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Brand New 2023 Silverado RST dead in the driveway


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I ran into the same problem with my one-month old 2023 LZO/NHT.  All was fine for the first 3 weeks, and then out of the blue on that Saturday morning of Memorial Day weekend, I went out and the battery was dead.  Very strange.  Pulled out the battery charger and let it go for about an hour, and it started.  I then had an hour long drive, so I brought the battery charger and jump cables just in case, but it's been fine ever since.

 

I did however, just purchase a NOCO GBX55 1750amp Jump starter for peace of mind.

Edited by MrMagloo
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40 minutes ago, MrMagloo said:

I ran into the same problem with my one-month old 2023 LZO/NHT.  All was fine for the first 3 weeks, and then out of the blue on that Saturday morning of Memorial Day, I went out and the battery was dead.  Very strange.  Pulled out the battery charger and let it go for about an hour, and it started.  I then had an hour long drive, so I brought the battery charger and jump cables just in case, but it's been fine ever since.

 

I did however, just purchase a NOCO GBX55 1750amp Jump starter for peace of mind.

Did you use remote start at all?  My blower fan was stuck on. Had to disconnect battery to stop it.

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5 hours ago, Mike Duhaime said:

Did you use remote start at all?  My blower fan was stuck on. Had to disconnect battery to stop it.

I don't think so. At first I thought it might have been my iDash, but it doesn't appear to be related.

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I have a 23 RST and also had a dead battery at around 1500 miles. Took it in, they tested it and said the battery was bad and put in a new one.  Haven't had issues since but do keep a lithium jump pack with me at all times. My theory is that some trucks sat around waiting for parts/modules for an extended period and affected the battery. 

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1 hour ago, Wild Warg said:

I have a 23 RST and also had a dead battery at around 1500 miles. Took it in, they tested it and said the battery was bad and put in a new one.  Haven't had issues since but do keep a lithium jump pack with me at all times. My theory is that some trucks sat around waiting for parts/modules for an extended period and affected the battery. 

U.S. dealerships use the Battery Maintenance Report to identify vehicles in dealer inventory that require attention. (Fig. 1) The report, which is updated every day, indicates if a battery charge is required due to a low 12V battery state of charge or if the vehicle should be moved to help prevent tire flat spotting and brake corrosion.

 

GM recommends that dealerships monitor the report once per week. The report is available through the Maxis for Dealers app link on GlobalConnect. In the app, select the Battery Maintenance Report tile. Keep in mind that the report updates every day; however, each vehicle sends updates only once every five days, so it may take up to five calendar days for the vehicle to be removed from the report after the dealership takes action on a vehicle. (Fig. 2)

 

 

Vehicles on the report that require a battery charge should be charged using the EL-52800 Diagnostic Charge Battery Station (DCBS) or the EL-50313 Midtronics GR8 Battery Tester/Charger. For vehicles with two batteries, each battery should be individually charged.

Additional information about the Battery Maintenance Report can be found in updated Bulletin #22-NA-115. It provides an overview of the battery maintenance process as well as a variety of Frequently Asked Questions, ranging from criteria that qualifies a VIN to appear on a report to the actions a dealership needs to take and what to do if a battery fails testing.

 

 

As indicated by the above info, battery state of charge is a concern for vehicles that are seldom used. If you are using the vehicle infrequently then the battery is going to become a problem as all the electrical features need power and if it sits, the battery is going to get depleted.  Common sense!

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 6/1/2023 at 7:19 PM, Lisa Anderson said:

2023 Silverado 1500 RST 6.2L with max tow-package 220 amp alternator.  I never leave lights on, or leave the phone or any other device plugged in the truck etc.  I have less than 2500 miles on the truck and have been stuck with a battery too low to crank the starter twice in warm coastal Virginia temps. The weak battery issues started within the first two weeks of ownership. In the beginning, the noted issue was the factory radio cutting output to the speakers, at what seemed random times while I was driving.  It didn't matter what source, iPhone, Am/FM/satellite, there would suddenly be no sound for any features at all like navigation etc...  it would come back on after the truck was turned off and restarted sometime later.  I didn't know what was going on with that.  I was told the truck is programmed to cut non-essential accessories when battery power is low, ok, but why is my battery power low? After learning that the speaker cut out was possibly related to the battery charge I began to pay attention the the battery meter on the dash, sure enough, somewhere between the first quarter and the normal mid mark is where sound would cut out.

 

 I had the dealer check my battery out last time I called roadside assistance due to a too dead to crank battery and I was fed the same line others have mentioned about how the battery and alternator are fine, but I need to drive my truck more to give the alternator the chance to charge the battery back up. They also told me to have the aftermarket stereo amp installer check out the wiring as it could be a parasitic draw...but the problem began before the amplifier was installed...no explanation for that. 

 

I do drive short distances, I work at a hospital 3 miles from my house, I work 12 hour shifts.  I basically drive to WalMart, Home Depot and Tractor Supply, maybe TJMaxx if I score a hot date with the hubby, everything is less than 5 miles from home, I can't help it, I'm simple and love living a small town life.   I'm putting like 100 miles a week on the truck unless I am towing the camper out of town.  Driving more than I am required to for my needs is not an acceptable solution to the problem.  Having to plug my truck into a battery maintainer every night is not an acceptable solution to the problem.  I think those kinds of suggestions are lazy brush-offs. When the service department said that, I felt what they were really saying between the lines is that they don't value my time or safety enough to look into it any further, I'm on my own.  The truck, as originally equipped, is not presently able to power all the electronic functions they've loaded into it.  It isn't working as advertised, so to speak. The paranoid conspiracy theorist inside me wonders how much of the problem maybe wireless data collection behind the scenes- you know...just when is the My Chevrolet app getting my vehicle data?  Is google tracking everywhere I drive?  How much power does the endless privacy invasion require and is it occurring when the vehicle is shut off? Will a tinfoil hat help?

 

I have tried driving with start/stop always turned off, I never put my phone on the charger, I completely disconnected my aftermarket stereo amp. Did this, not using multiple featured factory Chevy conveninence options sold to me for two weeks, this included a 175 mile day trip and two extra 50 mile shopping trips I didn't need to make but did just to see if the alternator could "catch up" with the extra miles .  Nothing changed. The truck dash battery meter shows center/normal before I shut the ignition off, the next time I go to start the truck, whether it's 12 hours or 12 minutes later, the battery meter is down to the first quarter and it takes a long time to get back to center...again without running any elective electronic features, and with nothing plugged into any outlets. Every single day is the same story. I got mad because I couldn't improve the situation even with going without things I wanted to use, so I said F-it, and hooked my amp back up...of course after a few hours, the speaker feed signal cuts out again because the battery is low so I still have no music.

 

Personally (anectodally/gut-feeling/no engineering knowledge/empiric data or psychic powers involved) I think it may be that GM put an insufficient battery in, I suspect every manufacturer puts crappy/minimal batteries in these days.  I had a similar problem with my previous 2018 Honda CRV; the original factory battery drained slowly, constantly, to the point it wouldn't start like once every two or three weeks, phantom parasitic draws with absolutely nothing but the original facotry equipment and diligence with ensuring everything that can be manually turned off was off every time I shut the car off.  For the CRV, I put a Die Hard platinum AGM battery in and never had a problem again, my son is still driving it and hasn't had any problems.  This is what I'm trying for the truck next, though I'm having a hard time looking for the right size battery and understanding what is more important for my issue...I don't think it's the cranking amps I need to worry as much about, I'm inclined to think its the amp hours and reserve capacity that I should pay the most attention to, but I'm not sure.  I also don't like that one auto parts store says a battery they have is an exact match for my truck but that manuafacturer's (Optima)website says they DONT have an exact match.  I wish someone could tell me what a good battery is and which specific one can drop right into my truck so that the person at the auto parts store will actually do it for me.

 

If a new/better battery doesn't fix the problem I honestly don't know what I'll do, I'm upset about having this issue at all, like really upset, to the point it has soured my overall opinion of the truck as a whole...yes I can still lay a nice strip of rubber at the stop light if I am so inclined but I can't annoy the outdoor patrons of the corner brew-pub with 1300 watts of Lynyrd Skynyrd.   I don't want to lose my temper with people, even ones who patronize me- I don't like making a fuss, I just want it to work the way it is supposed to. If I go back into the shop with the same trouble and get told to drive more miles or use a trickle charger again I fear I could blow a mental gasket. I'll either cry like someone killed my kitten or set the place on fire, it's anyone's guess at that point.  The entire reason I bought this truck was so I could take my camper out nice an easy- Memorial Day weekend I cancelled my trip because I was afraid of getting stuck with a dead battery in a remote location with no cell service...a couple hundred miles from our old and reliable 2012 Silverado.  I'm pissed off I have to call my husband to bring the old Silverado out to the hospital late at night to jump my brand new one. His truck sits undriven for weeks at a time with a eight+ year old battery in it and it cranks every time...even with an aftermarket stereo amp in it.  it's making me sad that I hold more love and respect in my heart for the old 2012 Silverado than this new one I paid literally 2X the money for. 

 

Is there anything else I should try to resolve the battery drain?  I want to love this truck so much, but right now I just feel like a fool for having bought it!

The problem is not your driving . It’s the vehicles charge control system. The dealers tech are not up the the electrical diagnostics standards they need to have. The first thing I want to address is the battery is more than likely not your problem . If it needs to be replaced it’s the result of low charging from the alternator which is controlled by the ECM or the BCM that manages the rate of charge. This is monitored by sensors which one is located on the negative battery cable terminal. This system is not that complicated to diagnose. I would take it back to the dealer and tell them to return it when it’s fixed. Also send a certified letter to Chevrolet corporate office telling them what you’ve said here CC the state attorney and / attorney general for your state. I bet they will have it fix quickly and back to you. If I was in your area I would be able to test that system for you and pinpoint the problem. Reach out to my if you need more help. Keep us updated on this issue please

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  • 2 months later...

Well, it happened again - And to put aside the infrequent use thought - I drive this truck 30-50 miles every day.

 

Got home Monday evening, parked normally, and went out on Tuesday the next day and it just turned over one revolution, then the entire dash started blinking on and off.  I put the 15a automatic charger on 10 hours ago and it's still charging.

 

This is the second time now 5 months. Very irritating. 

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44 minutes ago, MrMagloo said:

Well, it happened again - And to put aside the infrequent use thought - I drive this truck 30-50 miles every day.

 

Got home Monday evening, parked normally, and went out on Tuesday the next day and it just turned over one revolution, then the entire dash started blinking on and off.  I put the 15a automatic charger on 10 hours ago and it's still charging.

 

This is the second time now 5 months. Very irritating. 

This is certainly not what we like to hear, MrMagloo.  Please know, customer satisfaction is extremely important to us. Our team would be more than happy to take a closer look into the concerns with your 2023 Chevrolet Silverado RST having a hard time to start up. To do so, please send an email to [email protected] with ATTN: MrMagloo/GM Trucks in the subject line.

Please include your contact information, VIN, a brief description of your concern, and the name of your preferred dealership. We look forward to hearing from you. To learn more about GM’s Privacy Policy, please visit https://www.gm.com/privacy-statement.html. The information you provide may be monitored and recorded and is subject to the GM Privacy Statement.
 
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/1/2023 at 7:19 PM, Lisa Anderson said:

2023 Silverado 1500 RST 6.2L with max tow-package 220 amp alternator.  I never leave lights on, or leave the phone or any other device plugged in the truck etc.  I have less than 2500 miles on the truck and have been stuck with a battery too low to crank the starter twice in warm coastal Virginia temps. The weak battery issues started within the first two weeks of ownership. In the beginning, the noted issue was the factory radio cutting output to the speakers, at what seemed random times while I was driving.  It didn't matter what source, iPhone, Am/FM/satellite, there would suddenly be no sound for any features at all like navigation etc...  it would come back on after the truck was turned off and restarted sometime later.  I didn't know what was going on with that.  I was told the truck is programmed to cut non-essential accessories when battery power is low, ok, but why is my battery power low? After learning that the speaker cut out was possibly related to the battery charge I began to pay attention the the battery meter on the dash, sure enough, somewhere between the first quarter and the normal mid mark is where sound would cut out.

 

 I had the dealer check my battery out last time I called roadside assistance due to a too dead to crank battery and I was fed the same line others have mentioned about how the battery and alternator are fine, but I need to drive my truck more to give the alternator the chance to charge the battery back up. They also told me to have the aftermarket stereo amp installer check out the wiring as it could be a parasitic draw...but the problem began before the amplifier was installed...no explanation for that. 

 

I do drive short distances, I work at a hospital 3 miles from my house, I work 12 hour shifts.  I basically drive to WalMart, Home Depot and Tractor Supply, maybe TJMaxx if I score a hot date with the hubby, everything is less than 5 miles from home, I can't help it, I'm simple and love living a small town life.   I'm putting like 100 miles a week on the truck unless I am towing the camper out of town.  Driving more than I am required to for my needs is not an acceptable solution to the problem.  Having to plug my truck into a battery maintainer every night is not an acceptable solution to the problem.  I think those kinds of suggestions are lazy brush-offs. When the service department said that, I felt what they were really saying between the lines is that they don't value my time or safety enough to look into it any further, I'm on my own.  The truck, as originally equipped, is not presently able to power all the electronic functions they've loaded into it.  It isn't working as advertised, so to speak. The paranoid conspiracy theorist inside me wonders how much of the problem maybe wireless data collection behind the scenes- you know...just when is the My Chevrolet app getting my vehicle data?  Is google tracking everywhere I drive?  How much power does the endless privacy invasion require and is it occurring when the vehicle is shut off? Will a tinfoil hat help?

 

I have tried driving with start/stop always turned off, I never put my phone on the charger, I completely disconnected my aftermarket stereo amp. Did this, not using multiple featured factory Chevy conveninence options sold to me for two weeks, this included a 175 mile day trip and two extra 50 mile shopping trips I didn't need to make but did just to see if the alternator could "catch up" with the extra miles .  Nothing changed. The truck dash battery meter shows center/normal before I shut the ignition off, the next time I go to start the truck, whether it's 12 hours or 12 minutes later, the battery meter is down to the first quarter and it takes a long time to get back to center...again without running any elective electronic features, and with nothing plugged into any outlets. Every single day is the same story. I got mad because I couldn't improve the situation even with going without things I wanted to use, so I said F-it, and hooked my amp back up...of course after a few hours, the speaker feed signal cuts out again because the battery is low so I still have no music.

 

Personally (anectodally/gut-feeling/no engineering knowledge/empiric data or psychic powers involved) I think it may be that GM put an insufficient battery in, I suspect every manufacturer puts crappy/minimal batteries in these days.  I had a similar problem with my previous 2018 Honda CRV; the original factory battery drained slowly, constantly, to the point it wouldn't start like once every two or three weeks, phantom parasitic draws with absolutely nothing but the original facotry equipment and diligence with ensuring everything that can be manually turned off was off every time I shut the car off.  For the CRV, I put a Die Hard platinum AGM battery in and never had a problem again, my son is still driving it and hasn't had any problems.  This is what I'm trying for the truck next, though I'm having a hard time looking for the right size battery and understanding what is more important for my issue...I don't think it's the cranking amps I need to worry as much about, I'm inclined to think its the amp hours and reserve capacity that I should pay the most attention to, but I'm not sure.  I also don't like that one auto parts store says a battery they have is an exact match for my truck but that manuafacturer's (Optima)website says they DONT have an exact match.  I wish someone could tell me what a good battery is and which specific one can drop right into my truck so that the person at the auto parts store will actually do it for me.

 

If a new/better battery doesn't fix the problem I honestly don't know what I'll do, I'm upset about having this issue at all, like really upset, to the point it has soured my overall opinion of the truck as a whole...yes I can still lay a nice strip of rubber at the stop light if I am so inclined but I can't annoy the outdoor patrons of the corner brew-pub with 1300 watts of Lynyrd Skynyrd.   I don't want to lose my temper with people, even ones who patronize me- I don't like making a fuss, I just want it to work the way it is supposed to. If I go back into the shop with the same trouble and get told to drive more miles or use a trickle charger again I fear I could blow a mental gasket. I'll either cry like someone killed my kitten or set the place on fire, it's anyone's guess at that point.  The entire reason I bought this truck was so I could take my camper out nice an easy- Memorial Day weekend I cancelled my trip because I was afraid of getting stuck with a dead battery in a remote location with no cell service...a couple hundred miles from our old and reliable 2012 Silverado.  I'm pissed off I have to call my husband to bring the old Silverado out to the hospital late at night to jump my brand new one. His truck sits undriven for weeks at a time with a eight+ year old battery in it and it cranks every time...even with an aftermarket stereo amp in it.  it's making me sad that I hold more love and respect in my heart for the old 2012 Silverado than this new one I paid literally 2X the money for. 

 

Is there anything else I should try to resolve the battery drain?  I want to love this truck so much, but right now I just feel like a fool for having bought it!

 

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Lisa, I feel your pain.  GM (Chevy) has done nothing but pass the buck as far as repairing any of their problems.  Telling someone with a brand new vehicle that they just paid a fortune for that they need to drive it more to keep the battery charged is just trash.  Also telling anyone that they need to keep putting it on a battery maintainer is also ridiculous.  They are putting inferior materials on these overpriced vehicles to increase their profits so that they can pay their CEO millions of dollars a year.  I have had the battery issue on a brand new 2022 Silverado three weeks after purchasing it.  It dawned on me on the way to the dealership the day after the issue that the truck did an update the evening before.  When I suggested to the service manager about the update, he agreed that it  might have been the reason for the drain of the battery.  Another issue that I have dealt with is a blown tire which is a Bridgestone Duellar A/T with 3500 miles on it.  I have spoke to two different service managers who both agree that GM is  putting a special lower quality tire on their new vehicles.  Lower quality but higher priced.  My local tire dealer who I have been dealing with for over 20 years was shocked when he saw the invoice for the replacement tire (over $300 his cost) but he said that it was so much because it has OEM next to the product codes.  GM needs to be held accountable for these issues but no one seems to care.  We are the fools that suffer. And good luck with their "Customer Service" (lack of service).  I have been told at least 5 times that someone would get back in touch with me but I'm still waiting (but not holding my breath).  They are irresponsible liars that are not held responsible for their failures. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well as an update, it happened again.  Drove the truck all weekend, and used it Monday. Went to open the door yesterday and it was so dead the door wouldn't open without the FOB key.  I just called to have the dealer flatbed it in.  Very irritating. Yes GM Cust Svc, I gave them the case number provided.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I ran across this article and am wondering if there's something similar causing a draw on the BCM due to a plug or wiring harness issue. Obviously trucks don't have a 3rd row seat, but perhaps something to do with the tailgate or the electronic parking brake? There might be a bunch of other systems that rely on something to shut them down when the vehicle is turned off. Since this seems to have been happening to multiple people mostly on the 22+ refresh trucks, perhaps there is something GM hasn't discovered yet. If you could find a dealer to perform the battery draw procedure, it might lead them to something to resolve this issue.

 

https://gmauthority.com/blog/2023/10/here-may-be-why-your-gmc-yukon-has-a-low-or-dead-battery/

 

 

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Today's batteries made with recycled lead are hit or miss junk. 

Don't assume your new truck has a battery that is no different than a replacement aftermarket battery. There are only a few battery manufacturers in the country, and it depends on who is making them this month also. 

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Fwiw, I got the truck back and they replaced the battery and called it good. After 5 episodes of finding a dead battery, no doubt the original was being effected. However, it sure would have been nice to figure out the root cause on how a perfectly good battery starts the truck all month long, then the next day its so dead the doors won't even unlock.  We will see how the next few weeks go.

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