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What oil and filter do you run?


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Amsoil Signature 0W-20 and Amsoil oil filter every 5000 miles.

Do you feel the signature series is overkill since you change at 5k miles. I use the XL and still think the OE is fine for 5k miles interval.
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13 minutes ago, Bob2C said:


Do you feel the signature series is overkill since you change at 5k miles. I use the XL and still think the OE is fine for 5k miles interval.

It is probably overkill, but I have never skimped on my oil and/or frequency.  The few extra dollars is worth it for my piece of mind.

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7 hours ago, Bob2C said:


Do you feel the signature series is overkill since you change at 5k miles. I use the XL and still think the OE is fine for 5k miles interval.

 

After watching what happened to the wife's GMC 2.4's rings by a 100 K while using Group III Syn on 5 K OCI's, I doubt I can be convinced that 5 K is over kill with the Group IV/V fluids. They just run them too hot anymore. Especially since GM went crawfishing on 7.5K OCI's as not soon enough.  

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15 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

That is odd. I didn't spend all day on it but I can't find an SDS newer that 2015 or of the half dozen I did find one that stated the manufacture on it.  What section is it in? 

Section 1: Identification, very first page on the copy I have.  Don't remember where it was found but remember it was obscure website.

Engine Oil SDS Sheet - 88865743 - 10-9147.pdf

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8 hours ago, swathdiver said:

Section 1: Identification, very first page on the copy I have.  Don't remember where it was found but remember it was obscure website.

Engine Oil SDS Sheet - 88865743 - 10-9147.pdf 77.49 kB · 6 downloads

Thanks for the file!

Well that is an interesting document regardless of supplier.

 

Look'y see here: Under section 3 

 

Chemical Name: Distillates, petroleum, hydrotreated heavy paraffinic 

CASRN 64742-54-7

Concentration 85%

 

So it's a hydrotreated paraffin based mineral oil but the viscosity range stated in Section 9 is 6.9 to 12.3 cSt 2 100 C

 

What's crazy about that is the possible range of viscosity for a Group III Synthetic is only 4 - 8 cSt @ 100 C (Or use to be when they were required to be hydroprocessed) 

 

Why? Because a Group III would have been hydrocracked. Large molecules broken and hydrogen added to saturate a fully as possible. 

 

This doc says hydrotreated which is just hydrogen addition. (If done together it's called hydro-processing). 

 

Next the CASRN number is the nail in the coffin. It verifies it has only been hydrotreated. Look at the carbon chain length. The give away. The chain length determines the viscosity range. 

You will find it in the link to doc below

 

https://chem.nlm.nih.gov/chemidplus/rn/64742-54-7

 

Lastly; If this material were hydrocracked the aniline point would not allow enough solvent power for a 15% additive load. Group III materials are quite non polar. 

 

Looks like someone is passing off un-cracked bases as FULL SYNTHETIC with absolution from GM and the SAE (who never likes to get their hands dirty)

 

The bar just keeps getting lower and lower. The distinction now seems to be between hydrotreated and solvent treated as the basis for calling something a FULL SYNTHETIC. 

 

Well if one is doing it, they all are. Explains why the 2.4 varnished the rings. 

 

 

 

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I’ve always felt that sticking with the regular oil(whatever the manufacturer recommends) is more than adequate.

Like for real everything around the engine while fail a lot sooner than the engine internals.

When an engine finally packs it in around 300,000-400,000 km I would rather be in something newer anyways.

 

Overspending on expensive oil and changing it when it’s only at 50% of its life is a waste of money in my opinion.

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10 minutes ago, madconcept said:

I’ve always felt that sticking with the regular oil(whatever the manufacturer recommends) is more than adequate.

Like for real everything around the engine while fail a lot sooner than the engine internals.

When an engine finally packs it in around 300,000-400,000 km I would rather be in something newer anyways.

 

Overspending on expensive oil and changing it when it’s only at 50% of its life is a waste of money in my opinion.

If you maintain a vehicle in a manor that has the 'everything around the motor' failing by 300K - 400K km then you are absolutely correct. I would expect the vast majority of drivers are in that camp. That's just not an opinion. That is a method. 

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I’ve always felt that sticking with the regular oil(whatever the manufacturer recommends) is more than adequate.

Like for real everything around the engine while fail a lot sooner than the engine internals.

When an engine finally packs it in around 300,000-400,000 km I would rather be in something newer anyways.

 

Overspending on expensive oil and changing it when it’s only at 50% of its life is a waste of money in my opinion.

 

When you run a fleet of vehicles and your lively hood depends on them, you’ll be singing a different tune. People that run cheap oil are just cheap. Manufacturers recommend oil that will, by their standards, meet and not exceed recommended oci’s. Today’s motors are very high tech with the tightest tolerances ever recorded in automobile history, same high tech oil is required to keep these engines protected. All oils are not equal, they have different protective breakdowns.

 

Everyone knows I run nothing but Amsoil Signature Series 100% Synthetic and not that misleading “Full Synthetic” junk. I have a lifted and tuned 6.2 truck with larger tires, love to drive fast and have never ever had any engine breakdowns. All the vehicles that were used as delivery vehicles at my shop repair company ran on Amsoil and not once ever had any engine breakdowns with most of these trucks exceeding 150k-200k miles.

 

Yes, Amsoil is a couple dollars higher than mythical full synthetics but will protect at least four times better that the highest rated full synthetic and my fleet were living proof of that.

 

As a matter of fact, I bought trucks for my employees and allowed them to do their own oil changes as per our agreement, each and everyone of those had engine issues by the time they hit 60k miles (highway miles as sales team) but non of the fleet vehicles with much higher mileage and these were work horses too.

 

Everyone can look for excuses all they want to not spend a couple extra dollars per quart for superior engine protection but in the end, you’ll never hear of an unhappy Amsoil user.

 

Good luck and God Bless [emoji631][emoji631][emoji631][emoji631][emoji631][emoji631]

 

 

Sent from Above

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Do you feel the signature series is overkill since you change at 5k miles. I use the XL and still think the OE is fine for 5k miles interval.

IMO, it all depends on your driving conditions. Heat kills oil, stress from towing, hauling, excessive idling and hills or mountains breaks down quickly. I run the SS series, change every 4-5K (mostly 4K) along with Amsoil filter and can honestly say my engine sounds quieter than engines running on full synthetic.
It’s a piece of mind and have friends of mine that switched to Amsoil only later to thank me as they noticed the difference as well.

Question: two identical vehicles for sale, both same model and mileage, one running on full synthetic and the other on Amsoil SS Series, which one would you trust to buy?


Sent from Above
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IMO, it all depends on your driving conditions. Heat kills oil, stress from towing, hauling, excessive idling and hills or mountains breaks down quickly. I run the SS series, change every 4-5K (mostly 4K) along with Amsoil filter and can honestly say my engine sounds quieter than engines running on full synthetic.
It’s a piece of mind and have friends of mine that switched to Amsoil only later to thank me as they noticed the difference as well.

Question: two identical vehicles for sale, both same model and mileage, one running on full synthetic and the other on Amsoil SS Series, which one would you trust to buy?


Sent from Above

I hear where your coming from. I would chose the AMSOIL vehicle no doubt. I’m a firm believer now that I have switched my vehicle completely over. It’s all signature except for engine. I have another 2 gallons of XL for another change and then decide on the signature. I don’t do any towing, driving in mountains but 90% of my driving is short trips. Which is probably just as bad. Heck it’s a struggle to get the trans up to 185 on my short trips. My engine did quiet down when I switched even using the XL so I’m happy.


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I hear where your coming from. I would chose the AMSOIL vehicle no doubt. I’m a firm believer now that I have switched my vehicle completely over. It’s all signature except for engine. I have another 2 gallons of XL for another change and then decide on the signature. I don’t do any towing, driving in mountains but 90% of my driving is short trips. Which is probably just as bad. Heck it’s a struggle to get the trans up to 185 on my short trips. My engine did quiet down when I switched even using the XL so I’m happy.


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You did good brother, good job!


Sent from Above
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I only use the best oil. It's Organic and First Cold Pressed. 


Kirkland_Organic_Extra_Virgin_Olive_Oil__48114.1475984966.386.513.jpg?c=2

 

 

??

 

In all seriousness.....

Walmart Supertech 0W-20 (used to use pennzoil platinum for years but switched over to Supertech last year for all vehicles). I installed a Supertech filter last change, but the cold PSI seems higher than normal. So switching back to AC Delco next change.

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6 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Thanks for the file!

Well that is an interesting document regardless of supplier.

 

Look'y see here: Under section 3...

 

Thanks for the analysis Marty.  A lot of this is Greek to me but after reading it a few times is starting to make sense.  I did not find anything on that link that showed chain length or maybe didn't click in the right places but did find those numbers that matched those from the sheet. 

 

So how would you compare this oil to plain old Mobil One?

 

My observations are that this ACDelco oil makes the engine quieter at start up and running and slightly more fuel efficient too.  After two oil changes and 12K miles an oil sample showed better wear numbers and oil performance compared with the old regular M1.

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Thanks for the analysis Marty.  A lot of this is Greek to me but after reading it a few times is starting to make sense.  I did not find anything on that link that showed chain length or maybe didn't click in the right places but did find those numbers that matched those from the sheet. 
 
So how would you compare this oil to plain old Mobil One?
 
My observations are that this ACDelco oil makes the engine quieter at start up and running and slightly more fuel efficient too.  After two oil changes and 12K miles an oil sample showed better wear numbers and oil performance compared with the old regular M1.

Independent testing shows Amsoil Signature Series is 4X more protective than Mobil1’s most protective “Annual Protection” oil. Some stores are selling Mobil1 Annual Protection $3 dollars higher than Amsoil SS.


Sent from Above
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