2022 GMC Sierra 1500 and others BCM footwell lighting pinout - Denali Doorsill Install Info

[matt99199]

On 1/28/2023 at 7:38 PM, RafaelLujan said:

Im trying to install the same illuminated door sills on my 2022 Refresh Denali as well and this thread is definitely helpful! I do have one question though on how the wire harness that comes with the door sills gets its power.
 

There is a grey wire on the harness that has some sort of connector. If I’m understanding your thread correctly, I literally just pull the black X1 connector from the BCM, open it up and push the connector from the wiring harness into the “1” slot? No t tapping or anything like that with this harness? Thank you for your help!

Sorry for the late response but yes its that simple. Just getting to it is a pain and dealing with that locking clip.

[matt99199]

On 1/30/2023 at 7:24 PM, Chronister Enterprises said:

I have tried for an hour to get the wire from the sill into the #1 port on the black X1 and it goes in but you cannot put the plastic retainer on it. I have flipped it over multiple time to try different angels. Not sure why this picture shows a different port than number 1. Any suggestions on how to get it pushed in far enough to get in the white retainer clip?

The picture was reference only on the process since I had another type easily accessible. These pins are sometimes very difficult to get that final push and may require a very small flat head to chase behind and drive home (or use some needle nose gently on the wire to put some force into it to get it to seat).

Also make sure that locking tab is either fully removed or properly popped out enough.

What can also happen is that raw exposed pin they have flapping around in the box can get ever so slightly bent and make it harder to insert.

[matt99199]

On 10/12/2022 at 5:25 PM, RedLT said:

The pin 1 does it output 12v?

When you remove yours can you get pics and give details how you went about removing the lock, I've not removed one before so any tips or know how  on the actual one on the vehicle will be most appreciated.

After using this pin a while I can confirm its a 12V PWM dimmed signal. It may or may not be a good idea to use a relay with it as it could induce audible relay chattering. Probably OK but havent tested it.

I ended up running my door sills and 4 seats of footwell lights no issue directly however.

Edited March 3, 2023 by matt99199

[matt99199]

On 1/31/2023 at 7:53 AM, RafaelLujan said:

 

I haven't started my install of these yet, but when you push the gray wire terminal into the X1 #1 port, are you getting the "click" sound when the terminal locks in to the x1 connector? This is what I would think would happen 

 

It may or may not click, the real test is if light force wont cause it to come out and if the locking tab reseats perfectly flush again to the connector housing.

[matt99199]

Sorry all, for some reason I didnt have notifications turned on for my own post....

I'll share some finished product pics soon.

[matt99199]

I found out Molex now allows you to buy the terminal if you are doing your own custom footwell lights, just FYI.

https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_terminals/2000963101

[matt99199]

This is how my install turned out, T tapped off of the door sills once installed and put RGB strip with a fancy controller for it all. Turned out great.

 

[luke1333]

On 3/13/2023 at 8:49 PM, matt99199 said:

This is how my install turned out, T tapped off of the door sills once installed and put RGB strip with a fancy controller for it all. Turned out great.

 

Looks awesome what led kit did you use if you don't mind sharing!

[matt99199]

31 minutes ago, luke1333 said:

Looks awesome what led kit did you use if you don't mind sharing!

Made it custom. 

I kind of took it to an extreme...

I bought a known good company LED strip, wasn't happy with the LED current vs voltage performance (vehicle load dump voltages would have destroyed the LEDs over time), changed out all the SMD resistors to values I calculated, cut them to length along with some tick ABS plastic strips and mounted everything with zip ties.

Also sprayed the strips with conformal coating to waterproof them.

Then also hacked an existing RGB controller and added my own connectors that latch, did some other tweaks internally, etc.

Kind of went overboard but they probably make kits that fit well enough.

 

I could take pictures underneath if interested to show where and how I mounted them.

Edited June 2, 2023 by matt99199

[luke1333]

On 6/1/2023 at 8:55 PM, matt99199 said:

Made it custom. 

I kind of took it to an extreme...

I bought a known good company LED strip, wasn't happy with the LED current vs voltage performance (vehicle load dump voltages would have destroyed the LEDs over time), changed out all the SMD resistors to values I calculated, cut them to length along with some tick ABS plastic strips and mounted everything with zip ties.

Also sprayed the strips with conformal coating to waterproof them.

Then also hacked an existing RGB controller and added my own connectors that latch, did some other tweaks internally, etc.

Kind of went overboard but they probably make kits that fit well enough.

 

I could take pictures underneath if interested to show where and how I mounted them.

Yes please kind of curious what it looks like underneath! Thank you!

[matt99199]

1 hour ago, luke1333 said:

Yes please kind of curious what it looks like underneath! Thank you!

Tried to circle in red the mounting points and how I did it.

The driver side is kind of free ballin' across the gap but it hasn't been an issue. That strip also has a 3d print with a switch to 12V for manual on/off.

The blue circle is the panel I took off and stuffed the controller.

 

Part 1 due to upload size.

 

Order is: driver, driver, rear, rear in pictures.

Edited June 12, 2023 by matt99199

[matt99199]

I drilled some small holes in the plastic trim on the right side for the passenger.

 

Part 2

Edited June 12, 2023 by matt99199

[luke1333]

On 6/12/2023 at 4:28 PM, matt99199 said:

Tried to circle in red the mounting points and how I did it.

The driver side is kind of free ballin' across the gap but it hasn't been an issue. That strip also has a 3d print with a switch to 12V for manual on/off.

The blue circle is the panel I took off and stuffed the controller.

 

Part 1 due to upload size.

 

Order is: driver, driver, rear, rear in pictures.

Man that looks clean! You need to come do my truck!!!

[Kerry Pulaski]

On 10/14/2022 at 7:23 PM, matt99199 said:

Update: With my door sills also installed and ON, the total current I could pull before a trip occurred was 2.48A.

Safe bet is the tripping point could be anywhere near 2.5A on the pin with tolerances on top of it so I wouldn't draw more than 2A if you use this pin.

Might want to consider a relay if driving any large amount of LEDs or load.

I want to put under glow lights later on when you open the door so you can see where you step (got those GMC puddle lights that only look cool but don't work to watch where you are going) so I will be installing a relay at some point.

 

I asked Molex about the terminal and they don't want people buying them for personal use as I figured, bummer.

Matt ; Is that X-1 Pin-1 circuit 12 vdc. ?  

 

Another post from SC in Michigan, said he did run LED's off X-1- Pin-1 without a relay.

 

I tapped into the Dome /Map feed wire , and it is a Transistor controlled PWM (pulse Width Modulated) circuit. Off that one, I measured 5.6 vdc to chassis gnd.

Driving a 5 vdc relay, the coil buzzed from the "chopped"  DC voltage. Added a 300 mfd. tantalum capacititor to smooth out the ripple / buzz,  and 5 watt diode to prevent damage to the BCM circuit.

I'm using 4 ea. KC Cyclone LED pucks, they draw .4 amps each.

 

Another post to you on page 3 said also on X-1 pin 23 , circuit 157 , for Interior Lamp Control also works to tap into.

 

GM should be ashamed, never mind the end , high $$ trucks should have interior liting like this , but the Pro and WT as well, should be standard. I went through a lot of Time, Sweat, Posts and George Carlin words to sort this out.                                                                                                                                             

[matt99199]

7 hours ago, Kerry Pulaski said:

Matt ; Is that X-1 Pin-1 circuit 12 vdc. ?  

 

Another post from SC in Michigan, said he did run LED's off X-1- Pin-1 without a relay.

 

I tapped into the Dome /Map feed wire , and it is a Transistor controlled PWM (pulse Width Modulated) circuit. Off that one, I measured 5.6 vdc to chassis gnd.

Driving a 5 vdc relay, the coil buzzed from the "chopped"  DC voltage. Added a 300 mfd. tantalum capacititor to smooth out the ripple / buzz,  and 5 watt diode to prevent damage to the BCM circuit.

I'm using 4 ea. KC Cyclone LED pucks, they draw .4 amps each.

 

Another post to you on page 3 said also on X-1 pin 23 , circuit 157 , for Interior Lamp Control also works to tap into.

 

GM should be ashamed, never mind the end , high $$ trucks should have interior liting like this , but the Pro and WT as well, should be standard. I went through a lot of Time, Sweat, Posts and George Carlin words to sort this out.                                                                                                                                             

Nope, the X1 pin1 is also a PWM'd transistor output, the same as the dome/map line.

I would imagine all lighting controlled circuits are PWM from the BCM since everything is LED and dimmed digitally now a days.

Your solution of using a cap and diode should work great but yeah it sucks it's not so easy to tap into.

Although at 0.4A each I would image they would have worked directly off of X1 pin1 without a relay.

Edited September 25, 2023 by matt99199