Jump to content
  • Sign Up

Recommended Posts

The most interesting part of that video is the part that shows the 0W16 having the most robust AW package but also having the largest wear scar. 

 

More interesting is that this fact will sail right over 99% of the heads that debate oil. 

 

😱

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/9/2023 at 4:56 PM, Big_Kahuna said:

hello fellows , I wander if anyone is using 0w40 oil in the 6.2 engines , I know corvette is using 0w40 I dont see why can Sierra or silverado use it,

project farm just had a video made same brand oil just 4 different  viscosity and shocker the thin oil make the most damage 

 

 

 

I suppose one could.  the LT1 and the L87 use the same oil pumps.  Both have a variant of cylinder deactivation and use the same lifters so its possible that this could be done.  You could also run 5w30 I bet as well since the LT1 from 2014-2018 ran 5w30.  

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/9/2023 at 4:56 PM, Big_Kahuna said:

hello fellows , I wander if anyone is using 0w40 oil in the 6.2 engines , I know corvette is using 0w40 I dont see why can Sierra or silverado use it,

project farm just had a video made same brand oil just 4 different  viscosity and shocker the thin oil make the most damage 

 

 

Project Farm can't be taken seriously.  Engine oil need to be tested in actual engines and torn down to evaluate actual wear performance.  Simple bench tests are entertaining, but that's about it.  

 

Mobil 1 FS 0w40 and Supercar (formerly ESP) 0w40 are two good options you could run in the 6.2L.  I'd opt for the Supercar oil as it is Mid SAPS (SA of .80) and a HT/HS of 3.5.  It sits right on the 30 and 40 grade KV.  

Edited by TunaFresh
Link to comment
Share on other sites

People act like oil has never been tested. Like wear studies have never been done. That every time one buys a new vehicle they must start from a knowledge of ground zero. Ever few years someone asks the question, and all previous knowledge is cast in doubt. How do people feed themselves? :crackup:

 

The term "Advancement" is used like "Better". Without knowledge. ASK...in what way is this oil ADVANCED! 

 

It ADVANCES a goal is the answer. It advances the goals of economy and by extension emissions. There is nothing wrong with those goals but the idea that you can have them and not sacrifice reliability is pure alchemy.

 

Viscosity keeps parts from touching parts. If you could prevent wear with chemistry, in the WAY, they IMPLY you'd run your car on additives and not oil. Add's are 'situational' enhancements, not replacements.  

 

Yes, you can run 0W40 in it. You can even run 5W40 in it year around. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/11/2023 at 4:12 PM, Black02Silverado said:

I'll add to this thought.  :lol:

 

 

 

I rest my case :crackup:Requirements of "Law", not physics are at play in what 'can' be used. "Can" meaning legally. Has nothing to do with the motor's requirements or anything else. And so much for "It will mess up the VVT or AFM/DFM". Rubish. 0W20 in a 6.2 pickup is a legal thing for the EPA certification. 

 

He does not understand the nature of a positive displacement pump. It's kind of in the name. Unless something breaks that full displacement of oil is going where it is channeled.

 

In the Gen 1 SBC where the bypass was built into the upstream side of the filter what he said is true. It's been a while since a SBC used that layout.  

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

43 minutes ago, Big_Kahuna said:

one more update early morning cold start engine sounds very smooth , so far so good ,I think this 6.2 love little ticker oil .

 

Hope I'm not overstepping your boundaries here, but I have a suggestion. If you are going to use this oil change it about every 2.5K to 3K. These dry Dexos1Gen3 licensed oils cannot keep a motor clean at the recommended OCI's and the Gen3 oils have ever smaller add packs than the Gen2 oils. These adds are sacrificial. Using them in a motor with AFM/DFM even at 5K is rolling dice at a crooked game. However, 2.5 to 3K will go a very long time. I know there isn't much difference between 2.5 and 3 but 2.5 keeps things on 5K intervals (2X2.5) for rotations and other services. Just my OCD playing.  :)

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

46 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Hope I'm not overstepping your boundaries here, but I have a suggestion. If you are going to use this oil change it about every 2.5K to 3K. These dry Dexos1Gen3 licensed oils cannot keep a motor clean at the recommended OCI's and the Gen3 oils have ever smaller add packs than the Gen2 oils. These adds are sacrificial. Using them in a motor with AFM/DFM even at 5K is rolling dice at a crooked game. However, 2.5 to 3K will go a very long time. I know there isn't much difference between 2.5 and 3 but 2.5 keeps things on 5K intervals (2X2.5) for rotations and other services. Just my OCD playing.  :)

 

 

 

 

I’m going on 4 years with my avalanche. I didn’t think it was possible with its gauge package. After 3K miles my cold and warm oil pressure drops. It’s within specs so no worries. I usually change it shortly after. The original owner did 3K oil changes, the oil is always clean. It just passed 3K on this oil and dropped again. All different oils. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Hope I'm not overstepping your boundaries here, but I have a suggestion. If you are going to use this oil change it about every 2.5K to 3K. These dry Dexos1Gen3 licensed oils cannot keep a motor clean at the recommended OCI's and the Gen3 oils have ever smaller add packs than the Gen2 oils. These adds are sacrificial. Using them in a motor with AFM/DFM even at 5K is rolling dice at a crooked game. However, 2.5 to 3K will go a very long time. I know there isn't much difference between 2.5 and 3 but 2.5 keeps things on 5K intervals (2X2.5) for rotations and other services. Just my OCD playing.  :)

 

to be honest I have been changing at around 3k so far 

what oil you are recommending ,

 

 

 

to be honest I have been changing at around 3k so far 

what oil you are recommending ,

Edited by Big_Kahuna
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Big_Kahuna said:

to be honest I have been changing at around 3k so far 

what oil you are recommending ,

 

As you've Vis'd up 😉 Your choice, Valvoline 5W30 is solid for 3K. If it were mine, I'd replace a quart of the change with HPL SAE30-EC. Adds polarity via some esters which helps keep her clean and seals last longer. Modest cost increase. 

 

IF you would like to go 5K then my first choice is always Red Line HP 5W30. Already a polar oil. PAO/POE. I like this oil for AFM/DM. Clean and great antifoam. Foam is a kller in these motors. 

 

Second choice for 5K would be High Performance Lubricants Premium Plus 0W40. The 5W30 is on the light side of the HTHS values I personally prefer. (3.5 minimum). But still way better that any 0W20. Polarity matters as does a solid HTHS. This one is a POE/AN/ Various blended Esters.  

 

The longer OCI will soften the increase in price. 

 

This (photo below) is my motor on 5K OCI's and Red Line HP 5W30 at 166.4K miles. I used other grades/weights, but the basic base package is the same. PAO/POE. It now has 175K on it and still quite as a church mouse. Never have to add oil. 

 

 

 

 

image.thumb.jpeg.a5892e80aa9ca969595c572462de83b5.jpeg

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.