6.2 oil weight for hotter climates? Still ow20?

[Jav_eee]

I promised I searched as much as I could and didn’t see anything on this.

 

What oil weight is everyone living in hotter climates using on their 6.2? I’m about to change the oil but I’m in Deep South Texas where our summer days usually hit 110.

 

 

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[steve841]

I used it in my 19 6.2L with no issues whatsoever ...

[bshort]

We are in the 100's for the summer and I still use the 0/20.  Even when towing heavy weights.  

[txab]

No issues with 0w-20

 

Search results of the site:

 

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/search/?&q=0w-20&type=forums_topic&search_and_or=or&sortby=relevancy

 

https://www.google.com/search?lr=&hl=en&as_qdr=all&sxsrf=ALeKk01IcQAYWXr3n9XkZRKKDDPaAlKDOw%3A1588020555031&ei=S0WnXuSuAbXl9AP1yYKQAg&q=0w-20+oil+site%3Awww.gm-trucks.com&oq=0w-20+oil+site%3Awww.gm-trucks.com&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQDDoECAAQR1C2P1jlR2D_W2gAcAJ4AIABP4gBfZIBATKYAQCgAQGqAQdnd3Mtd2l6&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwikgNDIvYnpAhW1Mn0KHfWkACIQ4dUDCAs

 

 

Edited April 27, 2020 by txab

[Jav_eee]

No issues with 0w-20
 
Search results of the site:
 
https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/search/?&q=0w-20&type=forums_topic&search_and_or=or&sortby=relevancy
 
https://www.google.com/search?lr=&hl=en&as_qdr=all&sxsrf=ALeKk01IcQAYWXr3n9XkZRKKDDPaAlKDOw%3A1588020555031&ei=S0WnXuSuAbXl9AP1yYKQAg&q=0w-20+oil+site%3Awww.gm-trucks.com&oq=0w-20+oil+site%3Awww.gm-trucks.com&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQDDoECAAQR1C2P1jlR2D_W2gAcAJ4AIABP4gBfZIBATKYAQCgAQGqAQdnd3Mtd2l6&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwikgNDIvYnpAhW1Mn0KHfWkACIQ4dUDCAs
 
 

Thanks, I read most of those even though they were from several years back and this current engine, from what I understand, is different.


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[Jav_eee]

We are in the 100's for the summer and I still use the 0/20.  Even when towing heavy weights.  

I don’t tow often but I do slow speed, extended idling, and occasional towing in extreme (to me hah) heat.

I’ll use 0w20 and hope I have the luck you did.


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[Thomcat]

.02

The viscosity is printed in the manual and on the cap and differs from engine to engine for a reason. Considering that the thermostat and oil coolers/high volume finned oil pans keeps the engine temp at max temperature for most efficient and clean operation, if designed for 20 weight when warmed up, should be operating independent of external environmental temperatures. Oil volumes in the 5.3l were upped from 6 qt. to 8 qt in more recent models - expanded to provide a suitable for heat transfer?.....done to prolong time between changes?

 

No need to change viscosities,  0W-20 should work just fine. Can't go lower than 0W anyway even in the unlikely instance where the temperature is so cold that it sucks out so much heat you can't reach operating temperature. And if the temperature is so hot that the cooling system cannot lower temperature to design specs a weight higher than design spec 20 oil would not be of much use when metal expansion begins to lock up moving parts, thicker oil may even reduce lubrication being unable to accurately lubricate tight tolerances.

 

When it comes to environmental temperatures I'd be more concerned about the effects of too low or too high temps on all the crapo plastic parts more than the weight of oil in the engine and drivetrain. Had a cold snap below 40F the other day when I wanted to install the lighted bowtie and had to pull the plastic grille, including those slim wings under the headlights. No way I was going to yank to release clips at that temperature or the crap snaps or even the wings might crack........waited until it hit 60F and grille unsnapped and none of the clips were damaged. Same goes for the plastic surround frame in my Avalanche's rear window glass.....no problems at lower temps but too much heat leaving the grid on to defog in warmer weather generated enough heat to cracked the first two frames replaced under warranty. (Latter might even be the cause of window frame cracking causing leaks in '19-'20s?)

 

[Jav_eee]

.02
The viscosity is printed in the manual and on the cap and differs from engine to engine for a reason. Considering that the thermostat and oil coolers/high volume finned oil pans keeps the engine temp at max temperature for most efficient and clean operation, if designed for 20 weight when warmed up, should be operating independent of external environmental temperatures. Oil volumes in the 5.3l were upped from 6 qt. to 8 qt in more recent models - expanded to provide a suitable for heat transfer?.....done to prolong time between changes?
 
No need to change viscosities,  0W-20 should work just fine. Can't go lower than 0W anyway even in the unlikely instance where the temperature is so cold that it sucks out so much heat you can't reach operating temperature. And if the temperature is so hot that the cooling system cannot lower temperature to design specs a weight higher than design spec 20 oil would not be of much use when metal expansion begins to lock up moving parts, thicker oil may even reduce lubrication being unable to accurately lubricate tight tolerances.
 
When it comes to environmental temperatures I'd be more concerned about the effects of too low or too high temps on all the crapo plastic parts more than the weight of oil in the engine and drivetrain. Had a cold snap below 40F the other day when I wanted to install the lighted bowtie and had to pull the plastic grille, including those slim wings under the headlights. No way I was going to yank to release clips at that temperature or the crap snaps or even the wings might crack........waited until it hit 60F and grille unsnapped and none of the clips were damaged. Same goes for the plastic surround frame in my Avalanche's rear window glass.....no problems at lower temps but too much heat leaving the grid on to defog in warmer weather generated enough heat to cracked the first two frames replaced under warranty. (Latter might even be the cause of window frame cracking causing leaks in '19-'20s?)
 

Well I was thinking of going up to a 5w20 as I read it might be better for the DFM system. I’m coming off a 6.7 powerstroke so oil types and viscosities were a popular subject. Kinda odd to not see that here.

I agree on the plastics and you might be right about the rear window leaks. That’s why I’ve turned off the auto rear defroster. I’ll use it if I need it but I don’t want it turning on for nothing.


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[2018GMC]

Well I was thinking of going up to a 5w20 as I read it might be better for the DFM system. I’m coming off a 6.7 powerstroke so oil types and viscosities were a popular subject. Kinda odd to not see that here.

I agree on the plastics and you might be right about the rear window leaks. That’s why I’ve turned off the auto rear defroster. I’ll use it if I need it but I don’t want it turning on for nothing.


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I put mobil 1 full synthetic 5-20 in my 2018 6.2l. Coldest it gets here is -10 and can reach 115 if I travel 2 hrs. No issues.

[Thomcat]

1 minute ago, Jav_eee said:

 

Well I was thinking of going up to a 5w20 as I read it might be better for the DFM system. I’m coming off a 6.7 powerstroke so oil types and viscosities were a popular subject. Kinda odd to not see that here.

I agree on the plastics and you might be right about the rear window leaks. That’s why I’ve turned off the auto rear defroster. I’ll use it if I need it but I don’t want it turning on for nothing.


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0W is only for necessary for easy cold startup to assure that oil is instantly available at all tight tolerances and reduce load on the starter motor train. Additives and viscosity modifiers likely raise the spec of 0W to at least 5W within minutes and/or before the first 1000' of travel and at 20 before the engine hits operating temp.

 

And the only difference between the collapsible lifters in the older design AFM engine vs. a DFM engines which is the number in use; former uses them on 4 cylinders, latter uses them on 8.

[Jav_eee]

Ok I went with 0w20 rotella gas truck. Let’s see how it does...


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[AlaskaErik]

Just use what the owner's manual calls for. These engines are tested in all types of temperature ranges.  I use Mobil 1 0W-20, which is what the 6.2 calls for.  Same goes for the 5.3.  If you're really concerned, get Mobil 1 0W-20 Truck/SUV oil.  It's now Dexos certified.

[chadman]

In temperate environments you could use 5W-20 just fine.  I would not go to anything above 20W (as in 30W for example) as this can cause issues with VVT, Dfm, etc. 

[Jav_eee]

In temperate environments you could use 5W-20 just fine.  I would not go to anything above 20W (as in 30W for example) as this can cause issues with VVT, Dfm, etc. 

I decided for the warranty period I’ll use what they recommend.


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[Grumpy Bear]

 

     I own a 2006 Honda Civic. Sister bought new an I from her. This year the upper rear control arms would not allow a proper camber angle. They were too short, thus extreme negative camber. As it was not a 'safety' issue there was no recall however if you complained hard enough there was a service bulletin that would reimburse you for tires (one set) on a prorated basis and a set of new 'improved' control arms. Thing is, it had to be under warranty AND you had to use the OEM parts and replacement tires other wise you were out of luck as they say. To compensate there was some seriously messed up alignment settings to help counter the effects of negative camber. Extreme toe. Warranty was 100K except power train which was 60K. Control arms are not powertrain it seems. As it was the wife's car and money she insisted we stay with the plan to remain covered. Yea....about that.....

 

     Eating tires every 10-12K it went though seven sets. None were covered. I found out about the replacement arms from a friend. Second to last set around 80 K and they finally replace the control arms AFTER I complained and AFTER I got the news. IT WAS WORSE and ate two more sets before 100K. She bought a new car and I got the lemon. 

 

     First order of business was adjustable MOOG Problem Solver control arms and MY alignment specs. It now has almost 225K on her on two sets of tires. First set went 85K and this set looks new yet. 

 

What's my point?