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Catch Can Question


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I have been convinced it's in the best interest of my 2016 HC to install a catch can, considering this catch can.  It has the bronze filter and baffle.  I have 2 questions about this and the Silverado install.  Why do they provide 4 fittings for the can?  Why do they provide only 2 hose clamps? Wont I need to use small hose clamps to attach to my PCV and head since I wont have the quick connects anymore?   Is the hose size provided correct for our engines?

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If you are going to buy a can, get a good one.  Look at Elite or UPR.  They come as complete kits with everything you need.  If you buy a cheapy can, you're going to wish you spent the extra money later anyway.

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i used one for awhile then once i switched to a 5-30 w  , oil consumption ceased to be an issue... now i'm back to stock and tossed the can .. your oil consumption issue might be caused by engine breaking in still

 

 better to spend the money elsewhere

Edited by flyingfool
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37 minutes ago, Mike GMC said:

If you are going to buy a can, get a good one.  Look at Elite or UPR.  They come as complete kits with everything you need.  If you buy a cheapy can, you're going to wish you spent the extra money later anyway.

Thanks for the reply, looking at UPR's https://uprproducts.com/14-18-gm-chevrolet-gmc-truck-5-3l-single-valve-oil-catch-can-separator-plug-n-play/

 

Big sucker.

 

Is the check valve necessary?  It appears to be an option on their order page.

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31 minutes ago, flyingfool said:

i used one for awhile then once i switched to a 5-30 w  , oil consumption ceased to be an issue... now i'm back to stock and tossed the can .. your oil consumption issue might be caused by engine breaking in still

 

 better to spend the money elsewhere

I dont understand your reply.  I dont have any oil consumption issue. Catch can is to stop crap/oil from spewing from PCV back into the engine.

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1 hour ago, Mike GMC said:

If you are going to buy a can, get a good one.  Look at Elite or UPR.  They come as complete kits with everything you need.  If you buy a cheapy can, you're going to wish you spent the extra money later anyway.

come on, this high quality chinese crap comes complete with two "hose claps" and everything. Looks fantastic.

 

image.png.9e7cd2e36aec6d03f283dd3d286df174.png

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28 minutes ago, AE1M said:

I dont understand your reply.  I dont have any oil consumption issue. Catch can is to stop crap/oil from spewing from PCV back into the engine.

well  if oil is sucking past pcv into engine, you got oil consumption issues.

 

when i went to the thicker oil and full synthertic oil this stopped the pcv oil injestion problem for me... like i said i t might be breaking in the motor still so the parts arent all seated yet

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17 minutes ago, aseibel said:

come on, this high quality chinese crap comes complete with two "hose claps" and everything. Looks fantastic.

 

image.png.9e7cd2e36aec6d03f283dd3d286df174.png

Yeah, I get it.  THis one's off the table.  I like the UPR product previously suggested.  That's a benefit of the forum.

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well  if oil is sucking past pcv into engine, you got oil consumption issues.
 
when i went to the thicker oil and full synthertic oil this stopped the pcv oil injestion problem for me... like i said i t might be breaking in the motor still so the parts arent all seated yet
Pcv is still ran into the intake unless there is a factory catch can which even those don't catch everything
Your going to have an oil film in your intake that will cake up on the intake valves without port injection there going to get dirty quicker and eventually cause misfire/ destination and when there caked that bad you have to use a blasting medea to remove it.

Previous turbo car I used seafoam intake cleaner every oil change and had very little build up after 50k but the car has a factory catch can and oil film was very little in the intake. But people where getting misfires around 150k miles.

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From the Long Term Carbon Deposits Thread.

 

 

JONBLARC7  120,000 miles WITHOUT a catch can. 

 

17AAB907-6B1D-47CA-8CD0-696E89EC85A5.jpeg

 

10 hours ago, AE1M said:

I dont understand your reply.  I dont have any oil consumption issue. Catch can is to stop crap/oil from spewing from PCV back into the engine.

What he is telling you is that, it is oil from the crankcase that gets into the manifold. IF it isn't leaving the crankcase it can't get into the manifold and the example above proves. 

 

Moral of the story? If it uses oil use a can. If it doesn't then, as he suggest, your wasting your money. Money you could spend on some other bobble you REALLY like. ? 

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46 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

From the Long Term Carbon Deposits Thread.

 

 

JONBLARC7  120,000 miles WITHOUT a catch can. 

 

17AAB907-6B1D-47CA-8CD0-696E89EC85A5.jpeg

 

What he is telling you is that, it is oil from the crankcase that gets into the manifold. IF it isn't leaving the crankcase it can't get into the manifold and the example above proves. 

 

Moral of the story? If it uses oil use a can. If it doesn't then, as he suggest, your wasting your money. Money you could spend on some other bobble you REALLY like. ? 

Oh my, 30k more miles and he will have a miss fire right Gregory? :rollin:

 

Nice picture, thanks for posting! Mirrors most any other pic I have seen inside a GM DI engine. 

 

If people did more research on this they would realize a few things. One, all the engines that were known for having huge valve choking issues weren't originally designed for and were adapted to DI. Two, designers and engineers are well aware of what causes this and have systems in place to fight it more so than some guy who owns a speed parts store trying to sell their stuff for a buck (seriously $15 in parts for $250! all for a promise to fix something that isn't a well known widely found issue). Three, it isn't caused by what you think. An article from one of the lead designers on the latest gen GM V8's stated is was mostly due to fuel used (hence the top tier), timing of the injection, spark and valves closing when they were in the early design steps (this is after their internal PCV system is already in place). It wasn't because of oil coming through the intake, a little was but not enough to be of concern long term. They optimized the combustion chamber to reduce valve coating through all the items listed before. There is a reason you aren't hearing or seeing issues with newer engines, a catch can isn't going to save you from anything unless maybe you are shooting for that million mile free truck mark (though a catch can might cost you an engine or warranty as a few have found out). Each can freely do what they choose to believe but I choose to believe the engineers and designers who have computers/programs worth more than my house and used by professional race teams simulating test parameters as well as top engine builders giving input after tearing them down (more engine teardowns/builds in a month than I'll in have my entire lifetime) and checking them for issues and what they see. It is mis-statements like you will have a failure in X amount of miles if you don't do this or use/change to this oil brand/mileage or you will have the best performance with this tire/shock or you are safe to level until this height that keeps the lazy people buying the wrong stuff with misinformation and doing the incorrect things and later asking the repetitive questions. Seriously, a half teaspoon of oil every 6k miles caught before getting in to the hottest part of the engine and evaporating or a half full can of condensed water mixed with a smidge of oil residue is proof? :dunno:

 

Tyler

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Oh my, 30k more miles and he will have a miss fire right Gregory? :rollin:
 
Nice picture, thanks for posting! Mirrors most any other pic I have seen inside a GM DI engine. 
 
If people did more research on this they would realize a few things. One, all the engines that were known for having huge valve choking issues weren't originally designed for and were adapted to DI. Two, designers and engineers are well aware of what causes this and have systems in place to fight it more so than some guy who owns a speed parts store trying to sell their stuff for a buck (seriously $15 in parts for $250! all for a promise to fix something that isn't a well known widely found issue). Three, it isn't caused by what you think. An article from one of the lead designers on the latest gen GM V8's stated is was mostly due to fuel used (hence the top tier), timing of the injection, spark and valves closing when they were in the early design steps (this is after their internal PCV system is already in place). It wasn't because of oil coming through the intake, a little was but not enough to be of concern long term. They optimized the combustion chamber to reduce valve coating through all the items listed before. There is a reason you aren't hearing or seeing issues with newer engines, a catch can isn't going to save you from anything unless maybe you are shooting for that million mile free truck mark (though a catch can might cost you an engine or warranty as a few have found out). Each can freely do what they choose to believe but I choose to believe the engineers and designers who have computers/programs worth more than my house and used by professional race teams simulating test parameters as well as top engine builders giving input after tearing them down (more engine teardowns/builds in a month than I'll in have my entire lifetime) and checking them for issues and what they see. It is mis-statements like you will have a failure in X amount of miles if you don't do this or use/change to this oil brand/mileage or you will have the best performance with this tire/shock or you are safe to level until this height that keeps the lazy people buying the wrong stuff with misinformation and doing the incorrect things and later asking the repetitive questions. Seriously, a half teaspoon of oil every 6k miles caught before getting in to the hottest part of the engine and evaporating or a half full can of condensed water mixed with a smidge of oil residue is proof? :dunno:
 
Tyler
Those do looked really good far better then I have seen on turbo car at that point with no catch can.
The bad build up he has on one valve is only maybe half but probably less then Half of the coking it needs to get missfire.
But you will see the worst on the back parts of the engine where to air has to go the farthest.

The comments on that page are kinda crazy I would like to see someone use a known high quality catch can on the motor from new and see what it looks like at 130k to compare apples to apples although even gas quality and how the owners drive make for more variables.

Watching another video on youtube of the camera in the intake showed lots of gas getting past the intake port into the intake as well adding to the confusion of theory.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

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7 hours ago, Gregory Krisa said:

Those do looked really good far better then I have seen on turbo car at that point with no catch can.

 

The bad build up he has on one valve is only maybe half but probably less then Half of the coking it needs to get missfire.
But you will see the worst on the back parts of the engine where to air has to go the farthest.

 

I've seen much worse in the 60's from carbureted motors.

What you see on the valve stem is from the valve seal. Not the PCV. 

That is 120 THOUSAND miles you're looking at.

F.U.D.

:dunno:

 

 

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Using a catch can is a personal decision. You think it's a good thing or you don't. The cost is another matter. 

The debates about catch cans, oil, oil filters and every thing else comes down to what your personal take is on the subject. 

My personal take is it can't do any harm. 

I went with Moroso for my truck. 

 

There are cheaper and more expensive cans. Any can is better than no can if you decide to put one on your vehicle. 

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