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Control arm compatibility

tyler.frost92
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tyler.frost92 Enthusiast

tyler.frost92

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Are aluminum and stamped steel lower control arms interchangeable? Truck is a 2017, stock stamped steel. Have dirt king boxed uniball uppers and want something similar to match the lowers. Only thing I can find is from LSK, and they’re 1850 bucks.

 

So I figured stock aluminum lower arms would be better than the stamped junk with non-serviceable ball joints if they are in fact interchangeable.

 

 

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tyler.frost92 Enthusiast

tyler.frost92

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The frames are the same. So, yes. You can remove your stamped arms and put machined in.

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I’m talking about stock cast aluminum arms. I know the frame is the same, just not sure of the spindle and BJ taper.

Also if anyone knows of some beefy aftermarket ones that use bolt-in style ball joints or uniballs for a decent price I’m all ears.


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HeySkippyDog Senior Enthusiast

HeySkippyDog

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Well, try this out.

Go to Gmpartsdirect and check P/Ns for a spindle for a 2014, and then a 2016. If they're the same, you can assume the ball joint and other interfaces are the same.

As a mechanical engineer, it makes more sense to me that they'd JUST change how the control arms are made and leave the rest alone.

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tyler.frost92 Enthusiast

tyler.frost92

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Well, try this out.

Go to Gmpartsdirect and check P/Ns for a spindle for a 2014, and then a 2016. If they're the same, you can assume the ball joint and other interfaces are the same.

As a mechanical engineer, it makes more sense to me that they'd JUST change how the control arms are made and leave the rest alone.

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Thanks. I wasn’t sure exactly what years the cast aluminum arms came stock for sure. I didn’t know if there was any crossover in 14 with the cast steel arms. Similar to the crossover in 2016 with aluminum and stamped steel.


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HeySkippyDog Senior Enthusiast

HeySkippyDog

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Assuming the spindles are the same, which I'm nearly certain they are, you can interchange them. Even still, I would make sure that the sets matched L and R either way.

Also, why do you think you want bolted/riveted ball joints?

They aren't pressed into constant diameter bores. The bores in the control arms for the ball joint bodies have a taper, so the further they get pushed in there, the pressure increases. They aren't going anywhere once pressed in.

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tyler.frost92 Enthusiast

tyler.frost92

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Assuming the spindles are the same, which I'm nearly certain they are, you can interchange them. Even still, I would make sure that the sets matched L and R either way.

Also, why do you think you want bolted/riveted ball joints?

They aren't pressed into constant diameter bores. The bores in the control arms for the ball joint bodies have a taper, so the further they get pushed in there, the pressure increases. They aren't going anywhere once pressed in.

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If I’m going aftermarket I’d prefer uniball or bolt in style joints just for strength and ease of serviceability. Truck does see some off roading as well. I know pressed in balljoints aren’t gonna go anywhere, but that’s usually the case when you’re changing them as well lol.


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HeySkippyDog Senior Enthusiast

HeySkippyDog

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If I’m going aftermarket I’d prefer uniball or bolt in style joints just for strength and ease of serviceability. Truck does see some off roading as well. I know pressed in balljoints aren’t gonna go anywhere, but that’s usually the case when you’re changing them as well lol.


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I've drilled out plenty of rivets and replaced them with bolt-ons, but that is always one hell of a fight.

I'd prefer the modular approach to replacing the whole arm, bushings and all at the same time. Usually when you need joints, the control arm bushings are shot to hell too, so the arm still has to come out.

I know it's way better on the wheel hub, no more packing bearings and having races pressed in and out. Just unbolt and replace, and connect the speed sensor. Makes a 2 hour job into a 30 minute one.

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HeySkippyDog Senior Enthusiast

HeySkippyDog

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That’s why a lower arm with a uniball and replaceable Delrin bushings would be ideal for me lol.

 

 

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You're missing the point.

 

If you have to pull the arm to change the bushings, especially the lower, by then, the thru-hole for the sway bar is most likely egged out. That's been my experience on past trucks.

 

It makes far more sense to just replace the whole arm with bushings installed (they're in there super tight). The cost for the metal becomes a wash.

 

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tyler.frost92 Enthusiast

tyler.frost92

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You're missing the point. 
If you have to pull the arm to change the bushings, especially the lower, by then, the thru-hole for the sway bar is most likely egged out. That's been my experience on past trucks.
 
It makes far more sense to just replace the whole arm with bushings installed (they're in there super tight). The cost for the metal becomes a wash.
 
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I get the point you’re making, point I’m making is that the Delrin bushings will last a long time and not have to be replaced as often. Plus The cost of metal isn’t much of a wash when you just need to replace the joint, because then you’re factoring in an alignment when swapping out the whole arm.


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Juicifer21 New Member

Juicifer21

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The tapered ball joints on the cast aluminum and stamped steel are larger than the ball joints on the cast steel. You can buy adapter sleeves for the cast steel control arms ball joints to fit a cast aluminum/stamped steel truck’s knuckle (spindle) but it won’t work the other way around because the ball joints are bigger. The cast steel trucks have smaller holes on the knuckles for smaller ball joints. Though if you replace the large ball joint on a cast aluminum/stamped steel control arm with the smaller ones from the cast steel it will work if you’re trying to convert. So cast aluminum/stamped steel= big ball joint and big drilled tapered hole on knuckle, cast steel= small ball joints and holes.

Edited by Juicifer21
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