Castrol Edge VS Amsoil OE

[diyer2]

I'm no chemical engineer so I would like some input on these oils. I'm considering switching from Castrol Edge to Amsoil OE for our 19 Santa FE. It takes 5W20. Is the cost difference worth it? I just want a better grade oil than Castrol Edge. Don't want to go full 100% synthetic like Red Line. Can't justify the cost because I will still do 3 K OCI's with Amsoil OE.

 

I'm thinking of switching looking for a better all around oil with better wear protection and cold start protection. Because we live in a colder climate in the mountains of Colorado and our trips to town are short drives I was thinking of upgrading this cars oil. Our morning temps have been in the 20's and 30's and it will be below zero in the dead of winter with highs in the 10's -  20's. Looking for better wear protection because we pull grades everywhere we go.

  

I think Amsoil OE would be an upgrade over Castrol Edge but not sure how much of an upgrade. What's your opinions?

 

 

[shakenfake]

Get whatever is cheaper imo. You are doing 3k OCIs

[Amcguy1970]

Well Amsoil will let your engine last twice as long as other brands oil. You will see improved mpg, higher HP and you will be able to run 50k between oil changes for just double the price of other name brand oil companies. 

 

Honestly, use the cheapest name brand synthetic oil, done. Don't over think it, especially at 3k oil change intervals, Amsoil or any other pyramid scheme oil would be a waste. 

 

Tyler

[diyer2]

Thanks but no thanks.

[shakenfake]

You can use store brand. Just find out what factory produces it. Last oil change I did was with Pennzoil Platinum as it was cheaper by a few cents on Amazon. Amazon is cheaper or on par with store but at least I don't have to drive to the store to pick it up lol

[customboss]

Instead of guessing and worrying about branding, FIRST take a oil sample with a  good high quality oil analysis service that includes GC fuels, KF water, full FTIR, full physical properties, good ICP breadth of testing and see where you Hyundai engine is at right now.  Then decide tune issues, filter changes and appropriate oil and fuels chemistry for the application.  Thats science based recommendation. 

 

API/ILSAC engine oils are formulated to a minimum standard. There are chemistry differences that work better in certain applications.  

 

Correcting tune issues and finding weak spots can be hidden by engine oil changes thus the sampling idea works to guide the consumer who will NEVER know exactly what is in branded chemistry. 

 

Note most off the shelf engine oils are using additive packages and base oils that cookie cutter to meet min standard. 

 

Some make a better combination of those available technologies than others but they all must cut the chemistry to a min so they can make $$.  

 

 

 

 

[Grumpy Bear]

• FULL SYNTHETIC -- OEM-required Group III/Group IV PAO Base Stocks

 

This is a snippet from Red Lines information page on their Professional Series line of oils. Frankly this is news to me but my contact assures me of its accuracy. IF it carries a GM DEXOS1Gen2 license then the base oils will be these two. 'Required". 

 

So...where does that leave us? We know that neither of these materials have a sufficiently low enough aniline point to carry an additive on their own. A bit of digging around in the "international' SDS sheets shows that there are esters as part of the add package carrier oils. (Enough to suppress, not enough to lower fiction or enhance high temp performance) Ah!...now....That makes sense. And while that solves a mystery it does not answer your question. 

 

However it does mean that as far as the base oils are concerned that the differences between them will be in the ratio of blend and the viscosities of the individual components to reach the desired viscosity requirements of the final product and in that we get a clue. 

 

So diyer2, here's what your looking at. Both oils are made of the same bases and use the 'functionally' same additives. Where they differ is in the minutiae that you can parse out in their respective VOA's.  That is to say if cold start is your need then choose the one with the lowest cold viscosity. PQIA is a good resource for that sort of investigation.  Yes I know the Kirkland link is 5W30 not 5W20 but the cold numbers will be very close anyway. 

 

http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/Specsheets/OE_Oil.pdf

 

https://pqia.org/kirkland-signature-full-synthetic-sae-5w-30-motor-oil/

 

http://pqiadata.org/Castrol_Edge_5W20.html

 

https://www.redlineoil.com/Content/files/tech/5W20_PROF_SERIES_PROD_INFO.pdf

[shakenfake]

#projectfarm 

[KARNUT]

Three thousand miles is 800 under Hyundai’s extreme service schedule. I would go with the cheapest Walmart synthetic. Amsoil makes oil for frequent oil changes. If you do your own spend a little extra for peace of mind. 

[diyer2]

Yes Karnut. Why I do the 3 K mile OCI's. Like I said we pull grades everywhere we go. Some steep grades. Drive dirt roads. Seems to me if I understand the info Grumpy supplied the Edge is a good oil. Suffers some in the cold start specs right? 

I used Super Tech years ago. No problems with it. 

I like Edge better than others. 

[Z45]

AMSOIL is driven by quality. AMSOIL introduced synthetic motor oils in 1972. A board of directors, heavy bureaucracy, and industry constraints bind large oil companies. Their primary goal is to maximize shareholder profits which conflicts with the idea of bringing the highest quality product to market. Only AMSOIL is willing to make the investment necessary to provide the highest quality lubricants to the market.

 

You bought a certain vehicle because you wanted the best, so why search out the cheapest oil, when you can have the best? 

 

Disclosure: I been using AMSOIL for better than 30+ yrs. Never been disappointed with their products.....

[diyer2]

Where do you get I was looking for cheap oil.

Nobody has answered my question.

Is Amsoil OE and upgrade from Castrol Edge. 

[shakenfake]

The answer is yes it is. 

 

The reason everyone is saying cheap oil is because you are doing 3k OCIs. You are burning money buying Amsoil.

[Grumpy Bear]

If you poke around in the PQIA site long enough comparing oils of like SAE grade and API classification you start to see the compromises and differences. How license restricts choices and trends evolve over time. 

 

DEXOS1Gen2 restricts the already narrow SN/SN+/SP specification by limiting base oil exchange. There are plenty of SN oils that are conventional and one or two that are Group III/Ester blends. They just can't carry a DEXOS license. While that may seem inconvenient it also assures one that the base materials are as the license requires and it isn't a bad choice as a base oil. But it does require some heavy lifting from the additives.  The SAE use to have limits...it now has boundaries on some additives. 

 

1 minute ago, diyer2 said:

Where do you get I was looking for cheap oil.

Nobody has answered my question.

Is Amsoil OE and upgrade from Castrol Edge. 

 

No. Note given your guidelines in your opening post. 

It really is a commodity market UNTIL the blender starts using Group V fluids. Not on your shopping list. 

 

 

 

 

[KARNUT]

34 minutes ago, diyer2 said:

Yes Karnut. Why I do the 3 K mile OCI's. Like I said we pull grades everywhere we go. Some steep grades. Drive dirt roads. Seems to me if I understand the info Grumpy supplied the Edge is a good oil. Suffers some in the cold start specs right? 

I used Super Tech years ago. No problems with it. 

I like Edge better than others. 

I’d be more diligent with the transmission. I’m sure you’re not running at redline constantly. I’m a Amsoil fanboy.  I’ve run diesel equipment at redline constantly as well as my pulling trucks. Yes I’ve seen temperature improvements and no oil pressure drops with temperature. Also redline shifting  when pulling. Extreme stuff. Im not going to throw articles at you. They all can be altered with an agenda. Im going by field testing, real testing at maximum conditions. No 55 mph max speed at pristine conditions. And claiming that’s normal. Saying that in your case not calling you mr. cheapie, at 3K oil changes the on sale stuff will do.