steelerdude15 Posted January 27, 2021 Share Posted January 27, 2021 36 minutes ago, flyingfool said: for the cost of a throttle enhancer or a DIablo tuner crap, just buy the mpvi and the credits from summit racing for your truck, there is soo much tweaking of basic stuff that enhances the durability and performance, Don’t we have to pay to unlock our trucks so we can mess with them? Isn’t that something that started in 2017? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfool Posted January 27, 2021 Author Share Posted January 27, 2021 (edited) 18 minutes ago, steelerdude15 said: Don’t we have to pay to unlock our trucks so we can mess with them? Isn’t that something that started in 2017? only 8speed transmission has a tuning cost to undo encryption. atleast thats what i've heard on here.. if its got a 6speed your fine. even with the 8 speed just tuning the motor alone is worth the cost Edited January 27, 2021 by flyingfool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelerdude15 Posted January 27, 2021 Share Posted January 27, 2021 20 minutes ago, flyingfool said: only 8speed transmission has a tuning cost to undo encryption. atleast thats what i've heard on here.. if its got a 6speed your fine. even with the 8 speed just tuning the motor alone is worth the cost Luckily I have the 6L80. The only things I want to do is turn off AFM, increase the idle just enough so if feels it doesn’t idle rough, and get the transmission to shift smoothly. That’s really about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfool Posted January 27, 2021 Author Share Posted January 27, 2021 (edited) well its a no brainer then, easy japanesey . i found 625 rpm is perfect. at idle. i tried 675rpm and it was a bit touchy off the line. you figure it out. go for it man! once you get the interface do the the TCC lock up tune , you'll love driving the truck more. Edited January 27, 2021 by flyingfool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfool Posted February 4, 2021 Author Share Posted February 4, 2021 On 1/17/2021 at 1:23 PM, JONBLARC7 said: The only time I’ve had them higher is when I was tuning form part throttle fueling tuning and I didn’t want it to go into PE. whats your PE enabled torque table look like, ? i set it to be a flat 50% torque enable 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JONBLARC7 Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 I left it stock at 60% 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ic3man5 Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 On 1/11/2021 at 10:43 AM, flyingfool said: JUst zeroed out the slip tables on the TCC, wow it feels so good when I get full lock up now. Also set the min speed in V4 mode down to 40mph this seems to be a better place to have it activate. gonna start increasing my shift point speed , then increase clutch pressures and firmness next. -Zero out the Apply Ramp table also. Even with the TCC Desired Slip tables all at zero I couldn't get the slipping to completely go away. -Increase the Regulator Offset will make the lockup firmer. 310.3 kPa is max I would set it to as you start to feel the driveline slop a lot over that. -Don't go below 0.7998 on 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 torque management upshift torque factor (This controls how much timing is removed in between shifts, this keeps it under 70ft/lbs if I remember right, stock is negative torque) -Upshift Pattern X Shift Pressures increased in 5% increments (I'm around 20%) -Reset adapts every time you program for transmission pressures (Inside VCM Scanner I reset/load presets while engine off key on and turn the key off and open door before starting). Transmission needs at least one shift at the RPM range (0,1,2 - low, medium, high) to have the adapts adjust. First shift on a cold start will always have the converter locked and firmer shift (I believe its the controller calibrating every time). -Look for a program called Bluecat for shift point tuning for a better base. -Not sure if its in the actual release yet (might still be in beta) but "zero" out the Torque Request Rate Limit tables to eliminate delays in the throttle (this might annoy you if your pedal has a lot of flex in it - crap GM mounting to try and eliminate vibrations). Hope this helps, happy tuning! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ic3man5 Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 On 1/27/2021 at 12:50 AM, flyingfool said: well its a no brainer then, easy japanesey . i found 625 rpm is perfect. at idle. i tried 675rpm and it was a bit touchy off the line. you figure it out. go for it man! once you get the interface do the the TCC lock up tune , you'll love driving the truck more. 700 was my target point, I played with every RPM in 5 RPM increments to find the smoothest idle. Everything else sucked. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfool Posted February 5, 2021 Author Share Posted February 5, 2021 (edited) 11 hours ago, ic3man5 said: -Zero out the Apply Ramp table also. Even with the TCC Desired Slip tables all at zero I couldn't get the slipping to completely go away. -Increase the Regulator Offset will make the lockup firmer. 310.3 kPa is max I would set it to as you start to feel the driveline slop a lot over that. -Don't go below 0.7998 on 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 torque management upshift torque factor (This controls how much timing is removed in between shifts, this keeps it under 70ft/lbs if I remember right, stock is negative torque) -Upshift Pattern X Shift Pressures increased in 5% increments (I'm around 20%) -Reset adapts every time you program for transmission pressures (Inside VCM Scanner I reset/load presets while engine off key on and turn the key off and open door before starting). Transmission needs at least one shift at the RPM range (0,1,2 - low, medium, high) to have the adapts adjust. First shift on a cold start will always have the converter locked and firmer shift (I believe its the controller calibrating every time). -Look for a program called Bluecat for shift point tuning for a better base. -Not sure if its in the actual release yet (might still be in beta) but "zero" out the Torque Request Rate Limit tables to eliminate delays in the throttle (this might annoy you if your pedal has a lot of flex in it - crap GM mounting to try and eliminate vibrations). Hope this helps, happy tuning! I will try your recommendations this weekend when i get time.. i have the blue cat program, not ready to tweak the shift points as a daily driver it feels good enough, I'm having trouble finding the gear kick down area to adjust. The 6l80 down shifts too easily and drops down too many gears.. i need help there.. still trying to figure out how to get 100% on the throttle Edited February 5, 2021 by flyingfool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CamGTP Posted February 5, 2021 Share Posted February 5, 2021 I've played with those Decreasing/Increasing tables before but noticed no real change at all, kinda just left them stock. I think I maybe went down to like .9100 or .9400 on the shift torque factor. I still pull timing to around -5 to -10 degrees on the shift to keep things happy. If you're talking about how the throttle doesn't read to 100% on the TPS channel, that is normal. That channel only reads to 84%. Log a different TPS/APP channel to see what it's doing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ic3man5 Posted February 5, 2021 Share Posted February 5, 2021 2 hours ago, flyingfool said: I will try your recommendations this weekend when i get time.. i have the blue cat program, not ready to tweak the shift points as a daily driver it feels good enough, I'm having trouble finding the gear kick down area to adjust. The 6l80 down shifts too easily and drops down too many gears.. i need help there.. still trying to figure out how to get 100% on the throttle Throttle only goes to around 82% like CamGTP said. Its to allow for hysteria and tolerances in the pedal. You'll never see 100%. Its easier to figure out bluecat then to manually adjust the shift points. You will be amazed how much better the shift points can get on a good tune. Here are majority of the tables for tuning the shift points on the transmission. Need to match the upshifts with the downshifts while making sure the torque converter locking is okay also. RPM limiters need to be increased also if raising it shift points. I keep mine at 5800 as its the max rated for the L83 even though people go way higher. Bluecat takes care of all these tables for you. I've spent more time then I care to admit in the transmission tuning section, lol. 1 hour ago, CamGTP said: I've played with those Decreasing/Increasing tables before but noticed no real change at all, kinda just left them stock. I think I maybe went down to like .9100 or .9400 on the shift torque factor. I still pull timing to around -5 to -10 degrees on the shift to keep things happy. The tables only smooth out how fast the torque is demanded on quick pedal changes, for example quick WOT when cruising or quick WOT at idle; if you don't drive like a dick you probably won't notice it (I get 11MPG). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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