2011 Tahoe / LMG Vortec Engine - oil flush/engine cleaner additive ok?

[Nils81gy]

Hi there,

 

I bought a used 2011 Chevy Tahoe 4WD with 151k.

As soon the car is released and street legal in Germany, I do a full oil/fluid replacement incl. all filters + spark plugs and spark plug wires.

In regards to my engine oil change, this is my plan:

 

• 1st engine oil change

            I plan to use an oil sludge remover to "clean" the engine from inside. Its called Liqui Moly Oil Sludge Flush. 

            With the new engine oil, I plan to add Liqui Moly Hydraulic Lifter Additive .

 

• 2nd engine oil change (...when its due next time)

            I plan to use another engine cleaner called RAVENOL Professional Engine Cleaner to make sure that all debris

            are removed as much as possible.

            With the new engine oil, I plan to add an additive called TriboTEX Original

 

In regards to coolant change I want to use a coolant system cleaner  and  a radiator stop leakage which can be used preventively. 

 

I am also going to permanently disabling the AFM on software level done by a US car tuner.

 

I heard/ read that the Vortec 5.3L engine in those 3rd Gen Tahoes tends to build up oil sludge so I thought it might be a good idea for a good engine flush.  

Anything pro or contra? 

 

Any feedback is highly appreciated.

 

Please stay safe and healthy!

 

Niels

 

Edited April 14, 2020 by Nils81gy

[Colossus]

Eh, I'd just run some of this stuff.  https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/engine/bg-epr-engine-performance-restoration/

and this

https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/engine/bg-moa-extended-life/#bg-product-1

 

Many professional mechanics swear by this stuff and I've had good experiences with it too.  Don't get it off of Amazon as the stuff on Amazon is likely fake.  BG doesn't allow their products to be sold on Amazon. 

[Black02Silverado]

Sounds like you got all the bases covered. 

 

I would first pull the valve covers and see how bad it really is under there.  You might be good just going to a high quality synthetic and doing frequent oil changes for a while and let that clean it out over time.  It didn't get the build up, if any over night so you can't expect to clean it out quickly.

 

As for the 5.3's being sludge motors, it might be more on the lines because people didn't take care of them. 

[Nils81gy]

58 minutes ago, Black02Silverado said:

Sounds like you got all the bases covered. 

 

I would first pull the valve covers and see how bad it really is under there.  You might be good just going to a high quality synthetic and doing frequent oil changes for a while and let that clean it out over time.  It didn't get the build up, if any over night so you can't expect to clean it out quickly.

 

As for the 5.3's being sludge motors, it might be more on the lines because people didn't take care of them. 

Hi,

 

thanks a lot for the info. I told a friend of mine (also mechanics which is owns its own body shop) about my plan and he said "no, don't do engine clean, check the oil 1st."

He said if there is sludge built up we will see it when the oil drains and under the oil cap. He doesn't like engine /transmission flushes mentioning that could even be counterproductive causing oil leaks and maybe even more issues. You usually have sludge build up when you only drive short distances and are very lazy with car maintenance. But since the car is 9 1/2 years old and has 151k miles driven, he doesn't expect to see any sludge built up. He also said if I use high quality oil, the additives should be good enough to clean the engine on the long run. Since the car got regular oil changes for at least the last three years and at least one new spark plug (that information is based on Carfax and the previous owner), I assume it should be fine. 

The engine oil I buy directly from the manufacturer called Ravenol, a German company. The Oil is called RAVENOL DXG SAE 5W-30   https://www.ravenol.de/en/application-area/passenger-cars-1/ravenol-dxg-sae-5w-30/  and should be a high quality oil. I use Ravenol products in my 2007 Honda Odyssey since years at this was the 1st company in Europe/Germany that provided engine oil with the correct viscosity and specs for the Odyssey. I think there is no Amsoil in Germany. 

 

 

Edited April 15, 2020 by Nils81gy

[diyer2]

No flush.

Frequent oil and filter changes will clean it.

I have done this for years on my used vehicles.

2-  1 K mile oil and  filter changes first thing. This will tell if it's dirty inside by how dirty the oil gets in short mileage.

3 k mile changes.

[swathdiver]

On 4/14/2020 at 3:25 AM, Nils81gy said:

Hi there,

 

I bought a used 2011 Chevy Tahoe 4WD with 151k.

As soon the car is released and street legal in Germany, I do a full oil/fluid replacement incl. all filters + spark plugs and spark plug wires.

In regards to my engine oil change, this is my plan:

 

• 1st engine oil change

            I plan to use an oil sludge remover to "clean" the engine from inside. Its called Liqui Moly Oil Sludge Flush. 

            With the new engine oil, I plan to add Liqui Moly Hydraulic Lifter Additive .

Niels

 

Welcome Niels!

 

   One of the problems with sludger removers in these engines is that the loose sludge clogs up the AFM system and causes the solenoids and lifters to fail.  We see this all the time when guys buy a truck that was not cared for and they switch it over to synthetic oil and or use sludge removers.

 

If the engine was cared for, there won't be any sludge to remove.  Go slow, just do regular oil changes at first.

[09avalanche]

x2

[Nils81gy]

Hi,

 

We did 1st replacement of engine oil and engine filter. The oil smelled a bit like gasoline, probably because of the short distance drivings at the dealership and later at the shipping company, harbor, ... . We also replaced the front differential fluid and  all eight spark plug wires. The spark plugs looked evenly used but kinda on the worn out side. But not fouled, wet or burned and no deposit buildups.

Next week or the week after we will replace the other oils and fluids like transmission oil and filter, transfer case oil, rear diff oil, brake fluid and coolant. Also going to replace the A/C belt, belt tensioner, pulley and the serpentine belt (ordered kit ACDelco ACK060935HD). The engine squeaks a bit at cold start. Sounds a bit like a tensioner or pulley issue. The belt itself looks ok. But since I have no idea when those parts have been replaced last time, I just replace it. And so far I can see, it looks pretty easy to replace at that engine.

 

Anything to consider or to take care of when replacing the the belts and tensioner and pulley?

 

 

 

 

 

[dsr611]

24 minutes ago, Nils81gy said:

 

Anything to consider or to take care of when replacing the the belts and tensioner and pulley?

 

 

Just FYI, there is not a tensioner on the AC belt.  There is a trick to replacing it using a couple of zip-ties, tie-wraps, etc, breaker bar and socket.

 

 

[Nils81gy]

@dsr611 I have Gates 91030 Micro-V Stretch Fit Installation Tool. So based on the video the A/C Belt is installed the same way as on the L99 6.2L V8 engine? I have seen a A/C belt video from a 2007 Tahoe. But there was a belt tensioner. So they changed the design at the later models?

Edited April 30, 2020 by Nils81gy

[dsr611]

Yes...I don't know exactly what year they had the brilliant idea to omit the AC belt tensioner (want to say it was 09), but I know my '10 Sierra didn't have one.  I did mine just like the video above (I've even adapted the same technique on our industrial cooling fans at work and it works great)

[Nils81gy]

4 hours ago, dsr611 said:

Yes...I don't know exactly what year they had the brilliant idea to omit the AC belt tensioner (want to say it was 09), but I know my '10 Sierra didn't have one.  I did mine just like the video above (I've even adapted the same technique on our industrial cooling fans at work and it works great)

its kinda difficult to see how and what he exactly did, except seeing lots of zip-ties