Cooler thermostat question

tyler.frost92 · April 7, 2020

Anyone know of a cooler thermostat that is reliable? Also, can this be swapped without tuning. Not sure if there is a target ECT that won’t be met and cause issues. Tired of how hot this truck runs while towing my pop-up camper

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CamGTP · April 7, 2020

Speed Engineering makes a 180. I wouldn't go much cooler than that.

I floated around 170-180 degrees most of this winter here with my failing stock thermostat and it didn't set a code for too cold of coolant. With the 180 it should roam around 180-190 most of the time.

flyingfool · April 7, 2020

I run the Katec180 , no tuning needed... hasn't had an issue , or you can go with the LSA t-stat from GM 195 degrees and drill a 1/4" hole for extra bypass to drop temp lower

I ran a Jet 180 that failed open, that trips the cooling fans to run full blast, a 170 might also trip this failsafe condition, need to tune the t-stat to match the fans, the

Edited April 7, 2020 by flyingfool

Grumpy Bear · April 7, 2020

Speed Engineering, JET Performance, Lingenfelter and Summit. The seals will fail. Compare the photos between these and the factory and the Katech and you will see the difference you are looking for.

Katech has a drop in 174F stat with a factory like seal that is passing muster. The seal has been the issue for the aftermarket. These guys got it right.

https://store.katechengines.com/174-degree-gen-5-lt-thermostat-p729.aspx

There is a thermostat for the Camaro/Corvette that is a bit cooler. 195 F (Stock is 207F)

Personally I run a IPSCO that splices into the upper hose and uses a standard SBC/SBF 54 mm thermostat. I chose a Reisch Racing 170 F unit. Think it's made by Dayton Aus. Stant has offerings of 160 F, 180F, 195F and 205F. GM a 192 F.

https://www.ipsco.org/Custom Services/Remote thermostat housing custom.htm

https://www.reischeperformance.com/NB54data.html

I just finished this winter with the 170 F without issue. No tune required and everything works like it should. I've also run the 180 F in the this housing and liked it as well. If yours it's your daily driver and your area spends a good deal of time below 30 F the 180 F would be a better choice.

The Katech was not yet on the market when I bought my IPSCO but if it had been I expect I would have found the Katech Goldie Locks Perfect.

If you use an IPSCO housing and a Stant Super Stat you need to drill an .050 hole in the flange. The Reisch already has a 'jiggle pin'.

The 160 F would require some tuning. Popular with the forced induction crowd. 170 F and up will not require a tune.

I had some extra machining done on my IPSCO. (lower photo)

Edited April 7, 2020 by Grumpy Bear

davester · April 7, 2020

How exactly does hot water get to a thermostat that is in the middle of a tube that isn't flowing coolant? That's why the thermostat is installed in the engine block/water pump or nearby, so that the temperature sensitive side can be in the flow of coolant, so when the coolant heats up, the thermostat opens.

swathdiver · April 7, 2020

Hey Grumpy,

Do you think his transmission thermostat is contributing to the high coolant temperature? Seems to me he's hotter than expected towing a little popup on a 66 degree day.

Grumpy Bear · April 7, 2020

11 hours ago, davester said:

How exactly does hot water get to a thermostat that is in the middle of a tube that isn't flowing coolant? That's why the thermostat is installed in the engine block/water pump or nearby, so that the temperature sensitive side can be in the flow of coolant, so when the coolant heats up, the thermostat opens.

Hey Dave, That is what the .050" bleed hole is for. The housing already has a min flow bypass to keep the pump happy. I'm up to temp in like 5 - 10 minutes. If it really bugged a guy you could plug the min flow at the OEM housing, drill a reference port in the IPSCO flange and reroute the OEM hose to that location.

11 hours ago, swathdiver said:

Hey Grumpy,

Do you think his transmission thermostat is contributing to the high coolant temperature? Seems to me he's hotter than expected towing a little popup on a 66 degree day.

Hard to say without knowing the trans temp and trans stat trigger temperature. Look like he has an 8 speed and I know nothing about that transmission. But lets say it is in the cool mode. Yea, it adds load to the radiator.

I'm looking at that 217F water temp and asking myself why he's still running 73 mph. Did he snap the picture on the first cycle of the thermostat? OEM is 207F with a 3* +/-. Are the fans running? I don't know enough to say.

tyler.frost92 · April 7, 2020

Hard to say without knowing the trans temp and trans stat trigger temperature. Look like he has an 8 speed and I know nothing about that transmission. But lets say it is in the cool mode. Yea, it adds load to the radiator.

I'm looking at that 217F water temp and asking myself why he's still running 73 mph. Did he snap the picture on the first cycle of the thermostat? OEM is 207F with a 3* +/-. Are the fans running? I don't know enough to say.

Trans was running a consistent 185 pretty much the entire time. Truck has always been like this. Snapped the pic over an hour into my drive, I run 75-85 on the highway. No reason I shouldn't be able to do so with a pop up on the back, and have to back off speed. Temps were cycling between 215-221 the whole way, oil temps between 225-231. Unloaded normal driving the truck usually runs between 185-210 depending on traffic and ambient temperature.

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tyler.frost92 · April 7, 2020

Hard to say without knowing the trans temp and trans stat trigger temperature. Look like he has an 8 speed and I know nothing about that transmission. But lets say it is in the cool mode. Yea, it adds load to the radiator.

I'm looking at that 217F water temp and asking myself why he's still running 73 mph. Did he snap the picture on the first cycle of the thermostat? OEM is 207F with a 3* +/-. Are the fans running? I don't know enough to say.

Truck is a 2017 6.2 8 speed if that makes any difference. 3.23 gears on 285/70/17. S&B intake, Corsa exhaust, Nothing crazy beyond stock

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newdude · April 7, 2020

I'd be leary changing thermostats to a lower temp with the active air shutters. If the ECT is seeing too low a temp, it might close the shutters and cause the trans temps to rise and or overheat other components.

Stock stat begins to open at 188F and is wide open at 206F, so really you are only within 5-10 degrees of operating temp with the trailer. Well within factory specs.

Do you run tow/haul mode on with the camper? Not sure if the air shutters open sooner with it on but that might be something to play with.

tyler.frost92 · April 7, 2020

I'd be leary changing thermostats to a lower temp with the active air shutters. If the ECT is seeing too low a temp, it might close the shutters and cause the trans temps to rise and or overheat other components.

Stock stat begins to open at 188F and is wide open at 206F, so really you are only within 5-10 degrees of operating temp with the trailer. Well within factory specs.

Do you run tow/haul mode on with the camper? Not sure if the air shutters open sooner with it on but that might be something to play with.

I do usually run tow/haul. Doesn't make a difference once at highway speed

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Grumpy Bear · April 7, 2020

If you're good, I'm good. Have a nice day.

tyler.frost92 · April 7, 2020

If you're good, I'm good. Have a nice day.

Ok?

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Grumpy Bear · April 7, 2020

2 hours ago, tyler.frost92 said:

Trans was running a consistent 185 pretty much the entire time. Truck has always been like this. Snapped the pic over an hour into my drive, I run 75-85 on the highway. No reason I shouldn't be able to do so with a pop up on the back, and have to back off speed. Temps were cycling between 215-221 the whole way, oil temps between 225-231. Unloaded normal driving the truck usually runs between 185-210 depending on traffic and ambient temperature.

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Your running with the stat wide open, shutters open and fans are running and temperatures are above all trigger points.

Logic time. Your at the systems current heat capacity limits. It's doing everything it's been designed to do.

It's kind of like running 200 rpm over the redline and thinking that should not be a problem.

A thermostat change won't help. I had no idea your driving that fast with a trailer.

You've indicated you have no desire to run slower so...if your happy, I'm happy.

tyler.frost92 · April 7, 2020

Your running with the stat wide open, shutters open and fans are running and temperatures are above all trigger points.

Logic time. Your at the systems current heat capacity limits. It's doing everything it's been designed to do.

It's kind of like running 200 rpm over the redline and thinking that should not be a problem.

A thermostat change won't help. I had no idea your driving that fast with a trailer.

You've indicated you have no desire to run slower so...if your happy, I'm happy.

Just odd, never had a truck that's ran this hot while towing. I figured it wouldn't be out of the question to shave off 10-15 degrees.

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