been driving around with improperly balanced tires due to throwing weights.

1BADHD · May 27, 2004

Well...there is no other way to do it really. Maybe put some superglue on them after you get home?

n8huntsman · May 28, 2004

Doesnt duct tape fix everything? LOL

wandell · May 28, 2004

My wheels were balanced by using the clip on weights on the inside lip of the rim only. I also have 285/75-16 BFG's. My rims are the Eagle Alloy copy of the Stonecrusher.

Pancho · May 28, 2004

I think my problems are solved. I did a search for a local shop that has the Hunter GSP9700 wheel balance system and as much as I dislike going to the dealer that is where I ended up. After a couple of hours they called in the area Hunter rep. who was very helpful. I got the impression that he was using it as training opportunity.

He pointed out that the clip on wheel weights used by the tire store I purchased the tires from were not appropriate for the Weld wheels. He said that some shops cut corners on their weight inventory and just use whatever they have.

They ended up remounting three of the four tires to minimize the amount of weight needed. I am inclined to take the stock PYO's I run in winter in for the same procedure.

GMCTech · May 29, 2004

I'll preface this by saying this is a long procedure and only for the foolish (like me)

Many GM dealerships have the road force balance system that can determine the best tire for the best rim combination for the least amount of wheel weight.

For a couple customers I have gone so far as to road force analyze and remount tires until close as possible without weights - You then throe them on the balancer, mark the EXACT location of weight placement and the EXACT location of position that tire is on the rim, dimount tire and attach the wheel weights INSIDE the rim with a bit of 2 stage epoxy. I think that the sticky back would be strong enough on the flat weights but I don't want to take any chances of them coming off so the epoxy goes on. Only use a small amount of epoxy so as not to throw off the weight, remount the tires and spin balance again to verify.

I try to get them dead on, but 1/4 oz. wont affect performance as long as it is installed in the rear. So make sure that two are perfect for front mount.

This procedure is not really intended for high mileage vehicles that rotate the tirs often, or need rebalancing often. (For obvious reasons) In fact both vehicles I've done don't put more than 3000 miles on a year (show cars and such).

Hope this helps - It does make for an extremely "clean" installation that will raise eyebrows!

Pancho · May 29, 2004

The Hunter rep actually mentioned another method that they are either working on or it is already out where they mount the weight inside the tire (not on the wheel), like a weighted patch. It seems very labor intensive having to mount and dismount all the tires but you would not have to worry about losing weights.

Pancho · May 29, 2004

GMCTech - how often do you recommend having the front alignment checked? I last had mine done when I cranked the torsion bars and I am wondering if it might not be a good idea.

GMCTech · May 30, 2004

My personal rule on alignments is have an alignment done any time an alignment sensitive part is replaced (tie rod end, torsion adjustment, control arm bushings, etc.).

Other than that I only recommend alignment if:

1) Vehicle pulls left or right with no other cause suchas brake hang-up, etc.

2) Tires have worn improperly based on vehicle usage. I usually rotate first and see after a 1000 miles if the rotated tires are exhibiting the same wear.

3) ANY time a bent component (especially a rim) is replaced under vehicle (irregardless of alignment sensitivity).

4) If the steering wheel is off-center.

Hope this helps.