Questions on using a Sierra/Silverado to haul a slide in camper

RKCRLR · August 28

I'm considering purchasing a new Silverado/Sierra 3500 long bed DRW to haul my truck camper and have some questions (I'm also considering Ram trucks) and have some questions. About half the time the truck will be used without the camper on so it will be removed several times a year.

A lot of the trucks have the Multi-Flex tailgate but I'm concerned about how much it weighs (it looks heavy). On my K3500 I can just unhook the cables, open the tailgate about 30 degrees, and lift the tailgate off. However on the new trucks it looks like I will need a wrench to remove the cables, get underneath to disconnect the wires (I guess the connector is above the spare tire), and then lift it off similarly to my K3500. How much does the Multi-Flex tailgate weigh? And how much does the power up-down tailgate weigh? Is it practical to be removed and reinstalled by one person?

Is there an extension available for the wiring harness to make it easier to get at and a weather plug? Will the computer throw codes without the tailgate?

What tech features will be disabled when the tailgate is removed and a large camper is on the truck? The camper is 8 feet wide and will overhang the cab and rear tail lights. Will blind spot monitoring, surround view, etc. still work? How about if I mount a OEM backup camera on the camper?

I also have a question about double cab vs crew cab. Is the back seat and everything else the same in the double cab as it is in the crew cab and just some leg room is lost or is it smaller? The Chevrolet build site says some options only come with the crew cab, is that true and they don't come with the double cab oris that just poor wording?

Thanks

mobilelists · August 28

Hi,

Sounds like a great use of the truck. I went through the process a couple years ago and ended up with a GMC 2022 3500, 8' bed, SRW and double cab. Also chose not to get the fancy tailgate.

My camper extends to the rear lights. So I remove the tailgate when using the camper. This requires a wrench to remove the bolts at the end of the tailgate cable fastened to the truck bed. I will on occasion use a makeshift support beneath the opened tailgate but just holding it up by leaning into it is not a problem.

Prior to removing the 2 bolts I disconnect the snap connection to the camera located underneath near a cluster of other cables. I also remove a multi-pin connector that has a lever clamp with slide lock and located a little further front from the camera connector. At this time I reinsert a dummy connector and lock it in place (aftermarket part).

Then I remove the tailgate trying to carefully pull the 2 cables with their end connectors through the hole in the sheet metal. At this time I route the cable from a different camera (aftermarket) through that hole and connect to the connector used by the tailgate camera. For now I just have a simple wooden extension from the hole to the aftermarket camera and have found it to be sufficient; no need to mount on the camper.

When ordering the camper I believed the double cab longbed would be too long so was focused on crew. But to get most of the options I required I had to get the double. Well, I believe I am happy to say it was a good choice. The back seat is a giant junk drawer. Many long messy objects and fly fishing equipment go there so I need not mess-up the camper.

I wanted SRW because fishing often requires traveling on gravel/rock rough roads. Check the discussion groups and you will find many people talk about the problems of trapped rocks and mud between the wheels. I also made sure to get the 18" sized wheels that allow the use of chains or so I hope as I may have to use them for a possible late year trip in the snow.

Enjoy your setup and post pics when done.

Hoginedgewood · August 29

Get the camper/snow plow prep so it has stiffer springs in front.

I have a s6'9" bed and a camper for an 8' bed, so I don't remove my tailgate, the cables were hitting the camper, so i welded some flat steel on an angle, change that for the cables and don't remove the tailgate.

Edited August 29 by Hoginedgewood

RKCRLR · August 29

It I custom order a build I will include the heavy duty front camper springs. If I buy one off the lot I'll make sure it has the springs or snow plow prep; or include the cost of changing the front springs in my evaluation. I wish there was an option for rear anti-sway bar, I'd include it if it was available. One advantage Ram has is the auto leveling system.

I currently have a SRW but am tired of having to pay attention of what I'm loading and leaving stuff behind. I don't want a DRW but am going to one because I need it.

Edited August 29 by RKCRLR

Another JR · August 29

Multi flex tailgate weighs 75 lbs. The powered one would be similar - maybe a little lighter. I remove and install mine a couple times per year. It’s a two person job, not so much because of weight, but rather because it is too big to get your arms around. I can remove my 93 truck tailgate easily myself.

Another JR · August 29

50 minutes ago, RKCRLR said:

It I custom order a build I will include the heavy duty front camper springs. If I buy one off the lot I'll make sure it has the springs or snow plow prep; or include the cost of changing the front springs in my evaluation. I wish there was an option for rear anti-sway bar, I'd include it if it was available. One advantage Ram has is the auto leveling system.

I currently have a SRW but am tired of having to pay attention of what I'm loading and leaving stuff behind. I don't want a DRW but am going to one because I need it.

How much does your camper weigh, and how much weight do you expect it to add to the front axle?

An advantage to getting the camper springs or plow package as part of the new truck is the data plate will show the higher FGAWR, which might be required for your load to be legal. If you buy it with standard springs and add heavier ones, the data plate will still show the standard FGAWR.

I bought the camper springs but a few months later realized I didn’t need them and did not like the way they made the front end pitch up going over dips on the highway and made the front noticeably stiffer than the rear. It cost $600 to buy the standard springs and took two easy hours to install them. I posted a report on the job about two years ago.

RKCRLR · August 29

11 hours ago, Another JR said:

How much does your camper weigh, and how much weight do you expect it to add to the front axle?

An advantage to getting the camper springs or plow package as part of the new truck is the data plate will show the higher FGAWR, which might be required for your load to be legal. If you buy it with standard springs and add heavier ones, the data plate will still show the standard FGAWR.

I bought the camper springs but a few months later realized I didn’t need them and did not like the way they made the front end pitch up going over dips on the highway and made the front noticeably stiffer than the rear. It cost $600 to buy the standard springs and took two easy hours to install them. I posted a report on the job about two years ago.

You bring up an interesting point that I may not need (or want) the camper springs on my truck, especially on a gas crew cab long bed truck.

My camper weighs about 3500 lbs completely empty/dry. I figure I could add as much as another ~1000 lbs completely packed with all tanks full but most of that weight will be centered not much forward of the rear axle. And then perhaps another 1000 lbs scattered throughout the truck for people, camping equipment, pets, etc. And then perhaps another 500 lbs tongue weight for a boat I may occasionally tow. So most of the weight will be centered closer to the rear of the vehicle than the front. An exception could be the ebikes that I currently put on a hitch rack in the front of the truck. One advantage of the camper springs would be to reduce squat when braking but that really isn't a problem with my curent truck.

I was always focused on not exceeding rear GAWR on my current crew cab long bed SRW and didn't pay much attention to the front GAWR, especially since the rear squats much more (without the air bags filled) than the front when loaded. I looked through my old weight records but couldn't find where I actually recorded the front axle weight.

I can't find the front GAWR for a 3500 Silverado/Sierra but the Ram is 5500 lbs (6000 lbs with diesel) and I'd assume the Silverado/Sierra is similar. I don't see myself exceeding that.

Edited August 29 by RKCRLR

AndrewF · August 29

46 minutes ago, RKCRLR said:

You bring up an interesting point that I may not need (or want) the camper springs on my truck, especially on a gas crew cab long bed truck.

My camper weighs about 3500 lbs completely empty/dry. I figure I could add as much as another ~1000 lbs completely packed with all tanks full but most of that weight will be centered not much forward of the rear axle. And then perhaps another 1000 lbs scattered throughout the truck for people, camping equipment, pets, etc. And then perhaps another 500 lbs tongue weight for a boat I may occasionally tow. So most of the weight will be centered closer to the rear of the vehicle than the front. An exception could be the ebikes that I currently put on a hitch rack in the front of the truck. One advantage of the camper springs would be to reduce squat when braking but that really isn't a problem with my curent truck.

I was always focused on not exceeding rear GAWR on my current crew cab long bed SRW and didn't pay much attention to the front GAWR, especially since the rear squats much more (without the air bags filled) than the front when loaded. I looked through my old weight records but couldn't find where I actually recorded the front axle weight.

I can't find the front GAWR for a 3500 Silverado/Sierra but the Ram is 5500 lbs (6000 lbs with diesel) and I'd assume the Silverado/Sierra is similar. I don't see myself exceeding that.

This might help with dimensions and front/rear loading

https://www.gmfleetorderguide.com/brand-list/brand/77450ee3-dba7-431a-ad58-098f1ebd9f35/vehicle/22904/model-home

RKCRLR · August 29

34 minutes ago, AndrewF said:

This might help with dimensions and front/rear loading

https://www.gmfleetorderguide.com/brand-list/brand/77450ee3-dba7-431a-ad58-098f1ebd9f35/vehicle/22904/model-home

Thanks,

It says that the 4WD gas FGAWR is 5200 lbs but it doesn't state that the F60 heavy duty front spring/camper package increases FGAWR. It also states that it isn't available with the VYU snow plow prep/camper package.

It does state that the VYU snow plow prep/camper package package increases FGAWR but I can't find where it says by how much.

Are the front springs different between the F60 and VYU packages?

Does the F60 spring package increase FGAWR? If so, by how much?

newdude · August 29

23 minutes ago, RKCRLR said:

Thanks,

It says that the 4WD gas FGAWR is 5200 lbs but it doesn't state that the F60 heavy duty front spring/camper package increases FGAWR. It also states that it isn't available with the VYU snow plow prep/camper package.

It does state that the VYU snow plow prep/camper package package increases FGAWR but I can't find where it says by how much.

Are the front springs different between the F60 and VYU packages?

Does the F60 spring package increase FGAWR? If so, by how much?

VYU will get you the highest FGAWR. F60 meets in the middle.

With VYU on a DRW, all engines will get you 6000lbs FGAWR.

Here's the chart for 1 ton DRW standard, F60 and VYU FGAWRs (the PDF also has 1 ton SRW specs as well):

2024_Chevy_Silverado_3500_HD_VYU.pdf

Here's the link to where I found this: Vehicle Order Guide (gmfleetorderguide.com)

Look for either F60 or VYU options and it should be lit up blue, when you click it the chart page opens with the specs.

Edited August 29 by newdude

RKCRLR · August 29

53 minutes ago, newdude said:

VYU will get you the highest FGAWR. F60 meets in the middle.

With VYU on a DRW, all engines will get you 6000lbs FGAWR.

Here's the chart for 1 ton DRW standard, F60 and VYU FGAWRs (the PDF also has 1 ton SRW specs as well):

2024_Chevy_Silverado_3500_HD_VYU.pdf 86.67 kB · 1 download

Here's the link to where I found this:  Vehicle Order Guide (gmfleetorderguide.com)

Look for either F60 or VYU options and it should be lit up blue, when you click it the chart page opens with the specs.

It's interesting that the F60 and VYU options don't increase the FGAWR on the crew cab DRW diesels but appear to be available for them. Must bump up against another limiting factor.

newdude · August 29

31 minutes ago, RKCRLR said:

It's interesting that the F60 and VYU options don't increase the FGAWR on the crew cab DRW diesels but appear to be available for them. Must bump up against another limiting factor.

Diesel engine weight. The gas ones have a variance standard, F60 and VYU.

Edited August 29 by newdude

Another JR · August 30

I have a 2021 GMC 3500hd CCLB SRW Gas in SLT trim with pretty much all the interior options and dual batteries (single 220 amp alternator), so probably about as heavy as a gas SLT comes. My scale weights with 220 lb driver and full fuel tank are 4440 lbs on the front axle and 3280 lbs on the rear axle. I assume the front axle weight of a 2024 DRW gas SLT would be pretty much the same, but note that the 10 speed transmission is a little heavier. So you would have 5200-4440=760 lbs of front axle capacity available for load in addition to the 220 lbs driver weight in my numbers. Add three more adults takes up 300 to 400 lbs of that. Not much left for front axle camper load, but as you said many campers don’t put much static load on the front axle.

Based on this I think if you are installing a 4500 lbs wet slide-in, you should probably get the F60 springs to bump the front axle rating up 400 lbs to 5600 for some margin, especially if you are going to hang 200 lbs of bikes and rack on the front. It may be the best spring choice for your load, and your data plate will show you legal even with quite a bit of camper weight on the front axle. It will increase lateral stiffness as well. You can always put 5200 lb springs in if you don’t like it (as I did) for not much money and effort. I think the plow package with 6000 lb springs is probably unnecessary for you and you would not like the ride difference. Maybe others will have a different opinion, though.

The payload rating of my truck is 4054 lbs. The camper rating is about 3200 I think. You definitely are making the right choice with a DRW to carry a 4500 lbs wet camper and be able tow a 5000 lbs boat trailer with 500 lbs on the hitch (maybe even an extended hitch?). You won’t be overloaded, and your lateral stiffness and stability in wind with a tall camper will be much better. We all know the downsides of a dually, but if you need one you need one.

Edited August 30 by Another JR

RKCRLR · Tuesday at 12:05 AM

On 8/28/2024 at 7:21 PM, Another JR said:

Multi flex tailgate weighs 75 lbs. The powered one would be similar - maybe a little lighter. I remove and install mine a couple times per year. It’s a two person job, not so much because of weight, but rather because it is too big to get your arms around. I can remove my 93 truck tailgate easily myself.

It looks like I'd wind up the the powered tailgate since it is tied to some options I want. Once that happens it doesn't seem like the Multi-Flex tailgate would add much more weight over the powered tailgate so I might as well add it if I think I'd use it, does that sound correct?

Edited Tuesday at 12:22 AM by RKCRLR

Another JR · Tuesday at 03:07 AM

3 hours ago, RKCRLR said:

It looks like I'd wind up the the powered tailgate since it is tied to some options I want. Once that happens it doesn't seem like the Multi-Flex tailgate would add much more weight over the powered tailgate so I might as well add it if I think I'd use it, does that sound correct?

I would not decide between the tailgates based on weight. They are very close in weight. Instead, I would choose based on which functionality I preferred. Is the multiflex even offered as an option for your truck? I’m not sure it’s just a swap - the wiring would have some differences.

I have the multiflex and pretty much never use it as anything other than a conventional tailgate except when showing it to somebody. However, I either have the tailgate off for a slide in camper or I’m running the bare truck. If I had a canopy or topper and was camping in that I would use it a lot. The bed is quite high, so the step function would be nice for that use.

If I had the option of a powered gate instead it would have been a hard decision. It’s almost a two hand lift for me to close the tailgate, so powered might be nice. At rhe time I bought my 3500 SLT it was conventional non-powered one-piece or multiflex, and the price was the same, so I bought multiflex.

I don’t really like the electric latched tailgate thing in any form - more stuff to potentially fail. I like the old school gate on my 93. I can pop it off myself in less than a minute. My multiflex is a two man half hour job to remove or install including crating, and it lives closed in this crate 7 months out of the year.

Edited Tuesday at 03:17 AM by Another JR