How cold is your AC?

[truckguy82]

So my 2014 AC went bad about 2 years ago as they all do, had the dealer make the repairs.

 

Recently on a 97 degree day I was parked outside in the sun doing some work, and had the AC set on auto to 70. Even though I was sitting for about 30 minutes, the fan just ran on full blast the entire time and it never seemed to get comfortable inside.

 

I don’t remember the AC ever having trouble keeping up regardless of the temp outside. Just curious if your guys trucks can handle that no problem. It doesn’t seem that cold anymore and I suspect there is a pinhole leak. But I guess it could also be all in my head.

Edited September 25, 2020 by truckguy82

[James Dink]

Im in AZ and my ac is freezing cold and stays that way. It isnt humid here though 

[B R A D]

I think if you are wishing to feel the artic chill you need to put your air on "Low" instead 70 whatever degrees.

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[truckguy82]

3 minutes ago, B R A D said:

I think if you are wishing to feel the artic chill you need to put your air on "Low" instead 70 whatever degrees.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

Yeah but shouldn’t the cabin eventually get to 70 degrees and kick the fans down regardless?

 

fan was running at full tilt for 30 minutes

[truckguy82]

4 minutes ago, James ****** said:

Im in AZ and my ac is freezing cold and stays that way. It isnt humid here though 

Gotcha so I have a problem.

 

hmmm do I diy recharge or take it to the dealer?

 

 

[LDM]

1 hour ago, truckguy82 said:

Gotcha so I have a problem.

 

hmmm do I diy recharge or take it to the dealer?

 

 

I didn't have any issues with my 2015 the 2 years I had her.  My 2018 has only been through 1 summer so far and no issues there either.

 

What is the temperature of the air coming out of the vents?  It should be about 30-35 F cooler than the ambient temp when you have it on full fan with recirc turned on.

 

If you aren't getting that air temp out of the vents, you probably have an issue with your AC.  If you want to DIY, you really need to get a good set of gauges to be able to properly troubleshoot your AC system, one that has both Low and High.  Those Low gauges that come with a can of 134a really doesn't tell you anything without knowing what the high side is at in comparison to ambient temperature.  If you aren't comfortable with that, I would recommend taking it to a shop that specializes in AC systems.  Your 2014 still has 134a so you shouldn't have an issue find one that can work with your system in your truck.  I don't recommend the dealer as they are overpriced, unless you have some extended warranty and don't have to pay their ridiculous markups.

[RichardG]

FYI, my 2018 has R-1234yf. I'm not sure the year it switched.; be sure to check your manual/engine bay for listing. 

 

On a side note, I've noticed my 2018 (with the newer refrigerant) doesn't seem to cool nearly as fast as my R-134a vehicles. Can't remember the comparison to R12 but that's beside the point. My 2005 silverado (with the r-134a) cools down faster than my 2018 with r-1234yf. I'm not here to bash new technology or say I don't care about having a clean environment I'm just pointing out my anecdotal evidence. Someone with more and current HVAC experience can chime in on that. As mentioned, you'd need a set of gauges. I wouldn't generally recommend just adding it until the whole system is evacuated though. If you're unfamiliar with these kinds of procedures, paying a dealer/mechanic is probably worth the money to avoid the headache.

 

Edit: I see LDM mentioned you still have R-134a for 2014s. Well that's a plus I'd say. You can buy 35 lbs of that for cheap if you do it yourself. If I were you, I'd just take it in to a mechanic and avoid messing with it.

Edited September 25, 2020 by RichardG

[mookdoc6]

Had 85 Chevy Citation "Deuce-Deuce"  R12 baby....after your knuckles couldn't move and the dash pieces turned to Peanut Brittle it was time to turn it down from "Meat Locker" to "crisper" on the vertical slide!

 

Yeah, subsequently everything since than has gotten CHITTY, and Chittier!  Welcome to Liberal run society's! 

Edited September 25, 2020 by mookdoc6

[LDM]

29 minutes ago, RichardG said:

FYI, my 2018 has R-1234yf. I'm not sure the year it switched.; be sure to check your manual/engine bay for listing. 

 

On a side note, I've noticed my 2018 (with the newer refrigerant) doesn't seem to cool nearly as fast as my R-134a vehicles. Can't remember the comparison to R12 but that's beside the point. My 2005 silverado (with the r-134a) cools down faster than my 2018 with r-1234yf. I'm not here to bash new technology or say I don't care about having a clean environment I'm just pointing out my anecdotal evidence. Someone with more and current HVAC experience can chime in on that. As mentioned, you'd need a set of gauges. I wouldn't generally recommend just adding it until the whole system is evacuated though. If you're unfamiliar with these kinds of procedures, paying a dealer/mechanic is probably worth the money to avoid the headache.

 

Edit: I see LDM mentioned you still have R-134a for 2014s. Well that's a plus I'd say. You can buy 35 lbs of that for cheap if you do it yourself. If I were you, I'd just take it in to a mechanic and avoid messing with it.

Yeah my 2018 is 1234yf as well, I believe the switch on the GM trucks was made in 17.  But its not been a hard transition so all the vehicles and manufacturers are different.  Unlike back when R12 was phased out and all vehicles had to be done by 95, but eventually everything will be 1234yf and 134a will end up like R12.  Then I'm sure they will find some problem with 1234yf and come up with an even more expensive thing to use.  But as more vehicles use the new 1234yf, the prices will come down just like they did with 134a.

[newdude]

18 hours ago, LDM said:

Yeah my 2018 is 1234yf as well, I believe the switch on the GM trucks was made in 17.  But its not been a hard transition so all the vehicles and manufacturers are different.  Unlike back when R12 was phased out and all vehicles had to be done by 95, but eventually everything will be 1234yf and 134a will end up like R12.  Then I'm sure they will find some problem with 1234yf and come up with an even more expensive thing to use.  But as more vehicles use the new 1234yf, the prices will come down just like they did with 134a.

 

I hope so, GM retail on R1234yf is $118/lb.  R134a is $13/lb.  We are lucky to get 5 vehicles charged per tank of R1234yf.

Edited September 26, 2020 by newdude

[RichardG]

1 hour ago, newdude said:

 

I hope so, GM retail on R1234yf is $1175, so $118/lb.  R134a is $13/lb.  We are lucky to get 5 vehicles charged per tank of R1234yf.

1) I didn't realize I had the new stuff until this thread and I popped my hood. 2) Wow that is very expensive! I hope my system lasts quite a long time. My 2005 impala (bought in January 2008) never needed a charge/never had a leak even until I got rid of it in early 2020 because someone hit and run in my parking lot (enough damage to the front end to not justify saving a 15 yo 250k mile car - sold and replaced with my current 2005 silverado) and it worked very well even in Texas heat and humidity.

 

@LDM Yep no doubt.

Edited September 25, 2020 by RichardG

[truckguy82]

So if I take it to the dealer, are they going to swap the fluid out with the new stuff? I’d rather not pay for that stuff.

[NCPGMC]

I would do some more "testing" before spending money on refrigerant. Other than putting some gauges on it, try putting yourself in the same scenario of idling in the the sun but bump it down to "LOW." I guess if it were me I would have turned the temp down while sitting to get it cooler in the cab. I usually keep mine around 70 or so most time but if I find myself sitting in the sun I drop it down for cooler air. Stick an instant read thermometer into the vent with it running and see what the temp is coming out of the vents.

[LDM]

12 hours ago, truckguy82 said:

So if I take it to the dealer, are they going to swap the fluid out with the new stuff? I’d rather not pay for that stuff.

No, they will not put 1234yf into a 134a system.  You need to determine what the issue is with the system, not just try recharging it.  AC systems are sealed systems and do not require maintenance unless there is a failure.  If you have a leak that caused your system to be low or out of refrigerant, you need to get the leak fixed, not just charge the system.

[Cheverado]

I changed my evaporator on a 92° day. After charging it I was getting 56° air coming out of the vents. Even with high humidity mine cools my cabin down with no problem. Gets to low speed in auto all the time.