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The Best Lift Kits For Late Model GM's? (3" to 6")


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I'm considering lifting my 2003 GMC 2500HD 4x4 about 4" max. A little less is acceptable, but absolutely no more than 4". Aftermarket suspension systems are new to me, so don't really know all the questions to ask aftermarket suppliers. I have never installed a full blown lift kit before, and I'm trying to learn some of the mechanical pro's and con's of the various systems out there.

 

As far as the Pro's and Con's, I am aware of the obvious, fundamental things like changing the center of gravity and related handling effects. What I'd like to know is....Are there real concerns regarding drive shaft and/or steering shaft angle changes? If yes, do the aftermarket suspension manufactures resolve these problems? What other mechanical snafu's do I need to be aware of?

 

I need someone to respond who has installed several lift kits, or who is very familiar with the various systems on the market.

 

Who makes the best? (Rancho, RCD, CST, TrailMaster, FabTech, Tuff Country, anyone else??)Why?

 

The purpose for the lift is for hunting reasons. I want the best kit money can buy (within reason of course, max. price would be $3.5 to $4 grand). The kit I purchase will not be for show. Strength, durability and function all weight equal in priority.

 

Thank you in advance for your help.

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The purpose for the lift is for hunting reasons. I want the best kit money can buy (within reason of course, max. price would be $3.5 to $4 grand). The kit I purchase will not be for show. Strength, durability and function all weight equal in priority.

The key thing to remember here you're going taller for larger the tire purposes and this will worsen your situation if you get stuck.A 4" suspension lift would do nice for a somewhat larger tire but keep in mind,you'll be off roading with a 6000+ lb truck and it's not going to do everything that you've seen smaller vehicles go through due to the weight difference.A viable alternative would be to save a little extra money and get a four wheeler,you aren't very far off of the price of a decent one at the $4000 range as it is and you won't be risking damage and tear on your truck by going this route.

 

All of the kits you have mentioned are very adequate but you may also want to look into BDS.They have a no BS lifetime warranty and are built very well plus are competitively priced.

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I'm no expert, but I had my 2500 Avalanche lifted 6 months ago by High Dust 4x4 here in Norfolk, VA. I had asked about a 4" lift, but luckily was talked out of it. They did a 6" RCD lift with 305/70/16 Pro Comp All Terrain tires on 10" Ultra Motor Sports wheels.

 

I tow a 8500# camper with it and the ride to me is no different than when it was stock...very comfortable.

 

I was told by my dealer that the alignment of the front drive shaft is no longer straight and could cause problems sometime....I have driven this truck to TN, TX, GA, and have not experienced any problems with anything related to the lift.

 

I highly recommend it. By the way it cost me for everthing right at $4000.00.

 

Mike :shakehead:

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I did both my 6" Superlift and 3" body lift myself. I got everything for $3,600 including a new front driveshaft, 16x10 Eagle 589s and 36x14.50 Super Swamper TSL Radials. I just bought a 2004 Kodiak 450 a few months ago to take hunting and help diminish the wear and tear I'm putting on my truck :thumbs:

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Hey Chevythunder and Bigblock, got any pics of your trucks? I also have an RCD kit and it is nice!!! I went hunting a few weeks back and took my truck through some really gnarly trails, and it went smooooth! I would recommend the RCD kit to anyone who wants a reliable, great quality 5-6" lift kit. I am planning on getting a 3" BL next summer and put on some either 35 or 36 inch tires on there.

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You generally go longer to ensure the driveshaft is securely mounted to the differential and transfer case.When you lift,you increase the distance over stock and a stock driveshaft doesn't protrude into the transfer case as far as a longer aftermarket will.

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You generally go longer to ensure the driveshaft is securely mounted to the differential and transfer case.When you lift,you increase the distance over stock and a stock driveshaft doesn't protrude into the transfer case as far as a longer aftermarket will.

What he said is correct, but the main reason for needing a new front driveshaft on the NBS trucks w/ some suspension lifts, is because of the steep angle the driveshaft is now in. The new driveshaft is a dual cardan shaft (2 joints) and allows for the shaft to clear the exhaust pipes (on most NBS trucks). If you could even get your old driveshaft in after the lift, these NBS trucks w/ the Auto-trac transfer case will vibrate when you drive if you don't replace the front shaft.

 

Here's a couple pics of my rig:

 

71666903mTDWFq_ph.jpg

 

89868089suanJW_ph.jpg

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