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What are ya'll doing for oil changes?


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56 minutes ago, OnTheReel said:

Purolator does NOT have a good name either. I would say it’s as bad as Fram or worse. Cuz in Fram’s case it’s the cheap filters that supposedly have problems. In Tear-olator’s case, the P1 and the Boss, which are not inexpensive, have had a ton of problems coming apart internally. Problems the company hasn’t even acknowledged. Good luck.

Got anything to back up those claims on Purolator? First I've heard of it and also my own experience of doing oil changes for over 300K+ miles on my vehicles (trucks and minivan). That's not a lot relatively speaking, but until they crap out on me then I'll continue using them. With the Fram, it was an Advanced Auto special that caused me to buy it and it was the first Fram I had bought since high school (30+ years ago). It failed the first time I used it. (Bad) Luck of the draw? Perhaps.

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1 hour ago, BossTaco2020 said:

Got anything to back up those claims on Purolator? First I've heard of it and also my own experience of doing oil changes for over 300K+ miles on my vehicles (trucks and minivan). That's not a lot relatively speaking, but until they crap out on me then I'll continue using them. With the Fram, it was an Advanced Auto special that caused me to buy it and it was the first Fram I had bought since high school (30+ years ago). It failed the first time I used it. (Bad) Luck of the draw? Perhaps.


 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/u/0/d/1oVZjE_Cmf59Bs5nSF9p4sMBhJaJ3X3Dey7u1asadJ4o/htmlview#

 

There’s also a ton of pics if you search “Purolator tearing” in google. Spreadsheet in link hasn’t been updated in awhile, mainly because everyone on the oil forums have stopped using them. Not everyone cuts their filters open either of course, but when you can find a 100+ failures from people who do, that’s enough for me.
 

And as far as them being better now, who knows. As I said, when a company doesn’t even acknowledge a problem, it’s hard to believe they would solve it. You’re paying a premium for something that’s actually worse than a window screen if it fails. Too many good alternatives for the same or less money.

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19 minutes ago, OnTheReel said:

 


 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/u/0/d/1oVZjE_Cmf59Bs5nSF9p4sMBhJaJ3X3Dey7u1asadJ4o/htmlview#

 

There’s also a ton of pics if you search “Purolator tearing” in google. Spreadsheet in link hasn’t been updated in awhile, mainly because everyone on the oil forums have stopped using them. Not everyone cuts their filters open either of course, but when you can find a 100+ failures from people who do, that’s enough for me.
 

And as far as them being better now, who knows. As I said, when a company doesn’t even acknowledge a problem, it’s hard to believe they would solve it. You’re paying a premium for something that’s actually worse than a window screen if it fails. Too many good alternatives for the same or less money.

Hmmm, very interesting. Thanks for that, will definitely consider it when buying my next filter.

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3 hours ago, MaverickZ71 said:

Hey, Grump, remember the old roll-of-toilet-paper-in-the-can oil filter trick in the late 60's/early 70's?  Wonder if they argued Charmin vs other brands back then?  :D  I remember we had a '67 396 that ran Quaker State 20/20W oil.  Haven't seen that particular viscosity for about 45 years.  

Farmer we knew ran his Masey Ferguson tractors on 10W. For decades. Quite as a mouse. Yea, I remember toilet paper filters. Frantz and someone else still does them. As bypass systems now. 20/20W. I'd kill for a case now. Kidding. Internet police and all. How about Harely R75 and R105 oils? 

3 hours ago, MaverickZ71 said:

Some years back when AC Delco came out with their "improved" (NOT) e-core filters I did a lot of research and narrowed it down to Wix (or NAPA--built by Wix) or Purolator for our vehicles.  There were too many reviews at the time that said Purolator had just sold and was having trouble with the pleats on their filter media--lots of pleats on one side, not so many on the other, with bad crimps and sometimes resulting holes in the filter media.  So I went with Wix.  Hopefully, Purolator has gotten their poop in a group since.  

You know me Mavrick I cut everything apart for a look. There is nothing about a Purolator that even hits the pause button for me. The big thing is they filter like crazy. These numbers are at a beta of 75 or 98.7 efficient at the follow micron levels. 

 

Purolator Pure One PL22500 > 5 micron

Royal Purple @ 18/19 micron

AMSOIL Ea017 20 micron.

WIX/NAPA @ 22 micron

AC Delco PF63E @ 23/24 micron.

Mobil 1 M1-212A @ 25 micron

 

The AMSOIL filter as a reference can clean oil to an ISO 4406 of 14/13/11. That's cleaner than new oil. As small as those steps seem the difference in engine life is 3 X higher with a Purolator One than a Mobil 1. 

 

Send a sample of new oil from the lot you are using and another 1 K miles later for the ISO 4406. Use some oil that is really dirty right out of the bottle like Mobil 1 or Castrol Edge. It will make your decision easier. ? It's how the information on the AMSOIL filter was obtained and compared to the filters Beta rating. 

 

 

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28 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

You know me Mavrick I cut everything apart for a look. There is nothing about a Purolator that even hits the pause button for me. The big thing is they filter like crazy. These numbers are at a beta of 75 or 98.7 efficient at the follow micron levels. 

 

 

Purolator Pure One PL22500 > 5 micron

Royal Purple @ 18/19 micron

AMSOIL Ea017 20 micron.

WIX/NAPA @ 22 micron

AC Delco PF63E @ 23/24 micron.

Mobil 1 M1-212A @ 25 micron

 

 

 

 

I’ve never seen anything suggesting the Pure One is ~99% efficient at 5 micron, where’d you get those specs? And why don’t they advertise that everywhere if true? Their own site shows 99% @ 20 microns as a generality.

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From Purolator.  Nope, not advertised. Sometimes just asking nice works fine.

Before you say hog wash. Have your own ISO 4406 run. You wouldn't believe my numbers anyway. 

I'm starting to understand why people are so unwilling to share information.

 

 

 

 

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I asked them nicely, this was their response. 


62D14F5F-093D-4D73-B8E9-B19905331368.thumb.jpeg.a72f528feef04971e6068050abb9096a.jpeg


 

At any rate, I’m not the one making the sensational, unverified filtration claims. So instead of asking me to run my own test, you could just post what they sent you in their 4548-12? Seems like that would clear this right up...

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IMHO, anything capturing 20 microns at 99% is good enough for me, I used to use a mixture of either Amsoil, Wix or Napa but both Napa and Wix required lots of over tightening due to leaking and both were never consistent on the oil pressure gauge. I’m very satisfied with Amsoil filter, excellent oil pressure readings and zero leaks.e39311e3ca69dd8efc42210f8e802c52.jpg

 

 

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After buying my Avalanche and changing all fluids myself, doing an oil change was a no brainer. After looking at the detailed maintenance log the last owner kept. The oil change was recently done. Looking father into the logs I noticed an unexpected trend. Oil changes every 3K with every other including a filter. Very old school. I felt comfortable to let it ride. The miles accumulated quickly with a trip added in. Now it’s time. It’s too damn hot, so off to the dealer. I have history here so I have no fear. Synthetic oil change 53$ good deal. Now the surprise. My at rest oil pressure shows at half on the dash, hot. A full click better by a quarter. My at speed is a quarter better than half. My only explanation is he must have used conventional oil, at a strange weight. Probably old school thinking. Amazing.


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3 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

IMHO, anything capturing 20 microns at 99% is good enough for me, I used to use a mixture of either Amsoil, Wix or Napa but both Napa and Wix required lots of over tightening due to leaking and both were never consistent on the oil pressure gauge. I’m very satisfied with Amsoil filter, excellent oil pressure readings and zero leaks.e39311e3ca69dd8efc42210f8e802c52.jpg

 

 

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I will agree with 100% on the Wix I have pointed blame directly on the gasket...Sorry, Wix it sucks overtightening and seeping is prone from these filters.  As for the Media inside It's good BUT the can plus thread surface sucks.....been kinda done with WIX for many a moons...…..

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4 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

Ie39311e3ca69dd8efc42210f8e802c52.jpg

 

 

 

A great filter. My only issue with it is the $20 price tag. I buy my Purolator BOSS at Farm and Fleet for @ $10 

My off and on again issue with Purolator is getting one off the shelf. Ditto Royal Purple.

4 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

IMHO, anything capturing 20 microns at 99% is good enough for me,

What an odd thing to say from the guy who preaches "use the best you can afford" and hammers on never using anything that  'just meets the specs'.  You know how to read this I'm guessing. This is from the GM study...

 

xxx.png.be4ce9f949544b4927b5dab8728a70d9.png

 

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What an odd thing to say from the guy who preaches "use the best you can afford" and hammers on never using anything that  'just meets the specs'.  You know how to read this I'm guessing. This is from the GM study...
 

xxx.png.be4ce9f949544b4927b5dab8728a70d9.png

 

In these forums, what’s the point lol. I buy the best, this way I can blame it on the vehicles if I ever have an issue. I don’t shop around anymore, know what works and stick to it. Spending a few extra dollars for maintenance is nothing compared to dealing with repairs. Besides, truck still runs like a beast and that’s all I need to know that those few extra dollars per OCI is working


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Mobile 1 and wix filters. At around 5000 miles I change the filter and add a quart then run it another 2000 miles or so. I have done that on my last 5 vehicles with no problems. I trust my own experience over anything I read that says it should be done more frequently. 

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