Control Arms

Leedall24 · August 7, 2022

I just bought a used 2015 Silverado 1500 LTZ with 6" lift, 35/12.50/20s. Crosswind ATs( not my choice) I have vibration at 60+ mph on certain road surfaces. No cupping or abnormal wear. Steering does not pull to either side. Concrete turnpike by far the worst. But vibration seems to go away on certain asphalt surfaces. First tire shop inspection said all control arms and tie rods are "shot". Second opinion tire shop said control arms are a little worn but crap tires are the problem. "Worst tire ever" he said. His opinion: Rotate and balance, (temporary fix) then tires. Then control arms. Does this sound right? On a budget so I cant do both at once. I dont know alot about control arms. Which one (brand and stock #)do you suggest for my lift. They all look the same to me. Any advice appreciated, thanks.

shakenfake · August 8, 2022

I would check the driveshaft for one

Could be the tires though

Spurshot · August 11, 2022

The control arms themselves, are not a wear item. They do contain the balljoints and bushings. These are the wear items. The balljoints are often worn out first before bushings. But in a modified/lifted truck, anything could be worn more rapidly than stock.

If you do your own work, balljoints are cheap enough, usually in the area of $30-50 each, which you need 4 of. If not, the labor to replace them can be expensive.

You can also buy replacement control arms (a.k.a. A-arms) with new balljoints and bushings already installed. This saves a little labor, but costs about 3 to 4 times as much or more than just buying balljoints and bushings.

I use Moog balljoints and control arms. In fact, I'm replacing the complete lower control arms on my truck with Moog right now.

Given that your truck is significantly modified, you need to find out whether you have OEM control arms or aftermarket. If aftermarket control arms, you need to find out what model (p/n, make, etc.) fits that control arm. For example, my upper control arms are aftermarket (Cognito) designed specifically for slight lift/level and have a HD balljoint from a larger truck, mounted in a slightly better angle to accommodate longer droop. I have to buy a balljoint for a different truck model.

If you don't work on your own truck, this could get pretty expensive to repair the front suspension.