Jump to content
  • Sign Up

Has anyone successfully added the qt6 power up and down to their Silverado custom trail boss


Recommended Posts

i am doing this within next week.  i have rst with power down gate.  i am going to try QT6 i have all parts, just need time.  you need new torque rod, new right side hinge gateside, new right side hinge body side, module, harness, left latch, right latch and motor.  I found some parts at nordstroms and some on lookupgmparts.com I will do a write up if it works.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Rally6.2RST said:

i installed everything today.  didnt work.  there is clicking from module when i press handle button but nothing else happens.  i will play with it more.

Ok let us know thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

in closed position, if i hit handle button it beeps.  i think the qt6 tailgate is supposed to beep in down position. right now i think in up position it thinks it is down.  maybe i need to take out motor and spin motor 90 degrees?

i have succesfully added memory seats without programming so i was hopefull this would work too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

right now tailgate will drop smoothly with push of handle button.  I think I have a bad right side latch. the latch doesnt lock correctly.   I ordered a new one and am waiting for it to arrive.  I think sensors in lock are causing module to limit function.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I got everything working for QT6 like factory.

 

To upgrade from at QT5 (originally I had version with one lock actuator there is a QT5 version with 2 lock actuators)

You need new torque rod 84536703 ($20),  new right hinge gate side and body side 23388858 ($30) and 23388847($30),  lock regulator right 84533175 ($65), lock regulator left 84533174 ($65),  module 84652297 ($100 got mine used for $40 a new one would probably require programming),  harness 84682842 ($75 I got a used one for $40), switch for dash 84482867 ($15), motor 84490334 ($200 got mine used for $100)

 

Before you remove torx bolts on right side body hinge you need to remove the right side taillight and remove the 15mm bolt holding the soft open spring.

 

You may have to dremel a plastic key tab on male fakra connector for camera wire to allow it to plug in at body harness

 

You may have to drill out some holes in the mounting plate on bottom of tailgate for actuator 

 

With all of these items installed you will have up/down use of interior switch and exterior switch but not key fob.

 

To get key fob to work you can do this.  There are probably better ways.

I was able to get key fob to work I removed the green and yellow/black wire and plug from my old harness QT5 harness and added them to my QT6 harness to power the old QT5 actuator (these wires come from BCM).  I turned my old actuator into a switch by sodering a wire to the actuator cam and sodered a wire to the latch bump  I ran these wires to exterior switch so when I activate fob the actuator spins and connects the circuits and complete exterior switch circuit.

 

 

 

         
 

20201121_085753.jpg

20201121_075206.jpg

20201121_081016.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

I too have followed what Rally6.2RST has done and have gotten the QT6 Tailgate working almost like factory, the only difference is the key fob just requires a double tap to bring it up and/or down rather than the press and hold like factory to bring it back up.

 

I also did not use P/N: 84652297 for the tailgate module, I instead used P/N: 84651736. I originally ordered the 84652297 but did not think it would require programming (it does). I then found this tailgate module (84651736) that looked the same and had the same number of pins and the same placement of pins. I ordered this used part not knowing if it was gonna work or not. I received the part this morning and it worked.

 

I did use Rally6.2RST's method of the tailgate control signal for the key fob by using the old harness pins (as seen in the pictures below) However instead of using the old actuator as a sort of diy solenoid switch I just used a regular relay and soldered the wires directly to the new harness. I didn't want to completely tear apart both harnesses and redo them into one, but I also didn't want to just solder two wires and let them be exposed throughout, so I taped and zip tied both harnesses together all the way through and only used the two pins I would need for the old actuator/ new relay signal. and kept the other wires tucked incase of future mods I have those wires already running through the old harness.

 

1300509160_image_50432513(1).thumb.JPG.a0f5a05f6c8733b9d89ce721186e99e8.JPG

 

image_50367745.thumb.JPG.b84dd318841272ba77d042ab3863ee1f.JPG

 

image_50401281.thumb.JPG.626844ef6989a52a640466ab0f3c3001.JPG

 

image_50445057.thumb.JPG.61764b65c94d2047f8ae97bb7f669b97.JPG

 

image_50418945.thumb.JPG.5e775cb65951b08b4afc667ecaec8280.JPG

 

 

 

 

image_50417409.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

what are specs on relay?  where did you get yours?  I know nothing about them.  I want to do the relay way instead of using old actuator.  what i did was kinda ghetto but i had to work with my limit knowledge and was really trying to get fob to work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.