Mobil1 new oil filter?

[mookdoc6]

12 minutes ago, swathdiver said:

Swore those off when I realized they were dropping my oil pressure about 3 psi compared with the K&N and it only filters down to 30 microns while the K&N is down to 10-12 @ 99% and flows 16 gallons per minute versus 11.2 for M1.  Love the 1" nut too!

I agree with that and had a relative throw a code on GM vehicle because of the M1-212A not a truck but a uber finicky GM GDI

[TXGREEK]

Swore those off when I realized they were dropping my oil pressure about 3 psi compared with the K&N and it only filters down to 30 microns while the K&N is down to 10-12 @ 99% and flows 16 gallons per minute versus 11.2 for M1.  Love the 1" nut too!

Wait! You’re using K&N oil filter and not Amsoil? Flow rate is VERY important to me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Colossus]

12 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

My way of thinking is, worse case scenario: “what if” things got worse, economic collapse or you’ve got to be on the road a long time, you can’t get to changing your oil and you’re already up there in mileage? I’d rather be using the highest quality just in case I’m stuck not being able to access oil and filter.

 

 

Not unreasonable...

[TXGREEK]

Not unreasonable...

Ya think [emoji6]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[spenpet]

18 hours ago, swathdiver said:

Swore those off when I realized they were dropping my oil pressure about 3 psi compared with the K&N and it only filters down to 30 microns while the K&N is down to 10-12 @ 99% and flows 16 gallons per minute versus 11.2 for M1.  Love the 1" nut too!

i've looked into the K&N before...i cant remember if bad reviews or availability scared me away last time...i'll have to look back into them...

[diyer2]

Ok Ok 

After thinking about this I decided to buy a couple Purolator Boss oil filters for the new Honda. Been using Wix oil filters. Not the XP line. 

 

My thread about the oil in this car getting dirty quick 

so I decided to upgrade the oil filter. 

Will try the Purolator Boss next oil change.

[diyer2]

The Purolator oil filter line 

https://www.pureoil.com/en/do-it-yourself/oil-filters/oil-filter-selection-guide/

 

 

[mookdoc6]

1 hour ago, diyer2 said:

Ok Ok 

After thinking about this I decided to buy a couple Purolator Boss oil filters for the new Honda. Been using Wix oil filters. Not the XP line. 

 

My thread about the oil in this car getting dirty quick 

so I decided to upgrade the oil filter. 

Will try the Purolator Boss next oil change.

Wow...going out on a limb hey?  Good for you different can be good!

[swathdiver]

10 hours ago, diyer2 said:

The Purolator oil filter line 

https://www.pureoil.com/en/do-it-yourself/oil-filters/oil-filter-selection-guide/

 

 

I have tried for some time to get the specs of these filters without success.  Website seems to be down or my BitDefender is not liking a certificate or something.

[Grumpy Bear]

1 hour ago, swathdiver said:

I have tried for some time to get the specs of these filters without success.  Website seems to be down or my BitDefender is not liking a certificate or something.

Try email. This for the Pure One: [email protected].

 

Purolator Pure One's raw ISO 4548-12 data sheet numbers. 

 

B2 = below 5 m

B10 = 6.69 m

B20 = >8 m

B75 = >11 m

B100 = 11.42 m

B200 = >13 m

B1000 = >15 m

 

If you really want to know how well your filter filters draw samples and request a cleanliness test. ISO 4406:99.

  

Edited October 1, 2020 by Grumpy Bear

[swathdiver]

12 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Try email. This for the Pure One: [email protected].

 

Purolator Pure One's raw ISO 4548-12 data sheet numbers. 

 

B2 = below 5 m

B10 = 6.69 m

B20 = >8 m

B75 = >11 m

B100 = 11.42 m

B200 = >13 m

B1000 = >15 m

 

If you really want to know how well your filter filters draw samples and request a cleanliness test. ISO 4406:99.

  

I tried going there anyway too, didn't work for me.  Thanks for the info, guess I need to brush up on what all those B-numbers mean.

[diyer2]

Found this site for oil filter data.

http://oilfilterdata.com/index.php

 

 

[Grumpy Bear]

2 hours ago, swathdiver said:

I tried going there anyway too, didn't work for me.  Thanks for the info, guess I need to brush up on what all those B-numbers mean.

Go to Filtration 3

 

[diyer2]

A New Oil Specification for GDI Engines

This year brought us a new specification for motor oil; ILSAC GF-6 / API SP. One of the primary goals of the new oil spec is to reduce incidence of two problems gasoline direct injection (GDI) engines have been experiencing. GDI blasts the fuel directly into the combustion chamber at high pressure. This leaves less time for the air and fuel to mix together. The resulting air/fuel mixture may burn unevenly which may generate a lot of soot. As the pistons move up and down, the soot gets mixed into the motor oil. The soot travels with the motor oil through the engine and causes wear. The most noticeable wear often occurs between the pins and bushings that hold timing chains together. As the bushing holes wear and enlarge, the timing chains stretch. Eventually the timing chains may stretch to the point that they slip across gear teeth or otherwise are unable to correctly connect the crankshaft to the camshafts. The computer generates a trouble code, the engine goes into limp-in mode and/or the engine stops running. GF-6 / SP oil resists collecting and circulating the harmful soot. GF-6, API SP and API SN PLUS on label The second problem, low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI), is also related to the uneven burning of air/fuel in GDI engines; specifically, turbocharged GDI engines. When running at relatively low RPM and under heavy load, like when moving away from a dead stop, severe knocking may occur inside the cylinders. Scientists figured out that traces of engine oil mixing and burning with the air/fuel mixture contributes to the damaging engine knock. GF-5 / SN-Plus spec oil was released a couple of years ago to combat this problem (watch for the “Plus” after SN). The new GF-6 / SP oil helps with both the soot and knock problems. Ford has produced the most turbocharged GDI engines. Small 1L, three-cylinder Ford EcoBoost engines power Ford Fiestas, and big 3.5L, six-cylinder EcoBoost motors are in work trucks that rack up a lot of severe-duty (towing, dust, etc.) miles. The soot and knock problems have been studied most thoroughly on EcoBoost engines. The new specification actually requires that new GF-6 / SP oils pass tests running in Ford EcoBoost motors! GDI / Direct Injection in part descriptions and Info page These new oils, higher fuel injection pressures, intake manifold port injection coupled with GDI, etc. help solve these problems on older engines and prevent them on newer engines. GDI engine owners may be able to help the most by simply changing their vehicles' motor oil frequently and always using the correct oil. Instead of waiting for the longest, light-duty, oil change interval (often 7,000+ miles/11,000+ km), change the oil closer to the severe-duty interval (often 3,000 miles/5,000 km). You can check to see if your specific vehicle's engine uses GDI by looking at the “Info” pages and part descriptions for the engine's Fuel Injectors found under “Fuel & Air” in the RockAuto.com catalog. Find the correct engine Oil for your vehicle under “Engine.” Oil is also listed by viscosity/weight under the “Tools & Universal Parts” tab. Note: The “A” in GF-6A means the oil is a viscosity/weight compatible with existing engines. The “B” in GF-B means the oil is only to be used in recent engine designs that require completely new viscosity/weight oils such as 0W-16. Tom Taylor, RockAuto.com

[Grumpy Bear]

3 hours ago, diyer2 said:

GDI / Direct Injection in part descriptions and Info page These new oils, higher fuel injection pressures, intake manifold port injection coupled with GDI, etc. help solve these problems on older engines and prevent them on newer engines. GDI engine owners may be able to help the most by simply changing their vehicles' motor oil frequently and always using the correct oil. Instead of waiting for the longest, light-duty, oil change interval (often 7,000+ miles/11,000+ km), change the oil closer to the severe-duty interval (often 3,000 miles/5,000 km). You can check to see if your specific vehicle's engine uses GDI by looking at the “Info” pages and part descriptions for the engine's Fuel Injectors found under “Fuel & Air” in the RockAuto.com catalog. Find the correct engine Oil for your vehicle under “Engine.” Oil is also listed by viscosity/weight under the “Tools & Universal Parts” tab. Note: The “A” in GF-6A means the oil is a viscosity/weight compatible with existing engines. The “B” in GF-B means the oil is only to be used in recent engine designs that require completely new viscosity/weight oils such as 0W-16. Tom Taylor, RockAuto.com

Would it be rude to say, "I told you so"? 

Same thing GM said about ring collapse in motors with low tension oil rings

Forever oil my ***