2015 Silverado Z71 LT 4WD w/ 6 Speed - 100k Service - Never Had Transmission Service

[tnyrdrgz]

I've searched pretty much endlessly for some insight into this, and haven't found any good input outside of a lot of arguing.

 

Thought I'd see what you fine folks may recommend here.

 

Have a 2015 with the 6 speed transmission.  Just hit 100k.  I am the second owner (got at 23k) and to my knowledge has never had a transmission service, diffs, really anything outside of normal oil changes and filter changes.

 

My question is this - what is the current recommend procedure for servicing here (both of transmission and anything else that might be recommended)?  Do I do the exchange + filter, or do I do the full flush the dealership is recommending me?  From what I've read, the diff fluid is an easy switch so I can do that.  I don't rag this truck, don't tow, sometimes have stuff in the bed.  Nearly 100% highway miles.

 

Roughly 2300 hours on engine.  Transmission stays at 190-192F.  Don't have any mechanical issues here, and really nothing outside of a condenser and evap temp censor replacement last year.

 

What else is recommended here?  I'm a big dumb idiot and just haven't taken into account the additional 97000 service plan, as I've always heard never to mess with transmission fluid.  I want to make sure I get as much as I can out of this truck.

 

I appreciate any feedback/help/advice you may have.  Also don't mind a little roasting as I'm sure it's warranted.

Edited September 17, 2020 by tnyrdrgz

[kstruckcountry]

I would avoid the transmission flush.

I have done trans filter and fluid, diffs ans transfer case in my 2006 and it's made it to 220k so far. Transmission had to be rebuilt recently, but the transmission is full of wear parts, so that's inevitable.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[rav3]

1 hour ago, tnyrdrgz said:

I've searched pretty much endlessly for some insight into this, and haven't found any good input outside of a lot of arguing.

 

Thought I'd see what you fine folks may recommend here.

 

Have a 2015 with the 6 speed transmission.  Just hit 100k.  I am the second owner (got at 23k) and to my knowledge has never had a transmission service, diffs, really anything outside of normal oil changes and filter changes.

 

My question is this - what is the current recommend procedure for servicing here (both of transmission and anything else that might be recommended)?  Do I do the exchange + filter, or do I do the full flush the dealership is recommending me?  From what I've read, the diff fluid is an easy switch so I can do that.  I don't rag this truck, don't tow, sometimes have stuff in the bed.  Nearly 100% highway miles.

 

Roughly 2300 hours on engine.  Transmission stays at 190-192F.  Don't have any mechanical issues here, and really nothing outside of a condenser and evap temp censor replacement last year.

 

What else is recommended here?  I'm a big dumb idiot and just haven't taken into account the additional 97000 service plan, as I've always heard never to mess with transmission fluid.  I want to make sure I get as much as I can out of this truck.

 

I appreciate any feedback/help/advice you may have.  Also don't mind a little roasting as I'm sure it's warranted.

Lots of opinions will be voiced, as all have different thoughts. I'd do a drain & fill with new filter on the transmission. Also, drain & fill on front, rear differentials & transfer case. I'd also do a 'bleed your brake fluid".

[tnyrdrgz]

13 minutes ago, rav3 said:

Lots of opinions will be voiced, as all have different thoughts. I'd do a drain & fill with new filter on the transmission. Also, drain & fill on front, rear differentials & transfer case. I'd also do a 'bleed your brake fluid".

Complete drain and fill, or the drop the pan and top off with 6-7 quarts method?

[kstruckcountry]

Complete drain and fill, or the drop the pan and top off with 6-7 quarts method?

As long as it hasn't been overheated, a partial refill should be fine. I did mine every 30-40k miles.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[rav3]

1 minute ago, tnyrdrgz said:

Complete drain and fill, or the drop the pan and top off with 6-7 quarts method?

If it were me, again, just my opinion, I'd suck out the 5 qts out the dip stick tube, leaving the OE filter in place, fill with new Dexron VI ATF & run that for 500-1000 miles, then do a pan off drain with new filter & fluid. I don't particularly like a "flush", but that's me. There are some that will do a flush. The filter only catches the "big stuff" & the full synthetic Dexron ATF is pretty good stuff. I've done my BMW X3 with GM 6 speed (France) @ 130k miles & to be honest, the filter & fluid looked pretty good. It's my understanding that the pan is a PIA to get off due to the exhaust pipe. Several good videos on Youtube have DIY hacks on how to pull the pipe down enough to slide the pan out. I do it the easy way, suck it out the dip stick & refill to keep the fluid fresh. It also pulls out the partials that are suspended in the fluid & giving a "refresh" to the fluid. I also add a bottle of LubeGard Platinum. Again, just my procedure.

[tnyrdrgz]

4 minutes ago, rav3 said:

If it were me, again, just my opinion, I'd suck out the 5 qts out the dip stick tube, leaving the OE filter in place, fill with new Dexron VI ATF & run that for 500-1000 miles, then do a pan off drain with new filter & fluid. I don't particularly like a "flush", but that's me. There are some that will do a flush. The filter only catches the "big stuff" & the full synthetic Dexron ATF is pretty good stuff. I've done my BMW X3 with GM 6 speed (France) @ 130k miles & to be honest, the filter & fluid looked pretty good. It's my understanding that the pan is a PIA to get off due to the exhaust pipe. Several good videos on Youtube have DIY hacks on how to pull the pipe down enough to slide the pan out. I do it the easy way, suck it out the dip stick & refill to keep the fluid fresh. It also pulls out the partials that are suspended in the fluid & giving a "refresh" to the fluid. I also add a bottle of LubeGard Platinum. Again, just my procedure.

Can you explain the thought process behind this method?  Not questioning, just want to understand better.  I'm rather new to the idea of this as I'm sure you can tell, so it's all beneficial to form my own opinion.

 

Thank you for the help you've already provided!

[rav3]

25 minutes ago, tnyrdrgz said:

Can you explain the thought process behind this method?  Not questioning, just want to understand better.  I'm rather new to the idea of this as I'm sure you can tell, so it's all beneficial to form my own opinion.

 

Thank you for the help you've already provided!

Now you asking a lot as I don't know that my opinion is shared by others & it will take a long write-up to explain. 1st off, I'm old school. A retired (plastic tooling) eng. and have been wrenching on cars all my life, so I'm opinionated.

Lot's of people feel a "flush" per say, may dislodge debris in the transmission & get stuck somewhere where it'll mess up the transmission. So, I would rather play it safe & not do a flush. Old bimmer DYIer owners have been doing the drain & fill process for years, so I have followed suite. I feel refreshing the fluid is easier on the tranny & me.

I read sometime back that the transmission filter will only catch 40-50 micron particles, unlike an oil filter that can go down to 5 microns, so it only filters out big stuff. The longer it's used, it starts catching smaller particles. That's why I leave the filter. As long as fluid can flow through it, it's fine. All the metal particles on the internal magnets aren't going anywhere & the clutch material on the bottom of the pan are stuck there due to surface tension. They aren't going anywhere either. I dissected a OE transmission filter on one of my X3's with 132k & it looked almost brand new inside. The filter media is course and will only stop larger metal particles and they aren't going anywhere either cause there stuck in the filter.

The newer Dexron VI fluid is MUCH better than the older versions, with approx. 100% improvements in oxidation, antifoaming and heat degrading. However, it is a thinner fluid (lower viscosity) It just last longer. With that in mind, I do a 5 qt. replacement about every 10k miles by simply sucking it out the dip stick tube. Takes all of 30 mins & will usually do it while doing an oil change. Do some research on LUBEGARD Platinum and then decide on whether it's any good or not for you. 

FYI, I bought my '17 Silverado 5.3l 6 speed with 30k on it back in Feb. I did the front & rear Diff., transfer case & (3x) drain & fill on the transmission. That gives me a bench mark on fluids from when I bought it, not knowing how it was abused or used while on lease. I also changed the brake fluid, which looked terrible in the reservoir. BTW, brake fluid is hygroscopic. ( absorbs moisture) It needs to be replaced every 2 years. Hope this helps & waiting for the "flaming" on me to begin.

[tnyrdrgz]

14 minutes ago, rav3 said:

Now you asking a lot as I don't know that my opinion is shared by others & it will take a long write-up to explain. 1st off, I'm old school. A retired (plastic tooling) eng. and have been wrenching on cars all my life, so I'm opinionated.

Lot's of people feel a "flush" per say, may dislodge debris in the transmission & get stuck somewhere where it'll mess up the transmission. So, I would rather play it safe & not do a flush. Old bimmer DYIer owners have been doing the drain & fill process for years, so I have followed suite. I feel refreshing the fluid is easier on the tranny & me.

I read sometime back that the transmission filter will only catch 40-50 micron particles, unlike an oil filter that can go down to 5 microns, so it only filters out big stuff. The longer it's used, it starts catching smaller particles. That's why I leave the filter. As long as fluid can flow through it, it's fine. All the metal particles on the internal magnets aren't going anywhere & the clutch material on the bottom of the pan are stuck there due to surface tension. They aren't going anywhere either. I dissected a OE transmission filter on one of my X3's with 132k & it looked almost brand new inside. The filter media is course and will only stop larger metal particles and they aren't going anywhere either cause there stuck in the filter.

The newer Dexron VI fluid is MUCH better than the older versions, with approx. 100% improvements in oxidation, antifoaming and heat degrading. However, it is a thinner fluid (lower viscosity) It just last longer. With that in mind, I do a 5 qt. replacement about every 10k miles by simply sucking it out the dip stick tube. Takes all of 30 mins & will usually do it while doing an oil change. Do some research on LUBEGARD Platinum and then decide on whether it's any good or not for you. 

FYI, I bought my '17 Silverado 5.3l 6 speed with 30k on it back in Feb. I did the front & rear Diff., transfer case & (3x) drain & fill on the transmission. That gives me a bench mark on fluids from when I bought it, not knowing how it was abused or used while on lease. I also changed the brake fluid, which looked terrible in the reservoir. BTW, brake fluid is hygroscopic. ( absorbs moisture) It needs to be replaced every 2 years. Hope this helps & waiting for the "flaming" on me to begin.

I appreciate the detailed response!  Are there any resources that you recommend that may detail your process of the fluid service?  I'd be curious to look into further.

 

The way I understand the flush method explained by the dealer, is they force inject an extreme amount of fluid through the transmission to clean it out, and once clean just top off and let 'er rip.  With what you're saying, this can cause things to dislodge and potentially cause issues.

 

With your method, it's not the force method, just a simple drain all the fluid you can, then top off to spec and it's good to go - leaving the filter as it essentially increases in efficiency with age, and leaving behind any residual fluid/buildup/whatever.  I can see the benefits and negatives to both sides I suppose.

 

With regard to the break fluid, from what I've read, though not first hand experienced, is it's best to fuss with the fluid when changing breaks and rotors.  Can you shed some light on this?

 

As with everything in life, opinions are like booty holes - everybody's gottem.  And everyone thinks they're right.  Thing about a booty hole is it's smack dab in the center of my long back, not leaning one way or the other, just doing the best it can with the brown stuff it's given.

[rav3]

2 hours ago, tnyrdrgz said:

I appreciate the detailed response!  Are there any resources that you recommend that may detail your process of the fluid service?  I'd be curious to look into further.

 

The way I understand the flush method explained by the dealer, is they force inject an extreme amount of fluid through the transmission to clean it out, and once clean just top off and let 'er rip.  With what you're saying, this can cause things to dislodge and potentially cause issues.

 

With your method, it's not the force method, just a simple drain all the fluid you can, then top off to spec and it's good to go - leaving the filter as it essentially increases in efficiency with age, and leaving behind any residual fluid/buildup/whatever.  I can see the benefits and negatives to both sides I suppose.

 

With regard to the break fluid, from what I've read, though not first hand experienced, is it's best to fuss with the fluid when changing breaks and rotors.  Can you shed some light on this?

 

As with everything in life, opinions are like booty holes - everybody's gottem.  And everyone thinks they're right.  Thing about a booty hole is it's smack dab in the center of my long back, not leaning one way or the other, just doing the best it can with the brown stuff it's given.

Check out this video on brake fluid change by Pat Goss....

https://youtu.be/6tQtyxbac4M

 

[Colossus]

I'm a firm believer in flushing as long as the transmission fluid is not burnt.  When flushed PROPERLY it is SAFE and works.  VERY well.  My shop uses this.  As do many other shops.

FYI BG invented this safe method.  No over pressurizing of the system.  no damage. 

Watch:

 

 

 

Older machine, but same idea.  The vehicle's tranny pump does most of the work, pumping in new while pumping out the old.  No over-pressurizing. 

 

 

 

Why I like flushing vs drain and fill?  Flushing gets 99% of the old stuff out where as drain and fill just keeps contaminating old with new.  What a waste.  Only time I would do drain and fill is if the tranny has been abused and the fluid smells burnt.  But an abused tranny with burnt fluid is going to be on the verge of failure as-is so what does it hurt to flush i sometimes wonder.  Also, most vehicles now use screens instead of filters.  The flush method cleans the screen in the process, so no need to replace the screen.

Edited September 18, 2020 by Colossus

[Eddie 70]

Here is how I do my trans fluid. I dropped the pan and changed the filter the first time at 65k. The fluid that came out looked like hot chocolate. Ever since then I have been changing 1 gallon of fluid through the dipstick tube using a hand operated vacuum pump every 15k miles. The fluid looks great now and like mentioned above only takes a few minutes to do. I've attached a few pics so you can get an idea. The first tubing that I stick down in the trans dipstick tube is bought from Home Depot, I think it's PTFE tubing. Same as the tubing for your refrigerator but bigger diameter to match the rubber tubing of the hand operated vacuum pump.

 

Edited September 18, 2020 by Eddie 70
To add fluid change interval

[KARNUT]

I do the dipstick pull and refill, I don’t do the flush method. Everyone I know who keeps their GMs over 200K miles goes that way. That’s why I did. I’m new to the high mileage club. I’m usually done at 100K miles or close to it. I don’t like the new GM stuff so I’m trying this out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[awright2009]

Just drive it until the transmission gives out (usually around 180-220k for older trucks) flushing the transmission may cause it to fail sooner actually from what I've heard. There are some friction bands that usually give out similar to a clutch

Edited October 4, 2020 by awright2009

[Grumpy Bear]

On 9/18/2020 at 12:25 AM, Colossus said:

I'm a firm believer in flushing as long as the transmission fluid is not burnt. 

 

 

I watched this video in it's entirety and have a question. When he shows the inside of the machine he explains that the fluid from the transmission enters the bottom of the tank and that forces the new fluid out the top back to the transmission. Okay then the question.

 

Inside that tank, is there a physical/mechanical separation/barrier between the two fluids? 

 

That tank looks the same size as the box of fluid he added.

Edited October 4, 2020 by Grumpy Bear