Is anyone using Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer in their 5.3

[No Tyme]

Reading on another forum of those using Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer to help lubricate and prolong engine life. Just wanted opinions here as my oil change is coming tomorrow and I am going to begin using this. My concern is with the lower weight oil it may be an issue.

[customboss]

If you have to add that then maybe consider a different engine oil of higher quality.  Having a well formulated lubricant of ANY VISCOSITY is priority one.  

 

Weight is a common term for viscosity GRADE. 

 

By adding the non reportable SDS,  additive in Lucas is a crap shoot on how it will help or degrade a fully formulated lubricant. 

 

Not sure which engine you have but running a good synthetic would be better than adding Lucas to another oil.  

 

I'd run Lucas fully formulated lubricants first. I tested them back in the day and they were quite good.  

 

Amsoil, Mobil 1, Redline, Royal Purple, etc  would be better from my testing experience over 40+ years. 

 

Heck Amsoil is more stable AND we have a site sponsor here that helps pay for the advice we share to get the best for our GM trucks. 

 

Black02Silverado

Nick Mikitka

Independent AMSOIL Dealer

Synthetic Advantage LLC

email: [email protected]

Phone: 910-290-2371

 

 

 

 

[newdude]

I wouldn't touch it.  Its the equivalent of adding a bottle of 75w140 to your engine, so it will thicken up and dilute the rest of the oil you are putting in.  

 

A good quality 0w20 is all you need.  Pennzoil Platinum, Shell Rotella GT, Amsoil, etc.  If you wanted a thicker oil, bump to 5w20 or maybe 5w30 if that will give you peace of mind.  

 

That said, 47K on my 2019 old body 5.3 with nothing but 0w20 (Shell Rotella GT, now Amsoil OE or Boosted) and I burn zero oil, and I'm not easy on it at all.  

Edited May 5, 2022 by newdude

[customboss]

10 minutes ago, newdude said:

I wouldn't touch it.  Its the equivalent of adding a bottle of 75w140 to your engine, so it will thicken up and dilute the rest of the oil you are putting in.  

 

A good quality 0w20 is all you need.  Pennzoil Platinum, Shell Rotella GT, Amsoil, etc.  If you wanted a thicker oil, bump to 5w20 or maybe 5w30 if that will give you peace of mind.  

 

That said, 47K on my 2019 old body 5.3 with nothing but 0w20 (Shell Rotella GT, now Amsoil OE or Boosted) and I burn zero oil, and I'm not easy on it at all.  

Correction!  SDS shows it at 100C not 40C so newdude is correct.   Lucas synthetic additive is 45 cSt @100C so its a VERY viscous fluid that is not  needed anyway.

 

The older chemistry was even more thick from mostly VI improver. 

 

Forrest Lucas has made a mint selling basic oil additives now for years...

Edited May 5, 2022 by customboss
temp of vis measure correction

[Grumpy Bear]

@customboss, Correct me if I error here but this product has a good dose of 'Tackifier' does it not? Same sort of stuff they use in chain bar oil to keep it on the chain. Lube glue 

[No Tyme]

It doesn't give a break down of the contents on the bottle.

[Grumpy Bear]

2 hours ago, No Tyme said:

It doesn't give a break down of the contents on the bottle.

 

Oh Eddie............................... (Topo Gigio) Like your avitar. 

 

 

Edited May 5, 2022 by Grumpy Bear

[customboss]

3 hours ago, No Tyme said:

It doesn't give a break down of the contents on the bottle.

Nor the SDS sheet. But it’s a moderate cut of PAO with VI improver and maybe tackifier or surfactant. All non reportable to material safety folks. 

[Black02Silverado]

As all stated above.  No need to run it, just use a quality synthetic.  There are more on the road that use a quality synthtetic with high mileage on them and no issue. 

 

To me this was needed back 30 years ago if not longer but not now with the quality of lubricants we have available.

 

My 2002 Silverado had AMSOIL in it from day one and at over 200k when I sold it, ran great and I just used 5w-30 AMSOIL and at times 0w-20 to see how it effected the used oil analysis.

[customboss]

22 hours ago, No Tyme said:

Reading on another forum of those using Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer to help lubricate and prolong engine life. Just wanted opinions here as my oil change is coming tomorrow and I am going to begin using this. My concern is with the lower weight oil it may be an issue.

No Tyme, 

 

I am going off my normal science based comments now with some experiential background in the industry about what might be the newer Lucas Synthetic Stabilizer formula.  

 

Forrest Lucas is originally from Indiana,   BIOSYNTHETIC.inc  is located in Indianapolis and makes some very interesting NEW unique estolides base lubricants that behave very well to do the same thing as "Brightstock" and probably better.

 

Most of these thick additives EP capable base oils used to be founded on petroleum BRIGHTSTOCK and that got expensive....... so formulators were looking for other products to fill the void. 

 

https://www.lubesngreases.com/magazine/27_11/is-bright-stock-irreplaceable/

 

I THINK/GUESS thats what the "synthetic" is in this product and is NOT REPORTABLE. Here's some more info.   https://www.biosynthetic.com/products/

 

 

My point is a well formulated engine oil proper viscosity for the engine design (and most are mostly synthetic now) will have constituents that Lucas Synthetic Stabilizer actually is using but in appropriate volume for the total formulation to be ideal. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[LDM]

All this stuff is is thick oil without any of the proper additives.  If you want a thicker oil, use a thicker oil to begin with.  No need to add this useless stuff.  The only thing its good for is making your wallet lighter. 

[No Tyme]

After reading all of the above post I am thinking that the Synthetic Oil Stabilizers is more like STO oil treatment, that think as molasses stuff in the can back in the 70's. I am leaning heavily on just using a quality oil now.

I did not originally add that my 18 has high mileage, 104K now. I believe most are highway miles and only purchased the truck as it seemed so solid driving down the expressway at 70 with no vibration, no pulling in any direction and no engine noise. My only concern was the transmission as I have no record of trans being flushed, and that is happening as I type.

I will look into Amsoil as I am not sure of the full  synthetic that the Chevy dealer uses.

Thanks to all for your response. 

[Grumpy Bear]

13 minutes ago, No Tyme said:

I am thinking that the Synthetic Oil Stabilizer is more like STP oil treatment

 

Tons of these sorts or products and most sadly misunderstood. Most consumers see them as viscosity manipulation products. Judge them on how thick or thin they look or feel. And yes, a few are.

 

But some also have different goals. Not viscosity manipulation but LUBRICITY manipulation. And no, they are not the same thing.

 

Sperm Oil from Sperm Whales is quite viscous at about 22 cSt with a viscosity index of 180 and was used as a lubricity modifier in ATF till about 1972. That friends in the area of 60W straight weight motor oil or 110 gear oil. And yet used in products with a finished viscosity in the area of 6 to 8 cSt. (Types F and III ATF) But this stuff was as slippery as deer guts on a brass door knob. Now ban thank you. But they allowed a 6 cSt fluid to provide lower friction drag that a 6 cSt Mineral oil would have naturally. Limited slip additives do the opposite and are used in some MTF's to help with sycro ring speed matching. Red Lines MTF will turn a Honda manual box from crawling to a stop to get in 1st gear to any speed you like. I.E. 

 

Some additives are 'tackifiers'. The idea is to prevent 'dry start'. Chain bar oil I mentioned earlier an everyday use you may be familiar with. 

 

Others reduce 'slip stick'. Useful in break away torque. Lathe bed way oils a prime example. Might be useful in cam phasers, who knows   

 

Most have nothing to do with changing viscosity.

They just have one. 

 

Here's a freebie. Most AFM failures are do to aeration making the incompressible compressible leading to mistimed events. Do you know how your oil rates in the area of aeration? If your thinking all DEXOS oils are alike...think again. If you think GM specs infallible....GM approved ULV ATF's that they later 'reformulated' as they original formula failed in the 'real world'.  Why did they walk back OCI's when Ecotec I-4 phasers and oil ring drain passages failed?

 

The advise to "Use a better oil"  is like telling someone getting out of the pool to use a drier towel! they have things so locked down it takes some digging and testing to even scratch the surface. Every blender is signing the same songs.

 

TRUST ME!!  Use ME!! 

 

 

 

 

 

[No Tyme]

A lot of that tech stuff went right over my head... I'm no Forest Gump but I am willing to spend a few dollars more on my oil to hopefully not spend thousands with a rebuild down the road.

Stopped at NAPA and picked up a pair of wiper blades after picking up the truck from a trans flush and they told me the local True Value sells Amsoil. Lucky me

[Grumpy Bear]

4 minutes ago, No Tyme said:

A lot of that tech stuff went right over my head... I'm no Forest Gump but I am willing to spend a few dollars more on my oil to hopefully not spend thousands with a rebuild down the road.

Stopped at NAPA and picked up a pair of wiper blades after picking up the truck from a trans flush and they told me the local True Value sells Amsoil. Lucky me

 

FYI Rob. No idea how much oil you use a year but @Black02Silverado is a sponsor here. I have a $20 annual membership with AMSOIL through him and free shipping on case orders that gives me something like a 20 or 25% savings. I save way more a year than I spend on the membership over buying at Blain's Farm and Fleet who also carries the stuff. (sometimes)  And I don't buy that much really. When I get an order in early it is usually next day on by step.