Vacuum pump delete towing

mikeyk101 · Sunday at 06:31 PM

Just now, rav3 said:

Good info. I have a Range Disabler & I have to remove it a week or so before get it inspected (in NC) in order for it to pass inspection. Maybe I should contact them for an update. What year is ur truck? Mine is a '17 5.3 6 speed

Mine is a 2016 5.3 6 speed. I don't know how old mine was but I had been using it for several years. It couldn't hurt to reach out to them. Supposedly the new version runs in a more stealth mode. I only contacted them because of the failure but they may just do an upgrade just because. Here is what I found in their FAQ

"HOWEVER, the latest firmware (8.6+) has a more "stealthy" mode and is invisible, so it DOES NOT affect the OnStar report for most vehicles most of the time. HOWEVER, there may be a case where the Onstar hits the vehicle when running or driving, and at those times it MAY give an error"

Although this is discussing the monthly OnStar diagnostic report, I think it also applies to the sensors from my experience with it.

reardiff · Monday at 06:40 PM

On 11/24/2024 at 10:18 AM, Grumpy Bear said:

My 2015 has 185,000 miles on her. Original brakes and yes, including vacuum pump and works like a dream. I even declined the ABS reprograming.

The secret is clean vacuum pump screens and they stay clean when oil is changed often enough to prevent precipitation of oxidation, nitration, lacquer and varnish products AND/OR use an oil with enough solvency AND dispersant to hold them in SOLUTION for the current oil change interval. There is also the environment to consider. How it is used. I do all three. 5K (shorter) and a high solvent oil (Ester bearing). Not a short haul, stop and go machine and not used much in the winter months.

As this is/was a common issue for original equipment small screen pumps it aught be self evident that the recommended oil license and suggested oil interval is inappropriate. Dexos1Gen2/3 and 7,500 miles. The OEM cure was a pump with a larger mesh passing screen. Also bearing witness to obstruction as the secondary issue. The oil class and interval the 'root cause'. One to expensive for the OEM to 'Fix" with a requalification.

These same fine mesh screens are also present in the VLOM and under the oil pressure switch. Of these three only the pressure switch is easy to access and a routine replacement on say 40 to 50K mile intervals (replacement) will give one a visual cue as to the effectiveness of you particular situation. That is, even the OEM oil and OCI MAY be effective IF the engines environment is oil friendly. Long haul highway miles in a warmer climate as the bulk of it's existence for example.

Let me get my 'blow back' popcorn out:

Thanks for waiting.

After scouring various sites and articles, this is by far the best 'simple' answer I've seen yet and makes perfect sense. I don't do extended OCI, but also do a lot of very short trips and in a colder winter climate. So, sounds like frequent OCI is the key here. Thanks for the insight.