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Hub Assembly Replacement Torque Specifications?


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I'm about to be replacing the front hub assemblies on my 2019 Yukon.  (Specs should be the same for 2014-2018 Silverado and Sierra as well, MAYBE 2019+ as well?)  It does seem a bit early considering the vehicle just has over 44,000 miles, but there is definitely the classic wheel bearing groan originating from the front passenger wheel.  At speed, the noise definitely gets quieter or entirely disappears when turning the wheel to the left, and gets a bit louder when turning the wheel to the right.  Classic symptoms I believe.  Regardless I have already purchased 2 brand new Moog hubs.  My research shows these torque specs below, can anyone confirm if these are in fact correct?

Bolts connecting hub assembly to knuckle;  133 Foot Pounds
Large nut connecting axle shaft to hub assembly;  188 Foot Pounds
Lug Nuts;  140 Foot Pounds

Thank you.

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The job is done.  These are the torque specifications I utilized;

Bolts connecting hub assembly to knuckle;  133 foot pounds

Large nut connecting axle shaft to hub assembly;  188 foot pounds (as per Moog supplied specification)

Front brake caliper bracket to knuckle bolts;  170 foot pounds

Front brake caliper to caliper bracket bolts;  74 foot pounds

Lug nuts;  140 foot pounds

 

I also found specs for the rear brakes;

Rear brake caliper bracket to axle bolts;  148 foot pounds

Rear brake caliper to caliper bracket bolts;  38 foot pounds

 

Hopefully this information assists someone in the future!

Edited by BlaineBug
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I'm pretty sure my impact gun stopped at those exact specs too, I know my tools pretty good.

 

The axle nut and lug nuts are the only thing I torque lol.

 

From my experience, the bigger the wheel the faster the hub fails. Took 100k miles for me to replace one on my truck with 18's.

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11 hours ago, CamGTP said:

I'm pretty sure my impact gun stopped at those exact specs too, I know my tools pretty good.

 

The axle nut and lug nuts are the only thing I torque lol.

 

From my experience, the bigger the wheel the faster the hub fails. Took 100k miles for me to replace one on my truck with 18's.

 

My Yukon has factory tires and factory 18" wheels.

Also I've learned that using an impact to tighten the center hub nut is a poor idea as it can damage the bearings inside.  And potentially over-tighten as well which will lead to premature death.  Been there done that as a teen with my Jeep back in the day - when I didn't have any fancy torque wrenches and specialty tools, of course.  Not recommended.

Edited by BlaineBug
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4 hours ago, CamGTP said:

Correct, many bearings use that torque settings to preload the bearings. I only run my impact down until it's tight then torque it the rest of the way. All the other stuff gets the impact treatment.

 

I'm not sure what the 2 wheel drive hubs have inside that keeps them together, but I am aware of a man that rolled his Jeep Wrangler a few hours from here around 2007 and died after being hit in the head by luggage or a jack or something.  he had broken an axle shaft at the Badlands in Attica, IN and removed the entire shaft including the stub shaft that holds the hub assembly together.  It separated while at highway speed sending the wheel flying, and due to having a lift, the center of gravity caused the vehicle to roll.

Having that axle nut too loose or too tight (especially totally absent) can result in disaster.

Having a Jeep myself, I always kept a damaged stub shaft with me, in the event I needed to remove a broken axle shaft, I had that stub shaft to use to keep the hub together.  Just incase.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 11/22/2021 at 7:28 AM, dieselfan1 said:

I have heard of Kryptonite before.  They make a variety of custom suspension components from what I know that do seem to be fairly beefy, hence the name.

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