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Thoughts on best oil and filter for 2020 6.2?  Dealer got oil on the engine and side of truck last time it was in for service.  Thinking about just doing the services at home with a Dexos approved oil and good filter.  I see the new Vette uses Mobil 1 now.

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Just did my second oil change at 8000(1 year), dealer did the first at 5k, I switched to Mobil 1 advanced fuel economy because that was the better brand that was available in 0W20. Can’t remember what filter but it definitely wasn’t a cheap one. By the way, rotating 35’s sucks. Oh and if you rotate tires yourself and want a tpms relearn tool, get the 9.99$ special from Walmart, ****** is legit.

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2 hours ago, GS357 S said:

Thoughts on best oil and filter for 2020 6.2?  Dealer got oil on the engine and side of truck last time it was in for service.  Thinking about just doing the services at home with a Dexos approved oil and good filter.  I see the new Vette uses Mobil 1 now.

The best oil is the one you change often enough to prevent depletion of the additive package and production of sludge and varnish. The best filter is the one that filters the smallest particle size and you change often enough to keep off bypass. That might sound like a smart-aleck  answer but it is right as rain.  I will guarantee you the OCI will be shorter than you think, shorter than the 'conventional' wisdoms of the world and popular opinion suggest. USE UAO to pinpoint the OCI. 

 

Based on ISO 4548-12 the two best filters are the Purolator Pure One PL22500 and the FRAM Ultra Guard XG10575 and in that order. One step coarser and still great the Royal Purple 20500, AMSOIL Ea017, FRAM FS10575 . Two steps lower and run of the mill, Purolator Red L22500, FRAM Extra Guard PH 05575, AC Delco PF63E, WIX WL10255, NAPA 100255. Three steps back, Mobil 1 M1-212A, Purolator PBL22500 or any other extended filter that list the ISO 4548-12 reference to 30 micron. Last rung on the ladder, stainless 'forever' filters and race filters like K&N which are 35 micron or larger. 

 

IF you choose to use a by-pass system such as the AMSOIL EaBP*** filters then you can run whatever you like as your primary. Mostly diesel guys run these but they have a place in gas motors as well. True, there are many half million mile motors on the road that don't use a bypass so....whatever you like. Just putting it out there. Incidentally those 'race filters', stainless and LOOSE synthetic long hauls filters would be good choices used WITH a bypass system.

 

IMHO...COSTCO Kirkland oil is just as good as Mobil 1. Same bases, same add package specs. All DEXOS 1 Gen 2 approved. Pick one and change it often. The rest is marketing.    

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The best oil is the one you buy...because that is your choice.

What is important to you may not be as important to others.

 

 

Whats the best gas?  Whats the best Beer?  Whats the best potato chips?  Whats the best coffee? 

Edited by elcamino
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58 minutes ago, elcamino said:

The best oil is the one you buy...because that is your choice.

What is important to you may not be as important to others.

 

Whats the best gas?  Whats the best Beer?  Whats the best potato chips?  Whats the best coffee? 

To a point. Beer, potato chips and coffee are a matter of taste. Gasoline and oil are a matter of performance and they both taste nasty! :crackup:

 

Since both have a standard to be met, i.e. DEXOS or Tier 1 which by Federal Law and/or API license chemically define them then the only 'performance' standard left in flux is price. 

 

IMHO of course. I don't personally consume either. 😉  So maybe I talk out of turn. 

 

Any oil with the DEXOS approval is sort of like going into a heard of Holstein cows and saying the milk from the first is better than the milk of the second. 

 

https://www.api.org/~/media/Files/Certification/Engine-Oil-Diesel/Publications/150918thedition-06282019.pdf

 

Run down to page 70 and read through page 77 for the list of test an oil must meet to get a SN, SN+ or SP API license. Then lower the NOACH and calcium and limit the base oil exchanges to mineral oils of Group II, III & III+ and you have the DEXOS standard. 

 

They are all milk from the same cow. 

 

 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
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9 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

The best oil is the one you change often enough to prevent depletion of the additive package and production of sludge and varnish. The best filter is the one that filters the smallest particle size and you change often enough to keep off bypass. That might sound like a smart-aleck  answer but it is right as rain.  I will guarantee you the OCI will be shorter than you think, shorter than the 'conventional' wisdoms of the world and popular opinion suggest. USE UAO to pinpoint the OCI. 

 

Based on ISO 4548-12 the two best filters are the Purolator Pure One PL22500 and the FRAM Ultra Guard XG10575 and in that order. One step coarser and still great the Royal Purple 20500, AMSOIL Ea017, FRAM FS10575 . Two steps lower and run of the mill, Purolator Red L22500, FRAM Extra Guard PH 05575, AC Delco PF63E, WIX WL10255, NAPA 100255. Three steps back, Mobil 1 M1-212A, Purolator PBL22500 or any other extended filter that list the ISO 4548-12 reference to 30 micron. Last rung on the ladder, stainless 'forever' filters and race filters like K&N which are 35 micron or larger. 

 

IF you choose to use a by-pass system such as the AMSOIL EaBP*** filters then you can run whatever you like as your primary. Mostly diesel guys run these but they have a place in gas motors as well. True, there are many half million mile motors on the road that don't use a bypass so....whatever you like. Just putting it out there. Incidentally those 'race filters', stainless and LOOSE synthetic long hauls filters would be good choices used WITH a bypass system.

 

IMHO...COSTCO Kirkland oil is just as good as Mobil 1. Same bases, same add package specs. All DEXOS 1 Gen 2 approved. Pick one and change it often. The rest is marketing.    

Grumpy Bear about nailed it here. There is lots of good information to make a good decision. 

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Quote

Any oil with the DEXOS approval is sort of like going into a heard of Holstein cows and saying the milk from the first is better than the milk of the second. 

I agree,  dexos spec'd oils are minimum requirement,  it doesn't mean by any means they are indeed the absolute best.

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12 hours ago, Sierra50BMG said:

Just did my second oil change at 8000(1 year), dealer did the first at 5k, I switched to Mobil 1 advanced fuel economy because that was the better brand that was available in 0W20. Can’t remember what filter but it definitely wasn’t a cheap one. By the way, rotating 35’s sucks. Oh and if you rotate tires yourself and want a tpms relearn tool, get the 9.99$ special from Walmart, ****** is legit.

Checking on the TPMS relearn tool you mentioned.  Yes, have 35's to rotate as well.  Thanks!

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First I wouldn’t except anything less than having the dealership shampoo the engine and clean your truck.

 

you were going to get 1000 different replies and you can research it on 10 different forms and get 10 different answers. For myself I have three questions that make my decision.

 

1.How often do I plan to change my oil in kilometres or hours?

2. How much strain am I actually putting on my engine? Am I towing regularly or just cruising around town.? ( this may change answer to question 1)

3. How much do I feel comfortable spending on said  oil? 

 

We have sponsorship from a company that is reputable and has specs available online and is used across the world in various disciplines of sport. Is it the best? Who knows, but its used in far more abusive situations than my truck will likely incur.  That price consideration and peace of mind knowing that I am not getting a garbage product in addition to my answers to the three questions above makes it a winner for me when I choose to go back to doing my own oil changes.Fortunately the filter is within the brand specs at the top grumpybear listed so that will be my route also. 
 

When I bought my truck it came with two free oil changes and another two free oil changes were worked into the deal so that is going to be my route as it is the most economical until they are used up.

 

Different strokes. And understanding of your specific requirements/ piece of mind will always get you further than  2nd hand opinions. 

 

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My first oil change resulted in a huge oil spill in my garage floor that night as they didn’t tighten the filter and it leaked all over my garage floor. It was free but then again it wasn’t!

 

Have been doing my own since. Easy on this tall truck. Now can someone explain more about the TPMS relearn? I can’t simply rotate my tires?

Edited by JohnTz
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