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Adding Power fold Mirrors to your T1 truck without the memory package


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I found a cheap pair of T1 Power folding mirrors on 1AAUTO (NON OEM) that are meant just as a replacement to the OEM Memory Package mirrors, obviously I don't have the memory package but I really wanted to give this a try and so far I would call it a success!

 

This is what I ordered:

  • P/N: 1AMRP03092 The Mirrors (from 1AAUTO.COM)
  • P/N: 84532268 The OEM Power Fold Switch (from any GM Parts store)
  • 22-20 Ga. Female GT 150 Series, Sealed #12191818 The Terminals (from amazon)

  • 22 AWG 6 conductor wire The Cable (from amazon)

  • And The heart of the project: a generic, Chinese, Cheap Power fold mirror controller (from amazon)

 

I WILL MOSLTY BE FOCUSING ON EXPLAINING THE DRIVERS SIDE FOR THIS POST, IT IS ALMOST THE SAME ON THE PASSANGER SIDE EXCEPT THAT SIDE HAS THE AMBIENT TEMP SENSOR. WHEN YOU DISCONNECT THIS SENSOR AND RECONNECT IT THE TRUCK WILL SHOW -40 DEGREES, TO RECALIBRATE THE AMBIENT TEMP SENSOR YOU MUST DRIVE GREATER THAN 65MPH FOR MORE THAN 1 MINUTE.

 

Now my goal for this project was just to be able to power fold my mirrors when I leave my truck and lock the doors, but also unfold when I unlock. I haven't received the interior switch just yet but I am planning on figuring out how to make it work!

 

I started with checking my door harnesses for any existing wire that would make this easier, my truck came from the factory with the wiring for power adjustable mirrors, heated mirrors, and the puddle/task lamps (which is odd because my OEM mirrors did not have the puddle nor task lamps. The new aftermarket mirrors did include the two lights and I was able to get both of them working.

 

Next I played with the generic power fold mirror controller to see how it worked. It has the inputs for lock and unlock as well as inputs for an interior switch. The power inputs are +12V,GND, and ACC. There is just one two-wire output to fold and unfold the mirrors by switching the polarity of the motors. The ACC Wire (Accessory) is required because the controller folds and unfolds the mirrors based on the lock status. When ACC is applied the lock and unlock folding feature is disabled.

 

Next I looked at the GM Upfitter Electrical pinout section to see what pins I was looking for on the Mirror. There are only two pins for the Power Fold Motor, 

  1.  Pin 3 Circuit 3412 Driver Mirror Motor Fold IN Control
  2.  Pin 15 Circuit 3411 Driver Mirror Motor Fold Out Control

 

I first ran the new wires from the drivers side fuse panel to each mirror going under the dash and through the door harness holes and boots. I then terminated two leads on each side right at the mirror, the cable I used had 6 wires but I just wanted extra for any future projects. The mirrors went on without a hitch, and I pulled the locking pin off the mirror connector and put in my new two terminated leads in there correct positions (polarity really doesn't matter because reversing the polarity will just make the motor turn the wrong way). 

 

Now we have two new power folding mirrors with our own DIY harnesses installed and ready to go.

 

Next is finding your power sources and Lock and Unlock signals. For the +12V I used literally any fuse on the drivers side (they are all always powered) and for the ACC I had to run a wire to the heated steering wheel fuse on the passenger side (The passenger side fuse box has both always on power and accessory power). For the lock and unlock signals I used Pins 2 and 4 of the K9 Body Control Module pink X6 connector. These are for the drivers door lock actuator.

 

Finally with the ignition off so that ACC is not powered connect the Fold control wires from the controller to the mirrors and press the lock and unlock button to get the polarity correct. If its wrong just flip the two wires for that corresponding mirror.

 

If you have any questions just reply!

 

IMG_6519.thumb.jpg.c742a88c9f1f296aeb0c14cc94265143.jpg

 

IMG_6520.thumb.jpg.d53f73f5ceac785aa24cffbf32fefdb3.jpg

 

IMG_6521.thumb.jpg.ee566b4bf8dd598824b2b620ad9acf75.jpg

 

IMG_6522.thumb.jpg.f1a3dabb137a0b0bf54868122f29fc0e.jpg

 

IMG_6523.thumb.jpg.884515fa1791d43c00aaaa85d0a67581.jpg

 

IMG_6547.thumb.jpg.7ec4eb9eb67e24f67ce7693dc6772185.jpg

 

You can see the Generic controller tucked away inside the drivers side fuse panel.

 

 

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  • 8 months later...
On 7/15/2021 at 5:49 PM, Aaaaaaaayush said:

I found a cheap pair of T1 Power folding mirrors on 1AAUTO (NON OEM) that are meant just as a replacement to the OEM Memory Package mirrors, obviously I don't have the memory package but I really wanted to give this a try and so far I would call it a success!

 

This is what I ordered:

  • P/N: 1AMRP03092 The Mirrors (from 1AAUTO.COM)
  • P/N: 84532268 The OEM Power Fold Switch (from any GM Parts store)
  • 22-20 Ga. Female GT 150 Series, Sealed #12191818 The Terminals (from amazon)

  • 22 AWG 6 conductor wire The Cable (from amazon)

  • And The heart of the project: a generic, Chinese, Cheap Power fold mirror controller (from amazon)

 

I WILL MOSLTY BE FOCUSING ON EXPLAINING THE DRIVERS SIDE FOR THIS POST, IT IS ALMOST THE SAME ON THE PASSANGER SIDE EXCEPT THAT SIDE HAS THE AMBIENT TEMP SENSOR. WHEN YOU DISCONNECT THIS SENSOR AND RECONNECT IT THE TRUCK WILL SHOW -40 DEGREES, TO RECALIBRATE THE AMBIENT TEMP SENSOR YOU MUST DRIVE GREATER THAN 65MPH FOR MORE THAN 1 MINUTE.

 

Now my goal for this project was just to be able to power fold my mirrors when I leave my truck and lock the doors, but also unfold when I unlock. I haven't received the interior switch just yet but I am planning on figuring out how to make it work!

 

I started with checking my door harnesses for any existing wire that would make this easier, my truck came from the factory with the wiring for power adjustable mirrors, heated mirrors, and the puddle/task lamps (which is odd because my OEM mirrors did not have the puddle nor task lamps. The new aftermarket mirrors did include the two lights and I was able to get both of them working.

 

Next I played with the generic power fold mirror controller to see how it worked. It has the inputs for lock and unlock as well as inputs for an interior switch. The power inputs are +12V,GND, and ACC. There is just one two-wire output to fold and unfold the mirrors by switching the polarity of the motors. The ACC Wire (Accessory) is required because the controller folds and unfolds the mirrors based on the lock status. When ACC is applied the lock and unlock folding feature is disabled.

 

Next I looked at the GM Upfitter Electrical pinout section to see what pins I was looking for on the Mirror. There are only two pins for the Power Fold Motor, 

  1.  Pin 3 Circuit 3412 Driver Mirror Motor Fold IN Control
  2.  Pin 15 Circuit 3411 Driver Mirror Motor Fold Out Control

 

I first ran the new wires from the drivers side fuse panel to each mirror going under the dash and through the door harness holes and boots. I then terminated two leads on each side right at the mirror, the cable I used had 6 wires but I just wanted extra for any future projects. The mirrors went on without a hitch, and I pulled the locking pin off the mirror connector and put in my new two terminated leads in there correct positions (polarity really doesn't matter because reversing the polarity will just make the motor turn the wrong way). 

 

Now we have two new power folding mirrors with our own DIY harnesses installed and ready to go.

 

Next is finding your power sources and Lock and Unlock signals. For the +12V I used literally any fuse on the drivers side (they are all always powered) and for the ACC I had to run a wire to the heated steering wheel fuse on the passenger side (The passenger side fuse box has both always on power and accessory power). For the lock and unlock signals I used Pins 2 and 4 of the K9 Body Control Module pink X6 connector. These are for the drivers door lock actuator.

 

Finally with the ignition off so that ACC is not powered connect the Fold control wires from the controller to the mirrors and press the lock and unlock button to get the polarity correct. If its wrong just flip the two wires for that corresponding mirror.

 

If you have any questions just reply!

 

IMG_6519.thumb.jpg.c742a88c9f1f296aeb0c14cc94265143.jpg

 

IMG_6520.thumb.jpg.d53f73f5ceac785aa24cffbf32fefdb3.jpg

 

IMG_6521.thumb.jpg.ee566b4bf8dd598824b2b620ad9acf75.jpg

 

IMG_6522.thumb.jpg.f1a3dabb137a0b0bf54868122f29fc0e.jpg

 

IMG_6523.thumb.jpg.884515fa1791d43c00aaaa85d0a67581.jpg

 

IMG_6547.thumb.jpg.7ec4eb9eb67e24f67ce7693dc6772185.jpg

 

You can see the Generic controller tucked away inside the drivers side fuse panel.

 

 

Hello, I know I’m really late to this. But I’m interested in knowing how it has held up? I have 2019 Chevy Silverado LT and I want to add the power fold mirrors.

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  • 3 weeks later...
9 minutes ago, FS00008 said:

Which controller did you buy exactly?

Side Rearview Mirror Auto Fold Unfold Controller,Mirror Closer Modules Folding Closer Module Universal Replacement for 12V Car https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0925NT3KB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BA3Z7RJWPJBRBDEZP0XC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

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On 3/18/2022 at 11:27 AM, CJ89 said:

Hello, I know I’m really late to this. But I’m interested in knowing how it has held up? I have 2019 Chevy Silverado LT and I want to add the power fold mirrors.

It hasn’t had any problems except for when the mirrors were iced up I would just break them free and they would operate as normal

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  • 1 year later...

Question, when you said that you tapped into the "Pins 2 and 4 of the K9 Body Control Module pink X6 connector", is this purely a signal or is this enough to run a cylinder for lock on a tonneau cover.  I am trying to find where to tap in to power this and the instructions that came with it says a tan and blue wire in the door sil...... yeah.... thanks.... none of those carry a voltage signal on power lock cycling, so I am at a loss where to connect and saw this thread.

 

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16 minutes ago, DasGoob said:

Question, when you said that you tapped into the "Pins 2 and 4 of the K9 Body Control Module pink X6 connector", is this purely a signal or is this enough to run a cylinder for lock on a tonneau cover.  I am trying to find where to tap in to power this and the instructions that came with it says a tan and blue wire in the door sil...... yeah.... thanks.... none of those carry a voltage signal on power lock cycling, so I am at a loss where to connect and saw this thread.

 

Haha I wish I had somebody to give me this information back then… pin 2 and 4 are actually for the drivers door lock actuator, I used these for a lock actuator inside my bed tool box so I can lock and unlock the toolbox from my remote just as you are trying to do for the tonneau cover.

 

you can use the GM Upfitter or body builders manual to find these connectors and pin outs 


https://www.gmupfitter.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/20_Sierra_1500_Electrical_Body_Builder_2019JUN20.pdf

 

pg.413 is where the BCM connectors start.


good luck 👍🏽 

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Ah this is the exact info I was looking for.  I will dig and find out where I can get this. 

 

I see.  You used it to actually have a separate switch for door lock/unlock in a different location.  Cool!

 

Correct me if I am wrong, but if I tap into the harness of the BCM, I need to use that as a signal for a relay, not to drive the actual lock/unlock solenoid.  I can use the signal to drive a relay with appropriate sized wiring for the current of a solenoid.  Unless I am reading this wrong. 

 

Good stuff what you did.  Thanks so much for the info.

Edited by DasGoob
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1 hour ago, DasGoob said:

Ah this is the exact info I was looking for.  I will dig and find out where I can get this. 

 

I see.  You used it to actually have a separate switch for door lock/unlock in a different location.  Cool!

 

Correct me if I am wrong, but if I tap into the harness of the BCM, I need to use that as a signal for a relay, not to drive the actual lock/unlock solenoid.  I can use the signal to drive a relay with appropriate sized wiring for the current of a solenoid.  Unless I am reading this wrong. 

 

Good stuff what you did.  Thanks so much for the info.

The pins from the BCM are going straight to the drivers door actuator(solenoid), these are the actual High Low signals for the actuator, no relay needed.

 

I did this so that I can unlock and lock my bed mount toolbox from the OEM truck remote key fob. 
 

The current from these actuation signals should be plenty for a second actuator in parallel, as it has worked perfectly fine for my toolbox as well as the power folding mirrors.

 

if the new actuator moves the wrong direction just reverse the polarity and it will move the other direction.

 

 

Edited by Aaaaaaaayush
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Yup!   You nailed it.  Dug into the schematics you sent and can see that these tiny wires carry the current for the solenoids in the doors, straight from the BCM, which blew me away.  I guess they are designed in a way that failed/grounded solenoids will not destroy the BCM.  Awesome.

 

Found the wires (Brown with Yellow and Grey), and they worked perfectly for what I needed.  50/50/90 and picked the wrong side but easy at the actuator to reverse polarity as you stated above.  Done and DONE!  Thank you so much for the info and the schematics.  So greatly appreciated!

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