Oil analysis

[johnnyquick]

Guys, I am ignorant as to what this means and could sure use some help deciphering it

TIA

Edited August 23 by txab

[Grumpy Bear]

Okay I got a clear look. 

 

IMO this oil has been toasted for some time. Dexos1Gen2 spec for new oil has a TBN MINIMUM of 6. Only VOA I could find for your oil has it right at the minimum, 6.1. 

 

My rule is 50% depletion.  Even for guys that go 65% that would be a basement of 2.1. You are at 1.96.  Almost 70% lost! 

 

The danger there is deposit and wear control which looks like it is already winking at you. Tin/Aluminum/chromium. Iron is about average for a Ecotec3 IMHO. Less would be better. 

 

That silicon number caught my attention as well. Change that air filter. 

 

It's lost a bit of viscosity but it well within spec and fuel dilution, while ideal would be zero this number is okay for a GDI motor. 

 

If it were mine, and I know it isn't, I'd be looking for a more robust oil. A 5W30 that has a Porsche C30 certification. Even then I'd check the labs and make it prove to me it can go the distance. You have 49K on this unit. Rings are what the rings are. 

 

A bit of a ramble here: 

 

Oil doesn't just keep parts from touching other parts, It is also the thing that IS or MAKES the seal between the cylinder wall and the ring face. When an oil gets beat up like this in such a short distance I think ring seal, even if it isn't using oil. Something is eating the detergent package quickly. It may also be your driving habits (short hopping) or your environment but whatever it is the oil is under attack and it's losing that battle. 

 

I have no trouble understanding why motors fail cams and rings in short mileages when I see a report like this and think to myself, there are thousands of guys using products like this at 7.5K OCI's that never have labs done. Then they blame the design. 

 

Hey, thanks for submitting this report.  

 

 

 

 

Edited August 23 by Grumpy Bear

[johnnyquick]

5 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Okay I got a clear look. 

 

IMO this oil has been toasted for some time. Dexos1Gen2 spec for new oil has a TBN MINIMUM of 6. Only VOA I could find for your oil has it right at the minimum, 6.1. 

 

My rule is 50% depletion.  Even for guys that go 65% that would be a basement of 2.1. You are at 1.96.  Almost 70% lost! 

 

The danger there is deposit and wear control which looks like it is already winking at you. Tin/Aluminum/chromium. Iron is about average for a Ecotec3 IMHO. Less would be better. 

 

That silicon number caught my attention as well. Change that air filter. 

 

It's lost a bit of viscosity but it well within spec and fuel dilution, while ideal would be zero this number is okay for a GDI motor. 

 

If it were mine, and I know it isn't, I'd be looking for a more robust oil. A 5W30 that has a Porsche C30 certification. Even then I'd check the labs and make it prove to me it can go the distance. You have 49K on this unit. Rings are what the rings are. 

 

A bit of a ramble here: 

 

Oil doesn't just keep parts from touching other parts, It is also the thing that IS or MAKES the seal between the cylinder wall and the ring face. When an oil gets beat up like this in such a short distance I think ring seal, even if it isn't using oil. Something is eating the detergent package quickly. It may also be your driving habits (short hopping) or your environment but whatever it is the oil is under attack and it's losing that battle. 

 

I have no trouble understanding why motors fail cams and rings in short mileages when I see a report like this and think to myself, there are thousands of guys using products like this at 7.5K OCI's that never have labs done. Then they blame the design. 

 

Hey, thanks for submitting this report.  

 

 

 

 

Thanks Grumpy, what sucks is that oil had less than 2k on it so "toasted for some time" makes me say YIKES! GM Delco installed at dealer for oil consumption test.

You know what I have in it now and just passed 500 miles to drop filter, but tore right pec yesterday so everything is on hold.

Air filter has since been cleaned and oiled (RotoFAb)

Very saddened by how this engine is turning out, wifeys old Escalade had a 6.2 140K when we sold it, never any oil consumption to speak of etc.

After I dump this oil I will switch to some high dollar stuff and am planning on the AutoRX with each oil change for the next couple years.

Of course I have 10 quarts of Kirkland 5-30W dexos and 5 quarts of Supertech 0-20W on hand ....lol

Who could have guessed all this $$ for such poor quality, this truck was the most $$ I have ever spent on a vehicle I am 58 years old.

Blah blah

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and input.

 

[Grumpy Bear]

When I was a much younger me, I tuned British motorcycles, Honda 4's and Shovelheads. And at the time I was more than good at it. I had a line to the back forty of people asking me, "Can you make mine run like yours?". And the answer was the same always. Yes, give me the keys and I'll have it back to you in a month or two. An answer always met with shock and surprise. There is a lesson in that that I 're-learned' in the last few years working with a few labs and oil tea leave readers. 

 

No matter what you think it aught do, there is what it will do and no matter how much information your asked for and supply the consultant you are working with will never KNOW that machine like you do. You live with it, you operated it, you service it or at minimum direct that service. So, he/she can never know its 'personally' and its history as you do. 

 

The few a year that took me up on a tune up were never disappointed, but I had to live with that machine awhile to get close to what the owner knew. I'd even go on long rides with them over several outings to get to know them WITH that machine. How they rode and what they saw as good, bad, or were indifferent to. Needless to say, a tuner or any consultant for that matter, cannot make a living tuning like I did so it was not a business. It was a hobby. One that has long since passed me by. No more carburetors. No Kettering ignitions.  

 

I gave you a thirty-thousand-foot view of your report through the clouds. I am NOT a tribologist. I'm just old and seen a few things.  

[Black02Silverado]

Interesting.  Seeing the fuel dilution, although not that high it is still higher than it needs to be. Nitration is good so that is showing that it is efficient on combustion.  TBN being low isn't great at all for the miles on the engine.  To think there are individuals out there that are using this and going 5k or longer. 

 

Doesn't RotoFab make a dry filter?  That would be a better option IMO. If I had to do it all over again, I would have not put the GM cold air intake on mine and just used the stock filter set up and just changed out the tube from the filter box to the intake. Then ran Fram air filters and changed them out every 10k or so.

 

The only thing I use an oiled air filter for is my cabin air filter. So I got a K&N for that.

 

Did you use any fuel additives?  What grade brand fuel?

[Grumpy Bear]

1 hour ago, Black02Silverado said:

Doesn't RotoFab make a dry filter?  That would be a better option IMO.

 

Kind of what I was pointing to earlier. You never have ALL the information BEFORE you give advice. Terry and I beat that dog to death with Dizzy. I wouldn't think to mention, and he wouldn't know to ask. Total cluster. 

 

As a user of K&N filters as a younger me, I agree, a good paper filter is a better choice. You need more flow. Use more area not a looser filter.