Afm problem

amxguy1970 · October 7, 2020

4 hours ago, TX LIMO said:

I have a 15 CC and just had to have the lifters replaced because of the shitty AFM. I was running a tune with the AFM disabled and somehow still had it go out. That’s the only thing I hate about the truck. Other than I think it’s one of the best trucks I’ve owned. I considered just getting a crate motor and doing away with it. There is a tech bulletin about this but they won’t recall knowing there is an issue. I think there was a class action suit going around for this specific thing in the 2014-2015 models.

Edited to add: mine just rolled over 60k last week.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wait hold up, you had AFM disabled and still had a failure? But everyone says if you tune it out you won't have an issue, that can't be right...

4 hours ago, Bob2C said:

Were you under warranty? If so did they cover even though you had a tune? I have a tune with it disabled as well still under warranty.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Would love to hear how you have a tune and a warranty. A tune pretty much negates any drivetrain warranty as that is out of GM design specs and they will check for that if there is a failure, it is in all their procedure manuals on what to look for before proceeding to a warranty claim and reimbursement.

4 hours ago, TX LIMO said:

The stealership tried but kicked the numbers over to GM and they said it wasn’t covered because the numbers weren’t within specs. Probably due to the tune. I was pissed. But $300 and something for the parts wasn’t too bad I guess. It was the other $2600 for labor to troubleshoot the issue is where they got me. I was not in the mood to fight it since I needed my truck back.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As it shouldn't be, you had it tuned. You have to pay to play. That is why I wait until after the warranty to really start messing with anything I am not prepared to cover, I don't expect GM to replace my engine failure if I am running around with some significant mods or have a tune changing how it runs.

2 hours ago, Bob2C said:

Would an engine flush say like an amsoil product every few oil changes be a good thing to do to prevent any buildup?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Maybe, just use any good quality oil and change it regularly as there is nothing special about amsoil outside of the marketing.

2 hours ago, mookdoc6 said:

Dang! I am next I bet I will be #61 of the AFM engines that have gone to crap! Wow, Frankenchrist engines I tell ya!

Fixed that for ya so as not to mislead the public...

Tyler

TXGREEK · October 7, 2020

Good lord, I’ve never seen so many cheap asses on these forums, Amsoil is the superior product, everyone’s that’s started using Amsoil has loved the results and never looked back. Those who claim otherwise are searching for the cheapest minimum required oil Walmart shoppers at best and feel less when high end oil users are present.

Amsoil has ZERO negative, “REAL” 100% Synthetic oil, not full synthetic which isn’t 100%. Independent tests have shown Amsoil to give 4X better engine protection that Mobil1’s best Annual Protection, that says a lot and for only $10 per quart it’s a no brainer. Don’t know why any and every time Amsoil is discussed, the insecure cheap asses come out and try to justify their Walmart oil purchases.

Do your homework, you’ll see for yourself.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

TXGREEK · October 8, 2020

Would an engine flush say like an amsoil product every few oil changes be a good thing to do to prevent any buildup?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Weren’t you already using Amsoil? I’ve been using it for years and “NEVER EVER” had any engine issues. It’s 100% synthetic not blended full synthetic. I’m running 0w20 along with Amsoil oil filter in my tuned 6.2, extremely impressed with never needing to add oil due to consumption or burn off. Engine runs smoother too. Do your homework, only cheap asses reach out to attack a far superior and obviously out of their price range when compared to their minimum required early OCI oil.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pell4 · October 8, 2020

12 hours ago, Lsgun1 said:

Before the new one goes in just change the cam and lifters to delete the AFM. Now you're back to bulletproof 5.3

Little late for me new one is in.I asked if they would delete it at the dealership and got the no can do.I guess I roll the dice on the new motor or win the lotto and go duramax

CamGTP · October 8, 2020

If Valvoline 0W20 is on sale for $15 for 5 quarts I'm buying that over $10 a bottle Amsoil. If Valvoline has never done me wrong in the last 12 years why spend more money. I can do 3 oil changes for the cost of one Amsoil oil change.

What I always want to see and what no one can seem to give is this. I want two identical engines run for roughly the same amount of miles and I'm talking like 80-100k miles here in the real world. One running an oil like Valvoline or Mobil 1 and one running Amsoil. Both engine run the same change interval, say 5,000 miles and I want oil samples at the last oil change before both engines are taken apart and inspected. If after all that it can show that the Amsoil engine is way healthier and will last longer just because of it's 100% synthetic oil, then maybe I will forever buy that oil.

I'm not here to say it's a bad product because it's not, it's something I tell customers about all the time if they have a specific need for that oil. You want to go 15-20k on a change with a filter swap half way through and a top off of oil, then that is the oil for you. The guy that does 5,000 mile changes, that's a personal preference on how you want to spend your money. After that the Amsoil is going to be far better the longer you wish to go.

TXGREEK · October 8, 2020

If Valvoline 0W20 is on sale for $15 for 5 quarts I'm buying that over $10 a bottle Amsoil. If Valvoline has never done me wrong in the last 12 years why spend more money. I can do 3 oil changes for the cost of one Amsoil oil change.

What I always want to see and what no one can seem to give is this. I want two identical engines run for roughly the same amount of miles and I'm talking like 80-100k miles here in the real world. One running an oil like Valvoline or Mobil 1 and one running Amsoil. Both engine run the same change interval, say 5,000 miles and I want oil samples at the last oil change before both engines are taken apart and inspected. If after all that it can show that the Amsoil engine is way healthier and will last longer just because of it's 100% synthetic oil, then maybe I will forever buy that oil.

I'm not here to say it's a bad product because it's not, it's something I tell customers about all the time if they have a specific need for that oil. You want to go 15-20k on a change with a filter swap half way through and a top off of oil, then that is the oil for you. The guy that does 5,000 mile changes, that's a personal preference on how you want to spend your money. After that the Amsoil is going to be far better the longer you wish to go.

That’s the whole point, automobile industry has taken a step back on their long intervals based on the minimum requirements required by their engineers in order to just keep their motors running, not to extend their engine life, just keep it going at least til the warranty is over then you start to see the negative experiences that you see on these forums about break downs especially with AFM which has already been determined to be oil related. We can all agree that Amsoil isn’t a better oil because it’s more expensive, it’s because it “CAN” be run to 15-20k miles because of its ability to far surpass in protection and with an actual 25k mile Amsoil Filter, there’s no need to swap oil filters.

People should get whatever they want and can afford. But it’s not the price of the oil that should make you want it, it’s what’s going on in between the oil change intervals (OCI’s) that matters. To this day, I’ve never met an Amsoil user with any engine oil related breakdowns, you’ll see engine break downs all throughout these forums especially when using cheap oil.

Many have stated that their engines have started to run smoother, less noise when switched to Amsoil.

Amsoil is the perfect solution for those that want the maximum protection given by an oil between their OCI’s. Meaning, nothing else protects like Amsoil.

Buy whatever you want, buy whatever you can afford but most of all, what’s it worth to the person that’s quality driven and not the minimum required to keep it running till warranty is out.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Grumpy Bear · October 8, 2020

3 hours ago, amxguy1970 said:

Maybe, just use any good quality oil and change it regularly as there is nothing special about amsoil outside of the marketing. Fixed that for ya so as not to mislead the public...

There are three current oils I am aware of whose base oils are PAO and at least 45% POE. AMSOIL is one of these three. Add package aside this alone is a clear advantage over any Group II/Group III or GTL base oil. There is nothing marketing about that FACT. Believing this isn't so is clearly misleading the public.....IMHO....naturally.

3 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

If Valvoline has never done me wrong in the last 12 years why spend more money.

I used Quaker State as one of my 'go to' oils for a very long time and it never did me wrong either.....until it did. Now I've had a cat fight on my hands with a GM 2.4L as these Group III severe hydrocracked oils varnished my rings to the point of collapse. 5K OCI's and WIX filters. I have seen this level of oil failure from a mineral based oil since oil came in paper cans and we scooped Pennzoil out of lifter galleys with ice cream scoops in the buss garage.

GM's pursuit of EPA target tactics like extreme heat and low tension oil rings combine with ridiculous OCI intervals has exceeded the oxidation limits of anything under a Group IV at the advertised OCI's. Even GM has crawfished on these intervals while using SN or SN PLUS Dexos2 approved oils.

Now I'm not saying you can't use a Group III but I will tell you, and so will GM that if you do, the OCI needs to be MUCH shorter. They have been unwilling to define 'much shorter' but they have have driven a new OEM API spec...SP and one of the MAIN specifications is a MUCH lower deposit level requirement. They know what's going on.

I can also tell you that the babies of my fleet have from early on been on diets of POE based oils and at 300K look new inside.

IF I have to change my Valvoline every 3K but my POE every 5K there is no 'cost' to it's use. I pay $9.48 a quart for AMSOIL Pennzoil Ultra Platinum cost about the same. Schaeffer my local distributor has at $12 a quart. Valvoline about $7 a quart. At this price difference and OCI difference the cost of the POE is roughly 20% cheaper in oil and the cost of a filter ever fifth oil change.

KARNUT · October 8, 2020

Most people seem to miss the whole point of synthetics. Especially Amsoil. For decades we’ve used Amsoil in gas and diesels. Did the testing. Even mounted remote filters and super extended with no oil beak down. Some people changed their oil more frequently using Amsoil for additional protection. It’s not necessary to change oil every 3-4K with Amsoil. There’s no problem with that though. Using Amsoil as advertised saves time and money.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Grumpy Bear · October 8, 2020

12 hours ago, Pell4 said:

Little late for me new one is in.I asked if they would delete it at the dealership and got the no can do.I guess I roll the dice on the new motor or win the lotto and go duramax

Duramax? You could do that, sure. Or...you could from day one prevent the most common cause of failure. Oil choice/oil maintenance. Deposits kill these 'Swiss Watch' like systems. Prevent the deposits, prevent the preventable failures. The outright flaw related mechanical failures happed to everyone with or without AFM across every make and model sold. Abuse failures are just a case of 'ya can't fix stupid'.

diyer2 · October 8, 2020

14 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

Aren’t the majority of oils off the shelf

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Off the shelf oil to me is what ever you buy off a store shelf. You don't buy Amsoil , Redline off the shelf do you?

TXGREEK · October 8, 2020

Off the shelf oil to me is what ever you buy off a store shelf. You don't buy Amsoil , Redline off the shelf do you?

That’s correct, only highest protection oils are ordered, just got a few boxes in.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CamGTP · October 9, 2020

The majority of the Napa stores around me all stock Amsoil on the shelf.

Only the racing oils from them are stuff you have to order in.

TXGREEK · October 9, 2020

The majority of the Napa stores around me all stock Amsoil on the shelf.

Only the racing oils from them are stuff you have to order in.

I’ll have to check into that, I’ve asked Amsoil which stores have their products and said only select performance stores. Who would’ve ever thought Napa Auto Parts would sell Amsoil lol.

Wonder what they’re selling it for cause it wouldn’t sell fast off the shelf if sold at MSRP.

I’ll call Napa headquarters tomorrow and ask.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CamGTP · October 9, 2020

Corporate stores and Independent stores are going to be different for sure.

The couple that are near me are all independent stores. Prices are around the $10-12 per quart for most signature series and a tad cheaper for the XL stuff if I remember right. And you can get gallon jugs of the most popular stuff like 0W20, 5W20, 5W30. Both the signature series and XL stuff and the gallon jugs are little cheaper than buying 4 individual quarts.

TXGREEK · October 9, 2020

Corporate stores and Independent stores are going to be different for sure.

The couple that are near me are all independent stores. Prices are around the $10-12 per quart for most signature series and a tad cheaper for the XL stuff if I remember right. And you can get gallon jugs of the most popular stuff like 0W20, 5W20, 5W30. Both the signature series and XL stuff and the gallon jugs are little cheaper than buying 4 individual quarts.

Yeah, it’s cheaper that way at Amsoil too by maybe .50¢

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk