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Anyone else keep getting flashed at night?  Currently on a long trip, going through Ontario and we (wife is driving at the moment) keep getting flashed by on coming traffic. Low beams on only, dont even have fog lights on. I’m in the process of removing the factory lift kit out of my AT4 for various reasons. The rear is lowered on bilstein shocks, fronts are back ordered. I did aim my headlights before we left eince the ass end is sitting lower. Center of the low beams is 44” from the ground and backed 25’ from the wall and got them aimed perfectly. The on coming traffic quickly release they ****ed up when we give a quick flash back with the 6 light mod and mirror lights to high beam (so low, high, fogs and mirror lights). 

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Don't have an AT4, have the Sierra X31. You mention a 6 light mod and mirror lights, again, not familiar with. I do know there are complaints about the LED lights, even on low beam. I have had oncoming traffic flash their high beams at me. I usually ignore it. I have the auto dimming feature which lowers the high beams if I forget. You say you aligned your lights. No offense, given the fact the front end is higher, maybe they need adjustment using the proper equipment. The problem down here is the Carolina Squat. Which soon may be banned here.Palatka Squat | Carolina Crawl | Carolina Squat | BullDogging | Squatting | Squat  Truck | Star Gazer - YouTube

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9 hours ago, Snakes709 said:

The on coming traffic quickly release they ****ed up when we give a quick flash back with the 6 light mod and mirror lights to high beam (so low, high, fogs and mirror lights). 

Wow, you sound like a total douche. "They already think I have my high beams on, so I'll just blind the oncoming traffic a little further". 

 

For the record, never once been flashed in my stock height X31. 

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People are just flash happy busybodies these days. I swear some of them drive around with eyes full of cataracts just waiting for reasons to feel like a victim. 


Both my stock 16 and stock 19 would get flashed from time to time. But I refuse to aim my properly adjusted, DOT legal low beams into the dirt because they cross someone’s personal brightness threshold. If I messed with suspension or towed frequently at night I would adjust. Otherwise send them the X-Ray.

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18 hours ago, Snakes709 said:

Anyone else keep getting flashed at night?  Currently on a long trip, going through Ontario and we (wife is driving at the moment) keep getting flashed by on coming traffic. Low beams on only, dont even have fog lights on. I’m in the process of removing the factory lift kit out of my AT4 for various reasons. The rear is lowered on bilstein shocks, fronts are back ordered. I did aim my headlights before we left eince the ass end is sitting lower. Center of the low beams is 44” from the ground and backed 25’ from the wall and got them aimed perfectly. The on coming traffic quickly release they ****ed up when we give a quick flash back with the 6 light mod and mirror lights to high beam (so low, high, fogs and mirror lights). 

 

It sounds like they're not aimed correctly. You might want to double check how you're aiming them.

 

Probably not a great idea to flash back if your beams are already too high, plus you're adding fogs and mirror lights. It's not a war, and headlamps shouldn't be used offensively.

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The truck doesnt have a caroline squat. Rear still has just over 1 inch gap more then the front. I know how to align headlights, its not my first time doing headlights. And yes, ill be a douche if you blind me for no ****ing reason, ill blind you back. 

516D236D-4302-40A5-BE18-ED8AAFEBA2F8.jpeg

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On 8/22/2021 at 4:59 AM, Snakes709 said:

Anyone else keep getting flashed at night?  Currently on a long trip, going through Ontario and we (wife is driving at the moment) keep getting flashed by on coming traffic. Low beams on only, dont even have fog lights on. I’m in the process of removing the factory lift kit out of my AT4 for various reasons. The rear is lowered on bilstein shocks, fronts are back ordered. I did aim my headlights before we left eince the ass end is sitting lower. Center of the low beams is 44” from the ground and backed 25’ from the wall and got them aimed perfectly. The on coming traffic quickly release they ****ed up when we give a quick flash back with the 6 light mod and mirror lights to high beam (so low, high, fogs and mirror lights). 

 

 

When you aimed them, did you measure from the ground to the headlight alignment marker/dot on the truck?  You need this # to then make the reference on the wall you are using to align off of to know where the light hits. 

 

Front Headlamp Aiming

Headlamp aiming is done with the low beam lamps. The high beam lamps will be correctly aimed if the low beam lamps are aimed properly.

Screen Method for Headlamp Aiming (Visual Aim)

The screen method requires an area set up specifically for headlamp aim.

The area should consist of a level surface large enough to allow for a vehicle and an additional 7.62 m (25 ft) as measured from the face of the headlamps to the aiming screen.

The screen should be a wall or other flat surface at least 1.52 m (5 ft) high by 3.66 m (12 ft) wide with a matte white surface well shaded from extraneous light, and 90 degrees to the floor. The screen should be provided with a permanent vertical reference line 0.61 m (2 ft) from the left edge of the screen, 2 laterally adjustable vertical tapes, and one vertically adjustable horizontal tape.

After the aiming screen has been set up and located, paint or tape a reference line on the floor 15.24 m (50 ft) from the vertical reference line on the screen. This line should be perpendicular to the aiming screen and a mark placed at 7.62 m (25 ft) from the screen.

Headlamp Aiming Procedure
 

Important: DO NOT cover the headlamp, this may cause excessive heat build up.

  1. Align the left tires of the vehicle with the reference line extending from the screen with the headlamps aligned with the reference line.
  2. Remove any snow, ice or mud from the vehicle.
  3. The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while the headlamp aiming is being done.
  4. The vehicle should contain cargo or be loaded to represent normal vehicle use.
  5. Tires should be properly inflated.
  6. Rock the vehicle to stabilize the suspension.
  7. Measure from the floor to the center of the lamp bulb on the vehicle. Some lamps have an aim dot marked on the lens.
  8. At the screen, measure from the floor and place the horizontal tape at the measured distance.
  9. Measure from the reference line on the floor to the left headlamp bulb centerline (1).
  10. At the screen, measure from the reference line and place the vertical tape at the measured distance  (2).
  11. Measure from the reference line on the floor to the right headlamp bulb centerline.
  12. At the screen, measure from the reference line and place the vertical tape at the measured distance.
  13. Turn the headlamps ON.
  14. Block the light from projecting onto the screen from the passenger side headlamp. This will allow the cutoff in the beam pattern from the drivers side to be more pronounced for easier aim verification.
  15. On this vehicle you will be verifying the aim of the vertical cutoff on the right side of the lamp vertical bulb centerline as it is projected onto the aim board.
  16. If the location of the cutoff projected onto the board differs from figure 4 then an adjustment to the beam pattern location is necessary.
  17. Adjust the vertical headlamp adjustment screw until the Right Gradient Line (Cutoff Line) is set at the Horizontal Axis within +/- 2.0 inches (2) measured at 7.62 m (25 ft).
  18. Verify proper aim location.
  19. Repeat the aiming procedure for the passengers side headlamp while blocking the light from projecting onto the screen from the drivers side headlamp.

 

 

Also, why buy an AT4 just to yank all the lift out of it?  Why not have bought the right truck from the get go?

Edited by newdude
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3 hours ago, newdude said:

 

 

When you aimed them, did you measure from the ground to the headlight alignment marker/dot on the truck?  You need this # to then make the reference on the wall you are using to align off of to know where the light hits. 

 

Front Headlamp Aiming

Headlamp aiming is done with the low beam lamps. The high beam lamps will be correctly aimed if the low beam lamps are aimed properly.

Screen Method for Headlamp Aiming (Visual Aim)

The screen method requires an area set up specifically for headlamp aim.

The area should consist of a level surface large enough to allow for a vehicle and an additional 7.62 m (25 ft) as measured from the face of the headlamps to the aiming screen.

The screen should be a wall or other flat surface at least 1.52 m (5 ft) high by 3.66 m (12 ft) wide with a matte white surface well shaded from extraneous light, and 90 degrees to the floor. The screen should be provided with a permanent vertical reference line 0.61 m (2 ft) from the left edge of the screen, 2 laterally adjustable vertical tapes, and one vertically adjustable horizontal tape.

After the aiming screen has been set up and located, paint or tape a reference line on the floor 15.24 m (50 ft) from the vertical reference line on the screen. This line should be perpendicular to the aiming screen and a mark placed at 7.62 m (25 ft) from the screen.

Headlamp Aiming Procedure
 

Important: DO NOT cover the headlamp, this may cause excessive heat build up.

  1. Align the left tires of the vehicle with the reference line extending from the screen with the headlamps aligned with the reference line.
  2. Remove any snow, ice or mud from the vehicle.
  3. The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while the headlamp aiming is being done.
  4. The vehicle should contain cargo or be loaded to represent normal vehicle use.
  5. Tires should be properly inflated.
  6. Rock the vehicle to stabilize the suspension.
  7. Measure from the floor to the center of the lamp bulb on the vehicle. Some lamps have an aim dot marked on the lens.
  8. At the screen, measure from the floor and place the horizontal tape at the measured distance.
  9. Measure from the reference line on the floor to the left headlamp bulb centerline (1).
  10. At the screen, measure from the reference line and place the vertical tape at the measured distance  (2).
  11. Measure from the reference line on the floor to the right headlamp bulb centerline.
  12. At the screen, measure from the reference line and place the vertical tape at the measured distance.
  13. Turn the headlamps ON.
  14. Block the light from projecting onto the screen from the passenger side headlamp. This will allow the cutoff in the beam pattern from the drivers side to be more pronounced for easier aim verification.
  15. On this vehicle you will be verifying the aim of the vertical cutoff on the right side of the lamp vertical bulb centerline as it is projected onto the aim board.
  16. If the location of the cutoff projected onto the board differs from figure 4 then an adjustment to the beam pattern location is necessary.
  17. Adjust the vertical headlamp adjustment screw until the Right Gradient Line (Cutoff Line) is set at the Horizontal Axis within +/- 2.0 inches (2) measured at 7.62 m (25 ft).
  18. Verify proper aim location.
  19. Repeat the aiming procedure for the passengers side headlamp while blocking the light from projecting onto the screen from the drivers side headlamp.

 

 

Also, why buy an AT4 just to yank all the lift out of it?  Why not have bought the right truck from the get go?

Not the dot, didnt notice there was one honestly. But from the middle of the housing, which was 44”. Placed a line of painters tape on the wall, 44”” from the ground, backed up 25ft, put the middle of the hot spot for each light on the tape. I didnt aim left to right though. 
 

as for ripping the lift out. Only 2 trims had the options i wanted, the denali or at4. The denali was 24k more and had a ****** load of chrome that i hate. I dont care for lifted trucks, prefer lowered honestly.  I have a back injury from the military and my sciatic nerve hates me most days. So getting in and out of the truck with the 2” is more of a challange. With my winter wheels and tires, the shark fin antenna doesnt clear my garage, it will once i remove the front lift. My bike also bottoms out when loading it in the bed. So dropping it will make it easier getting it in and out.  

Edited by Snakes709
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Honest question...

 

Is the middle of the beam supposed to be at the same height as the center of the headlight?  Or is the cutoff (top of the beam) supposed to be at the same height as the center of the headlight?  I thought it was the latter.

 

@newdude - any way you can post the diagram mentioned in the instructions?

 

thanks!

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I’ve never been flashed in my AT4.

 

When I flash others on the road it’s not to be a dick, but to let them know their high beams are on and blinding me.

 

I’ll never understand why people get so offended when someone flashes them.  If multiple people flash you, maybe get your headlights adjusted.

 

 

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2 minutes ago, Kanon Morris said:

I’ve never been flashed in my AT4.

 

When I flash others on the road it’s not to be a dick, but to let them know their high beams are on and blinding me.

 

I’ll never understand why people get so offended when someone flashes them.  If multiple people flash you, maybe get your headlights adjusted.

 

 

Get my headlights adjusted…gee, why didnt  i think of that. 

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19 minutes ago, Snakes709 said:

Get my headlights adjusted…gee, why didnt  i think of that. 


Just drive without headlights on. Or replace the LEDs with candles. Because clearly there’s no chance that the people flashing you are wrong or overreacting. The internet people who have never seen your headlights say so.

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