4x2 Conversion Help Please

swanthog · April 26, 2004

I purchased a kit to convert my 1977 Chevy Silverado K10 full-time 4-wheel to two wheel drive. The kit includes locking hubs and the necessary pieces to modify the transfer case.

Before I install the kit, I need to replace a badly worn U-Joint on my front right axle. I've removed the brake caliper and most of the hubs guts but now I'm against a brick wall. There's a nut in there that appears to require a special tool to remove. I think it's the last nut that is against the outer bearing.

My Chilton's manual is useless to me.

Can someone please tell me how to remove this nut?

Thanks!

Larry S.

swanthog · April 26, 2004

It looks like I'm going to need a special socket to remove the nut. I'm told it's referred to as a spanner nut. It's round and has little notches around the circumference. Spanner nut, is that right?

--Larry S.

swanthog · April 26, 2004

Also, what tools do I need to remove the ball joints and steering arm from the hub?

Thanks!

Larry S.

citydriver · April 27, 2004

It looks like I'm going to need a special socket to remove the nut. I'm told it's referred to as a spanner nut. It's round and has little notches around the circumference. Spanner nut, is that right?

Yep,thats right,they make a special socket 4 it,you should be able to pick 1 up from your local parts store for under $20

Also, what tools do I need to remove the ball joints and steering arm from the hub?

WHY? R you replacing them?.....If you're only doing the U-joint,you shouldnt have to break the ball joints loose....the shaft should pull out through the steering knuckle after you pull the spindle off..if there is a grease fitting in 1 of the U-joint end caps you will have to remove it B4 the shaft will come out.....

But if you're replacing them,I've used a pickle fork to break them and a ball joint press to remove/install them(ball joints)

swanthog · April 27, 2004

Thanks. I borrowed the spanner nut socket and finally got the hub off. You were right, I didn't need to break loose the ball joints nor did I need to remove the steering arm's tie rod end. Unfortunately, I removed the tie rod end before I discovered this. So, I'll need to buy it a new boot or replace it all together.

I'm curious, there was no axle seal in the axle housing. Should there be? It doesn't seem right for there to be a big open space like that leading straight to the diff.

Any tips for reassembling all of this? should I clean all the old grease out and repack the wheels bearings?

Thanks!

Larry S.

swanthog · April 27, 2004

Another question:

I'm using the 4x2 kit from Mile Marker. Does anyone have experience with this kit? What are your impressions? Good/Bad?

--Larry S.

Hecktorx · April 27, 2004

I had the Mile Marker conversion on my old 79 K5 I owned about 14 years ago. About the only thing I remember about the kit was you should exercise the transfer case about once a month. By that I mean, put her 4-wheel with the hubs unlocker to spread the transfer case fluid around. It will help keep things lubbed.

Kenny

swanthog · April 27, 2004

put her 4-wheel with the hubs unlocker to spread the transfer case fluid around.

Why should the hubs be unlocked for the once-monthly t-case lube?

Hecktorx · April 28, 2004

You can do it with the hubs locked, I just suggested it that way because you can do it on dry pavement.

Kenny

citydriver · April 29, 2004

Any tips for reassembling all of this? should I clean all the old grease out and repack the wheels bearings?

I'm curious, there was no axle seal in the axle housing. Should there be? It doesn't seem right for there to be a big open space like that leading straight to the diff.

There is a seal inside the axle tube closer to the diff...there should be a "shiney" area on the axle shaft where the seal rides..I suggest that you coat that area along w'the splines w/grease tto help protect the seal from damage when you re-install it...also you should clean,inspect and repack the wheel bearings before you re-assemble the hub,there is also a bearing inside the spindle that you should apply grease to,you can do this w/out removing it from the spindle...I would also think about replacing the hub grease seals while you have it apart...it's a whole lot easier to do this while it's in peices rather than take it all apart again later...be sure not to overtighten the spindle/spanner nut when adjusting the wheel bearings,

they should rotate freely,but not sloppy.......hope this helps

citydriver · April 29, 2004

I'm using the 4x2 kit from Mile Marker. Does anyone have experience with this kit? What are your impressions? Good/Bad?

I'm not sure,but I think I installed 1 of those on my '79 Jimmy back in '85(I feel old now) It worked real well for me...Hectorx is right about periodically locking the hubs for a few miles...it spins the diff and driveshaft to help keep it all slick w/lube.

swanthog · April 29, 2004

There is a seal inside the axle tube closer to the diff...there should be a "shiney" area on the axle shaft where the seal rides..I suggest that you coat that area along w'the splines w/grease tto help protect the seal from damage when you re-install it...also you should clean,inspect and repack the wheel bearings before you re-assemble the hub,there is also a bearing inside the spindle that you should apply grease to,you can do this w/out removing it from the spindle...I would also think about replacing the hub grease seals while you have it apart...it's a whole lot easier to do this while it's in peices rather than take it all apart again later...be sure not to overtighten the spindle/spanner nut when adjusting the wheel bearings,
they should rotate freely,but not sloppy.......hope this helps

You're referring to the large rubber seal, right? If so, yes, I coated with grease every surface that it comes into contact with. I didn't think that the new, dry, rubber would fair so well against the clean steel.

I checked and packed with grease the needle bearings in the axle housing. The wheel bearings showed ho signs of wear so I just packed them with additional grease and called it good.

I'd like some feed back from you all about the following: In the original full-time setup, there is a steel ring that rides against the outer wheel bearing. Riding against this ring is a large spring that keeps the gear that joins the hub to the axle pushed outward. I liberated the hub of the steel ring, spring, and gear when I installed the new locking hub.

Was this the right thing to do? The Mile Marker installation instructions are sparse at best. Furthermore, the fit of the locking hubs into the hub was pretty tight. I had to coax it in with a hammer and block of wood. I didn't need to use too much force but I think removing these later is going to be a little tricky. I anticitpate having to construct a special locking hub puller(unles there's already one in existence).

Now on to the other side. This will be quick and easy since I don't need to dissasemble the hub as I did with the other side.

Any tips for installing the transfer case modifications?

Thanks, all.

Larry S.

citydriver · April 30, 2004

In the original full-time setup, there is a steel ring that rides against the outer wheel bearing. Riding against this ring is a large spring that keeps the gear that joins the hub to the axle pushed outward. I liberated the hub of the steel ring, spring, and gear when I installed the new locking hub.

As far as I can remember,you did that right..the spring and gear from the original set-up r not needed cause the new lockig hub replace those.

Any tips for installing the transfer case modifications?

Just follow the directions,It's been awhile since I've done 1,so I cant be much help 2 ya...but I dont remeber it being very difficult...just be sure to check the driveshaft u-joints while you have it out...and when you pull the tail housing off of the transfer case to remove the planetary(spider) gears,be sure to clean the sealing surface before re-assy....GOOD LUCK

swanthog · May 6, 2004

Well, both hubs are on and the spider gears replaced in the T-case. The Mile Marker instructions were not at all clear about how everything gets put back together. So, I looked and reasoned and put it all back together the only way possible. The main problem here is that I'm unsure about the purpose of the T-case mod other than remove the coupling that always drives the front wheels.

My question is, when do I know if I'm in 4-wheel drive? I need to lock the hubs, that's a no-brainer. But which shift position do I use on the T-case to select 2-wheel vs. 4-wheel drive?

Thank you,

Larry S.

citydriver · May 8, 2004

My question is, when do I know if I'm in 4-wheel drive? I need to lock the hubs, that's a no-brainer. But which shift position do I use on the T-case to select 2-wheel vs. 4-wheel drive?

LO LOCK is 4wd low...HI LOCK is 4wd high...NEUTRAL is self explanitory...HI is 2wd high......

The T-case mod eliminates the planetarty gears in the case that allowed the truck to utilize AWD on dry pavement...sorta like the differential in your axles to allow you to turn corners w/o wheel hop...it would allow the transfer of power from the front axle to the rear axle during normal driving conditions...the mod eliminates the differential action in the T-case to allow all of the power to go to the rear axle while your front hubs r unlocked...otherwise the trk would'nt move when the new hubs wher unlocked....the only drawback of the conversion is that have to careful not to drive on dry pavement with the trk in 4wd..........Hope this helps