2500 aftermarket shocks

Jagerschnapps1 · April 4, 2023

Is anyone running aftermarket shocks on a stock 2500 with 20” wheels? If so what are you running and how do you like them? Did you notice an improvement over stock?

XY74 · April 4, 2023

I changed mine out for Bilstein 4600s. Definitely noticed a difference, better control over bumps especially with a trailer on the back. Wife noticed nothing.

Epsilon Plus · April 9, 2023

I put Bilstein 5100s on. They are a little softer feeling than the harsh Ranchos but I'm still on stock OEM garbage spec Firestones and I think they have a lot to do with transmitting the jolts. Hoping that with the 5100s and some better retail spec rubber that the truck lightens up from its shopping cart ride. Torsion bars and leaf springs and 7,000#s and what can we really expect though. With no coils on any corner I don't think it will ever achieve "pleasant".

Wxman · April 9, 2023

I have also installed the B4600s. Certainly noticed less 'movement' both loaded and empty. I much prefer the ride over the stock shocks. Huge difference when towing the RV.

NWStever · April 9, 2023

So I'm in process of R&R'ing the stock Ranchos with B4600s. The rears were quick and easy to swap out and the right front (passenger side) looks to be straightforward. However the left front (driver side) looks like it may be a struggle because access to the top fasteners is partially blocked by both the inner fender liner (the pressed rat fur type) and a loom covered wire bundle that is zip tied along side the upper mount. Though I was able to swap the rears out without lifting the truck, I will have to lift the truck and remove the front wheels to provide good access for the front shock swap. But I'm still concerned by the liner and wire bundle on the left side limiting top fastener access and making what should be an easy job into an aggravation. I have a diesel with dual batteries and the driver side battery blocks access to the fasteners from the top.

So my question to those who have gone before me, did you discover a procedure to minimize difficulty with the left front shock swap?

TIA

XY74 · April 10, 2023

It looks worse than it is. Get in there with a small pry bar and pry up on the wire loom. It is fastened to the top of the bolts that hold the shock on with a cap that goes over the stud. Once you get some room, you can get in with an open end wrench 1/3 of a turn at a time.

NWStever · April 11, 2023

An open end wrench at 1/3 rev will be on the aggravating side of the experience. Nevertheless thanks for the information regarding wire loom fastening. Hopefully it will be straight-forward and easy to secure the bundle after the shock has been replaced. I need to use the pry bar to lift the inner fender up far enough to see the details of the stud caps you mention.

Cheers

XY74 · April 11, 2023

It will all become apparent once you start prying. Caps popped right back on for me. Might be able to get a racheting box wrench on it.

NWStever · April 11, 2023

Yeah ratcheting box end wrench will be what I use assuming the nut size is covered by what is already in my tool box.

Dunn · April 13, 2023

anything will be an improvement.........ranchos fade fairly quickly anyway

king, fox, bilstein, and lift co proprietary brands.......

will probably just go Eibach as not wanting to dump big coin nor lift the truck, just something more controlled.......i have a box of Eibachs 2.0 pro truck lift series for 22 1500 trucks i never threw on, so will probably just trade them out, my neighbor has them and they ride really nice......

seeing how Bilstein is a digressive valved design i could see how they would do really well for towing though, i had a set on 1500 truck and they were good, small stuff was bit siffer but overall better than stock for sure

Edited April 13, 2023 by Dunn

Epsilon Plus · April 14, 2023

On 4/10/2023 at 6:18 PM, NWStever said:

An open end wrench at 1/3 rev will be on the aggravating side of the experience. Nevertheless thanks for the information regarding wire loom fastening. Hopefully it will be straight-forward and easy to secure the bundle after the shock has been replaced. I need to use the pry bar to lift the inner fender up far enough to see the details of the stud caps you mention.

Cheers

You don't even need to pry them up. Just start going with an open end wrench and the upward movement of the nut will force them off without damaging the plastic inner teeth. They'll pop back on after.