“Action Required - Open Then Close Driver Window”

2018Denali · May 25, 2022

On 5/23/2022 at 10:03 AM, vdc said:

I am having this problem now. Been to the dealership twice; Goodyear 5 times. I reset the window by letting it roll down hold the button for 10 seconds; roll up hold for 10 seconds. It went away for 3 weeks but now it is back.

We solved the 6 to 9 months ago. It turned out to be an ever so slightly loose battery terminal connection . Tightening it down Took care of it

Jean Allen · May 29, 2022

Hi Y'all - For about a week now, I've been having this problem with the "open-close window message" in my 2015 Silverado High Country. At first I would just run the window down, then back up. but that didn't 'fix' anything. The message was there every time I started the truck. Then my "authority issue" reared it's ugly head and I just flipped it the middle finger salute and dismissed it. To get even with me, the window button doesn't respond. I can't open it and close it if I wanted to. I replaced the fuse, which was pointless. Of course it wouldn't be anything that simple. I have to take it to the dealer Tues., the 31st to handle the airbag recall. Any suggestions I might make when I take it in? Thanx TONS for any help. Jean

Jean Allen · June 14, 2022

This happened in my 2015 Chev Silverado just last month. I also got the message that my drivers side door was open.

When it was all said and done they had replaced drivers window regulator and bcm

reprogrammed bcm and added 2nd key

cleared the codes. It was in the shop for 3 days.

They said they had to have 2 keys to reprogram the thing and, of course, I couldn't find my other key. I'm sure glad I had my wits about me when I bought the truck. I figured it was nothing but a mass of electronics on wheels so I got the extended warranty on electrical. Instead of the $958, I only had to pay for the added key at about $100. Hope this info is useful.

Jean

KEEP ON TRUCKIN ON

Sgt Rod · October 20, 2022

On 7/30/2020 at 6:14 PM, steve76t said:

Anyone get the “Action Required - Open Then Close Driver Window” error on your dash? I posted about this error and a few others that I was getting a few months ago. Dealership looked at the truck, had it for two days, and ended up replacing the battery. Fixed the other errors I was getting but I still get the “Action Required - Open Then Close Driver Window” error about once every 7 to 10 days. Truck is at the dealership again, but they haven't found the problem yet.

Anyone else have this problem & did it get fixed? If so, what was your fix???

Just had it happened to me a few minutes ago. I was turning into my driveway, and engine died. I stopped, put it in park and turned the key and nothing happened. No power whatsoever. No dash lights, nothing.. I walked in the house, and a few minutes later went back out, put the key in again, and turned it on, dash lights came on, engine fired up. There was a message, "Action Required" It said open and then close, drivers side window. I did as the message said. The "action required" went away!! Anybody have any idea, what that's about. My truck is a 2015 GMC Sierra Slt All Terrain.

steve76t · October 21, 2022

17 hours ago, Sgt Rod said:

Just had it happened to me a few minutes ago. I was turning into my driveway, and engine died. I stopped, put it in park and turned the key and nothing happened. No power whatsoever. No dash lights, nothing.. I walked in the house, and a few minutes later went back out, put the key in again, and turned it on, dash lights came on, engine fired up. There was a message, "Action Required" It said open and then close, drivers side window. I did as the message said. The "action required" went away!! Anybody have any idea, what that's about. My truck is a 2015 GMC Sierra Slt All Terrain.

This is a BCM reset function. When your truck looses the connection with the battery you'll get this message on the dash. Sometimes its just because the battery was just disconnected or changed. Other times it could be some sort of other connection such as short or loose ground.

This issue I originally had was the connection in driver side door was getting wet due to poor sealing. That's been corrected for quite a while now & haven't had any issues since. Your issue may be different as my truck never died on me while driving.

Pokee Mann · March 27, 2023

Thanks all for sharing. I just had this happen to my 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 65kmiles. It happened 3x in the last month. The biggest problem is the truck just dies while driving. There is no warning , accept a slight failure in the power steering then nothing , rolling along at whatever the speed limit is with no power steering etc. A bit dangerous. At least the wheel doesn't lock up. The truck starts right back up. Some electrical components are reset such as clock. The dash states that 2 keys have been paired, and then the action required window up and down message.

Looks like the issue could be anything from reading this thread and elsewhere. I take it to the shop next week.

detectivevaughn29 · April 4, 2023

I have this same issue on my 2014 LTZ. Add to the error message that my truck will sometimes die when turning at low speeds. When this happens i sometimes get other messages about parking sensers or other sensor problems. And my doors lock and unlock several times in rapid succession. Any thoughts on this mess.

Dmb812 · April 28, 2023

@carnau

2022 Yukon - a couple days ago I turned it off and everything shut off in the Yukon which isn’t normal. The radio and whatnot is supposed to stay on until the door opens or a couple minutes lapses. I quickly started it back up and got the open driver window -close driver window message. The next day I drive it and make a couple stops without issue. I go to work and come out after work to leave and it unlocks and lights up but will not start and then nothing turns on. Opened the hood, pulled the fuse panel cover off, closed it and actuators start going off so I know there is power. A do the same thing a couple more times and it finally starts, same message open/close windows.
next morning I walk out, car lights up but will not start. It doesn’t recognize the key “key not found” even though the key was in it. It will start via remote start or GMC app. Try spare key same thing, key not found. Solution was to disconnect negative terminal, wait 10 minutes or so and reconnect and everything works. What in the world is going on?

a few months ago I believe I had a slow battery drain and the Yukon would randomly die. Dealer tested circuits and what not for days and found nothing. I took the Yukon back and a couple weeks later did the same thing. Found a YouTube technician who said to have the dealer reflash it. Took it took the dealer and they did and Yukon seemed fine for at least 2 months until the above issue started. I’m wondering if the two issues are connected…

Edited April 28, 2023 by Dmb812

MSP_666 CCTV_AccessControl · June 22, 2023

I'm having this exact problem in my new S10, here in Brazil. The car is brand new. I give up to bring to the dealership. Here in Brazil they don't solve any problem, and the quality of service is terrible. I don't think is a loose or corroted ground wire, becouse the car is brand new. What a piece of crap, I will never buy gm again.

mendy · September 15, 2023

Did you have a no start issue when this occurred?

Welder77 · October 12, 2023

On 11/2/2020 at 1:56 PM, steve76t said:

Sorry, it's been a little while since I've gotten back to this thread, but my issues continue at this time. The new BCM did not fix my issues. Been to the dealership a few times since for them to continue to guess what's going on. Last time was last week. They told me the GM asked them to check a relay or connection in the passenger side door. However, after I got the truck back that's not what the service tech wrote in his description of work completed. Looks like he just "Cleared and Relearned Window Stop in BCM", checked all grounds under hood, and "load tested battery at 360 amps for 15 seconds. Passed at 10.4 volts".

Picked up my truck on Wednesday, ended up with the window message on my dash Friday AM & again Sunday afternoon. I'm trying to get ahold of my service rep again, he's a pain to get ahold of, and will give him a copy of your response to this. Lets see if it gets me anywhere...

On 8/2/2020 at 4:17 PM, carnau said:

Ok, So part of this is exactly the problem. It's just very general which doesn't help you and that's no fault to @rusty503. He is exactly right.

I have run into this many of times on these vehicles since i am the electrical specialist at our dealership . Unfortunately I can't see the vehicle to test it so I am not going to say it is not a body control module failure. Because it absolutely could be. Do I think it is? No. But again I can't test it personally so I will not say they are definitely wrong. I will explain to you though why I believe it is wrong and what I think you should look for in case the BCM does not fix it. And please, If the BCM fixes it let us know. I really enjoy these types of problems and am interested.

The BCM uses voltage to keep it's memory (this is why it could be a bad BCM) When it falls below a certain voltage the Capacitors in the BCM discharge and this sends it into a relearn mode (telling you to roll the windows up and down, ect..) This is why I don't think the BCM is the problem.

I believe you have a voltage drop problem on one of your battery cables. This is actually an easy test and don't take long. Do a loaded voltage drop test across your battery cables. You need less than 0.1 volt across all of them even though 0.2 volts is acceptable.

If your voltage drop is higher on any of those cables or across the battery block (which is where I normally find the problem. Either a lug that's barely loose or a crack in the plate) replace it. The reason it's coming up with this is because during cranking the voltage drop is higher than normal. If you have (let's say) 2 volts of drop during cranking that means on a perfect battery your BCM would be seeing 10.8 volts and discharge the capacitors causing your vehicle to go into relearn mode.

Here is the catch. Your vehicle isn't doing it every day (which makes me think it is the battery block again..loose lug or crack) so you will not see the full drop. But anything higher than 0.20 needs to be replaced. This will fix your problem IF the BCM doens't fix it. Because again... I can't test the BCM myself. I just have my doubts about it... But it is possible.

If you need me to explain anything else, how to do the test or ect... Just quote me and ask so I get the message on my phone. If not i check here every few days. The Ad's are killing me and I don't really like to come here much anymore.

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but could you possibly walk me through how to test the Battery distribution Engine Compartment fuse you are referring too? I’ve tried to find videos on it but no luck. Thanks for any help!

tonywannabe · October 30, 2023

Good day to all. I have a 2018 Silverado LT with 70K miles.

3 days ago, I went out to my truck in the morning, jumped in, put the key in the ignition and noticed that none of the dash lights came on. I didn't realize I really had a problem until I tried to start the truck and nothing happened- not even the click that's associated with a dead battery. I pulled over my wife's Buick and put the cables on my truck and instantly, everything popped to life and was ready to start. I realized it was not a weak batter or alternator, partly because I just put in a new battery less than a year ago. I drove the truck the rest of the day without issue, shutting it off for a couple hours at a time each stop.

Yesterday I tried to start the truck in the morning before driving to church and the same issue occurred. This time, I tried to wiggle the posts/connectors on the battery and they were solidly tightened. I tried to wiggle the key in the ignition, pulled it out and replaced it several times, and checked other various connections under the hood. While sitting in the drivers seat with the door open and searching my phone for videos related to this issue, my dash suddenly just came back to life. The message center showed the Chevrolet logo and the door dinger began to ding as I had left the key in the ignition. I started the truck right up and we drove to church. About 90 minutes after shutting off, we came out and found the condition returned. This time, I just sat in the truck with the key in the ignition and waited before deciding what to do. Within a minute, the mileage appeared by itself on the message center and I tried the key again, firing it right up.

Each time, the message to roll down the drivers window and roll it up again appeared.

Today I have started to the truck twice, waiting for about 10 seconds before trying to start it, and it has worked, but both times it said to roll down the window and up again.

The last few days it has turned noticeably colder here in Wisconsin and the day before I first had the issue, I washed the truck before parking it, but I do often (5-7 washes a month).

This weekend I will investigate more closely the wiring harness in the drivers door, but upon initial inspection, I have found nothing to report- everything looks clean, intact and in place properly.

Angel Araiza · January 4

I just got this message on my 2021 Colorado ZR2 V6. I had disconnected my battery to install multiple lights and a winch. After reading this post I learned how to hold the window switch down properly to clear the message. I have not had any other symptoms and I hope that this does not persist. I've disconnected my battery a year ago to install ditch lights and I did not have this issue then. I will check back in if there are any additional messages/issues.

Happy New Year!

MikeBMW · January 4

16 minutes ago, Angel Araiza said:

I just got this message on my 2021 Colorado ZR2 V6. I had disconnected my battery to install multiple lights and a winch. After reading this post I learned how to hold the window switch down properly to clear the message. I have not had any other symptoms and I hope that this does not persist. I've disconnected my battery a year ago to install ditch lights and I did not have this issue then. I will check back in if there are any additional messages/issues.

I've had that from time to time after installing in-channel window deflectors.
Nothing to worry about, just roll the window down and back up - no biggie.
Also, this is a Silverado forum from 2014-2018 (2019 LD) and not a Colorado 2021 forum, but I hope we've helped nonetheless.

tonywannabe · January 17

Hello again. A few months later and I'm still having issues. Last couple of weeks it's been getting worse. Last 4 days have been bitterly cold, but this started earlier in the last year so I don't believe that's connected, just makes it even less fun to troubleshoot and diagnose without a heated garage!

Today I stopped at a stop sign and for a split second, my whole dash "glitched". The message center said service stabilitrak for about one second and everything came back on. As I tried to gently accelerate from the stop sign (very icy!) the dash glitched out again and then was dead. No lights of any kind. Tried to set the flashers on to let others know I was dead in the water and there was nothing. Popped the hood and checked the battery distribution block where I've had loose connectors in the past, but they were all tight. However, one of the connectors was so hot that it singed my thumb print and made me remove my fingers fast. Everything seemed tight ( the block itself kind of loose as it "floats" just above the battery itself) and somehow, whatever I touched allowed power to flow freely again. The truck started right up and I drove it home. It again stated that I had to roll the window down and up to clear the code and the next 3 miles were without incident.

To me, it now seems as though this is a loose or bad connection issue due to having no power, even to the hazard lights. However, the incredibly hot post on the distribution block makes me think there is a short. I have looked several times during the summer and a few times this winter, including today, and see or smell nothing of a short. The post that was high temp is by itself on the passenger side of the battery. I believe it says 175 amp. The wires are encased in the black mesh wire guard material and go down toward the fenderwell where they are attached by a plastic clip to keep them from moving. everything seems intact and not melted. I hate the idea of trying to trace these wires back to the dash or wherever they go cuz damn its cold out there right now, but I think thats my next course of action. Any thoughts out there about other (simpler?) things to check?

Thanks to all- Tonywannabe