Roll n Lock A vs. M Series vs. Bakflip/Linex Lxp (maybe Retrax, too)

calgator73 · March 5

On 3/3/2024 at 11:20 AM, MrLeadFoot said:

A few more question, if you don't mind.

1) I know the Roll n Lock canister is 7 1/4" deep, but nowhere can I find the measurement for much it extends back into the bed from the front bulkhead. I know when it's installed part of it sits on top of the front bulkhead rail, but is there a way for you to measure that and post the measurement?

2) If there is water on all these retractables when you open them wouldn't they get wet all over the inside of the covers by virtue of the water dripping onto the inside of the cover from being rolled up, which would cause them to then drip everywhere in the bed when closed again? (@calgator73, wouldn't that be true of the X4S, as well?)

3) If yes to 2 above, can the Roll n Lock be opened only part way if you want to access something near the back of the bed and closed again, so you don't have the assumed problem in 2 above, or does it HAVE to be opened all the way first to re-engage the latch?

No real issues as the water doesn't pool. It tends to run forward as you roll and spills to the sides and forward bulkhead. If it rains tomorrow I'll get pics of the leaks.

MrLeadFoot · March 5

1 hour ago, GETGONE said:

There's already two drain holes in the front floor of the bed. The tubes that came with my Retrax were too large to fit through the holes, so I found tube that did fit through the holes and used brass barbs to size down the tube from the canister to the smaller bed holes. Coming up on 4 years with no issues.

That's exactly what I was thinking. I guess they style of cover dictates which holes you can use, like maybe some covers allow you to use the holes up higher that have the plastic caps in them.

MrLeadFoot · March 5

31 minutes ago, calgator73 said:

Yep. I'll take a picture tomorrow.

Sweet. Thanks in advance.

Mossyoakglock · March 11

Here is a video of the opening and closing of the cover. At the end you can see how you have to manually close the lock for it to catch at the first locking point.

I also put a picture of how I did my drain tubes. It's just a 90* elbow and then out the bulkhead and down the inside of the bed. I can get a picture if you want it. On my previous truck I have the drain tubes running down to the bottom corners but I found I kept pulling them off the canister when I would put something in the bed. This way they are tucked up and out of the way.

I get your question on the when you roll up the canister and the water getting on the underside. If it does, I honestly haven't noticed it being a problem. I think most of it will slide off the cover into the canister as it's rolled up. If there is any water, it's definitely minimal.

Edited March 11 by Mossyoakglock

MrLeadFoot · March 11

3 hours ago, Mossyoakglock said:

I also put a picture of how I did my drain tubes. It's just a 90* elbow and then out the bulkhead and down the inside of the bed. I can get a picture if you want it.

Thank you for all the info!

I think what you meant to say that you drilled into the front of the bed and routed down between the cab and the bed? Did you run a tube down between the bed and cab, too, or just let the water run down on it's own? I ask, because I thought I read somewhere that you don't want to have the water run freely down because of the cab vents, even though that didn't make sense to me because rain water runs down there anyway. Am I correct in assuming you could not run the tubes into the holes on the walls of the bed because they are too high?

Also, did you by chance remember to measure how far back into the bed the canister sticks out from the front wall?

Thanks again!

Mossyoakglock · March 11

You’re right. I got it backwards. Here are some pictures of how it’s routed between the bed and cab.

When it gets close to the bottom, I ran it inside that c-shaped black filler piece and used some zip ties. The picture is deceiving but the tube is about flush with the bottom of the bed.

As for the canister, it sticks out about 9.5 inches and then has an upward angle that’s sticks out about 11.5 so that’s the furthest it sticks out. As for space between the bed floor and bottom of the canister, that’s about 15.25”.

Edited March 11 by Mossyoakglock

MrLeadFoot · March 11

46 minutes ago, Mossyoakglock said:

You’re right. I got it backwards. Here are some pictures of how it’s routed between the bed and cab.

When it gets close to the bottom, I ran it inside that c-shaped black filler piece and used some zip ties. The picture is deceiving but the tube is about flush with the bottom of the bed.

As for the canister, it sticks out about 9.5 inches and then has an upward angle that’s sticks out about 11.5 so that’s the furthest it sticks out. As for space between the bed floor and bottom of the canister, that’s about 15.25”.

Holy crap, you sure were meticulous running the drain tubes. I assume you made the same effort on both sides? I just wish I could run up to the holes that are already in the bed walls. I'm leaning more and more towards the Roll n Lock for the ease of opening and closing, opposed to flipping panels, and if I pull the trigger, it's certainly nice to see what you did because for some reason I dread drilling additional holes in the bed.

Thank you for the measurements. I'm still kicking myself for not holding out for a standard bed, for the very reason that a canister eats up some bed length space. But yours doesn't LOOK like it eats up much from the back view in the video. Can you sitll use all the front tie downs? Immediate thoughts for me are using them for tying down dog crates. Speaking of which, I assume the canister housing is strong enough to have dog crate pressed right up against the canister housing, but what are your thoughts about the canister housing withstanding something heavy jammed up against it when open-bed hauling?

Edited March 11 by MrLeadFoot

Mossyoakglock · March 12

Ha ha. Yea, I might have gone a little overboard on the drain tubes but I had the 90* elbows already and figured why not. Plus with how high I wanted to route the tubes, the tubes kinked when running them without the elbows. I also didn't want the drain tubes rubbing against the back of the cab (probably wouldn't have been an issue). I wanted to use the holes in the bed walls as well but the RNL brackets use those holes.

You should have enough access to all of the tiedowns but I also bought some tie downs on Amazon for the bedside holes just to have more options.

The canister actually has a shield over the front to protect it. While it's not the strongest it definitely helps and can be replaced it damaged too much. When the canister is fully opened, it sits pretty much flush with the front of that canister shield. If I remember right, I think the Retrax cover overhangs the canister by a few inches. I would think it would be ok to have something jammed against the cover but can't say for sure how sturdy it would be for long periods of time.

Hopefully these pictures help answer some of your questions.

**Edit - not sure why it's making these pictures so big and only letting me put one or two per post**

Edited March 14 by Mossyoakglock

Mossyoakglock · March 12

Mossyoakglock · March 12

MrLeadFoot · March 12

3 hours ago, Mossyoakglock said:

Ha ha. Yea, I might have gone a little overboard on the drain tubes but I had the 90* elbows already and figured why not. Plus with how high I wanted to route the tubes, the tubes kinked when running them without the elbows. I also didn't want the drain tubes rubbing against the back of the cab (probably wouldn't have been an issue). I wanted to use the holes in the bed walls as well but the RNL brackets use those holes.

You should have enough access to all of the tiedowns but I also bought some tie downs on Amazon for the bedside holes just to have more options.

The canister actually has a shield over the front to protect it. While it's not the strongest it definitely helps and can be replaced it damaged too much. When the canister is fully opened, it sits pretty much flush with the front of that canister shield. If I remember right, I think the Retrax cover overhangs the canister by a few inches. I would think it would be ok to have something jammed against the cover but can't say for sure how sturdy it would be for long periods of time.

Hopefully these pictures help answer some of your questions.

**Edit - not sure why it's making these pictures so big and only letting me put one or two per post**

What is this pic of?

And, yes, I don't like how the Retrax cover takes up even MORE room, the way the cover doesn't retract all the way like Roll n Lock does. So, the canister is hunge, AND it eats up even more room in the bed by virtue of that cover sticking so far out into the bed.

Thanks for additional the pics of the canister "shield", and the view of the stock tie downs. That really shows how much less room the RNL canister takes up.

BTW, I meant to ask if you have the short bed, because seeing your video showed the stop positions well, and those stops look like decent points to stop at. Based on how it LOOKS like the latching system works, I would THINK it wouldnt be that hard to mod the tracks a bit to add more stop positions if someone really wanted to.

Thanks for the additional info on the canister using the stock holes in sides of the bed. Using elbows for routing to the drain holes was a smart idea. I noticed you also used some kind of bushing in the drain holes you made. What did you use for those?

Edited March 12 by MrLeadFoot

Mossyoakglock · March 13

I have the shortbed. On the stopping positions, I think it can be done. I'm not sure if it was on a GM truck, but I remember seeing a how-to and video where somebody did this. I'll see if I can find it.

The bushing is just a grommet so the tube didn't rub on the cut metal of the hole. Before I put the grommet in, I cleaned up the edges as best I could and coated it with touch-up paint and a little silicone.

MrLeadFoot · March 15

On 3/13/2024 at 7:22 AM, Mossyoakglock said:

I have the shortbed. On the stopping positions, I think it can be done. I'm not sure if it was on a GM truck, but I remember seeing a how-to and video where somebody did this. I'll see if I can find it.

The bushing is just a grommet so the tube didn't rub on the cut metal of the hole. Before I put the grommet in, I cleaned up the edges as best I could and coated it with touch-up paint and a little silicone.

Thanks again!

MrLeadFoot · March 15

On 3/13/2024 at 7:22 AM, Mossyoakglock said:

I have the shortbed. On the stopping positions, I think it can be done. I'm not sure if it was on a GM truck, but I remember seeing a how-to and video where somebody did this. I'll see if I can find it.

Is this the video, or is there another one you were referring to? Look at 14 minutes into this video.

MrLeadFoot · March 15

On 3/11/2024 at 7:35 AM, Mossyoakglock said:

...you have to manually close the lock for it to catch at the first locking point.

I forgot to ask, do you have to use the key to lock the latch in order for it to stay in all the positions, even closed all the way? In other words, I understand to have it locked you need to use the key, but what about when there's nothing in the bed? Can you unlock it, remove the key, and then simply use the handle (or whatever you call it) to latch and unlatch the cover, and have the latch stay latched in the partial and fully closed positions, without the key?