LT vs P rated tires

[amxguy1970]

11 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 

That may be the cause, leveled trucks ride like crap, much rougher than stock. It’ll cost you about $150 for the two rear Bilstein 5100’s and lower your tire pressure down a bit which “WILL” make a world of difference. Also, check to see what size block was added to the rear if any cause if not and you like the stance then you’ll be doing 4600’s (stock height) instead of the 5100’s which are designed for up to a two inch lift.


Sent from Above

 

How does it "ride like crap" when there is no change in the spring rates (unless you use a preload spacer) or in the shock settings? That is one of the beauty's of a top or bottom spacer, it keeps the factory ride if you aren't going too high, at which point then you are hitting the end points of certain suspension components at even moderate sized bumps. Unless you add an E-rated tire the ride will stay the same or nearly the same. Mine had no noticeable change when I had my 1.5" top spacer added and went to a taller P-rated Grabber AT2. It actually got a little worse riding when I added the Bilsteins set at the 3rd notch. I shouldn't say worse, but rougher in most conditions with smaller bumps. It certainly helped settle the truck down on large bumps and under braking/turning.

 

I wouldn't recommend changing just two shocks, they won't be matched in how they handle (different rebound, dampening and compression settings). The rear Bilsteins will be set up to handle in relation to what the front bilsteins respond, and that will be a good amount different I imagine than what the factory front shocks respond with. While ok, it is best to change 4 of the same brand and type unless going for some specific set up at which point usually they are adjustable. 

 

Tyler

[TXGREEK]

How does it "ride like crap" when there is no change in the spring rates (unless you use a preload spacer) or in the shock settings? That is one of the beauty's of a top or bottom spacer, it keeps the factory ride if you aren't going too high, at which point then you are hitting the end points of certain suspension components at even moderate sized bumps. Unless you add an E-rated tire the ride will stay the same or nearly the same. Mine had no noticeable change when I had my 1.5" top spacer added and went to a taller P-rated Grabber AT2. It actually got a little worse riding when I added the Bilsteins set at the 3rd notch. I shouldn't say worse, but rougher in most conditions with smaller bumps. It certainly helped settle the truck down on large bumps and under braking/turning.
 
I wouldn't recommend changing just two shocks, they won't be matched in how they handle (different rebound, dampening and compression settings). The rear Bilsteins will be set up to handle in relation to what the front bilsteins respond, and that will be a good amount different I imagine than what the factory front shocks respond with. While ok, it is best to change 4 of the same brand and type unless going for some specific set up at which point usually they are adjustable. 
 
Tyler

Funny hearing from you, thought you only pooped up when “AMSOIL” was mentioned LOL! Speaking from personal experience, it rode like CRAP! Lifted my truck with a high quality suspension and drives enormously different.

Btw, countless of comments stating the same as mine, leveled trucks ride like CRAP, bad angles etc etc.


Sent from Above

[TXGREEK]

How does it "ride like crap" when there is no change in the spring rates (unless you use a preload spacer) or in the shock settings? That is one of the beauty's of a top or bottom spacer, it keeps the factory ride if you aren't going too high, at which point then you are hitting the end points of certain suspension components at even moderate sized bumps. Unless you add an E-rated tire the ride will stay the same or nearly the same. Mine had no noticeable change when I had my 1.5" top spacer added and went to a taller P-rated Grabber AT2. It actually got a little worse riding when I added the Bilsteins set at the 3rd notch. I shouldn't say worse, but rougher in most conditions with smaller bumps. It certainly helped settle the truck down on large bumps and under braking/turning.
 
I wouldn't recommend changing just two shocks, they won't be matched in how they handle (different rebound, dampening and compression settings). The rear Bilsteins will be set up to handle in relation to what the front bilsteins respond, and that will be a good amount different I imagine than what the factory front shocks respond with. While ok, it is best to change 4 of the same brand and type unless going for some specific set up at which point usually they are adjustable. 
 
Tyler

Funny hearing from you, thought you only pooped up when “AMSOIL” was mentioned LOL! Speaking from personal experience, it rode like CRAP! Lifted my truck with a high quality suspension and drives enormously different.

Btw, countless of comments stating the same as mine, leveled trucks ride like CRAP, bad angles etc etc.


Sent from Above

[Grumpy Bear]

2 hours ago, madconcept said:

Yes I also have a front levelling kit installed.

Truck came that way.

What type of leveling kit? Some assumptions being made here. Spacer blocks? Leveling shocks? Knuckle lift? Control arm kit?

 

Anyway that part has nothing to do with the rear end bunny hopping. That sir has to do with he fact these 'half ton' trucks are sprung like 'one ton' PLUS trucks and driven unloaded (most of the time) which has the rear shock in the top 1/4 of it's travel. A two fold problem as it has valves for the full payload PLUS runs out of rebound travel in a hurry. You can't have it both ways no matter what the salesman says. 

 

That said, tires are 'springs', Air springs. Undampened springs. E rated tires are like adding more spring rate to a system that is already over sprung for empty service. STIFF sidewalls that are indifferent to subtle tire pressure changes in a way a P rate tire is. 

 

[TXGREEK]

What type of leveling kit? Some assumptions being made here. Spacer blocks? Leveling shocks? Knuckle lift? Control arm kit?
 
Anyway that part has nothing to do with the rear end bunny hopping. That sir has to do with he fact these 'half ton' trucks are sprung like 'one ton' PLUS trucks and driven unloaded (most of the time) which has the rear shock in the top 1/4 of it's travel. A two fold problem as it has valves for the full payload PLUS runs out of rebound travel in a hurry. You can't have it both ways no matter what the salesman says. 
 
That said, tires are 'springs', Air springs. Undampened springs. E rated tires are like adding more spring rate to a system that is already over sprung for empty service. STIFF sidewalls that are indifferent to subtle tire pressure changes in a way a P rate tire is. 
 

All my K2’s hopped in the rear really bad and was 95% resolved with new shocks and put E rated tires on them too. I’d recommend doing all the shocks at the same time but depends on his budget. I’ve had two leveled trucks in my life, NEVER AGAIN! Lift or stay stock cause the suspension angles play a HUGE roll in comfort especially on uneven roads.

Good luck!


Sent from Above

[Snuff]

4 hours ago, Snuff said:

I do not think so. I have KO2’s LT 275/60R-20’s on mine and I love them. Mine are load range D. Ran the similar tire in 18’s on my 2011 in load E for 8 years and loved them. If you tow any the LT tire are much stronger and safer. You have a great tire!

To clarify, I started buying LT tires in 2010 because I bought a 6,000 travel trailer and I hunt in South Texas on a ranch with rocky roads, mesquite and cactus. The E and D rated LT’s might ride a little stiffer but honestly running down the highway at 80 mph I have no complaints. The piece of mind with towing and hauling and insurance against rocks and thorns is very much worth it to me. I realize that LT’s are not a must but in my case I do not feel as if I am throwing away $1,000.

[Snuff]

I have also replaced my shocks with Eibach Pro Truck Sport Shocks on all 4 wheels which helped a lot. I run 36 psi in my truck and the ride is fine. I have been driving Silverado’s since 1974 except for one f-250 from 1992-1994. I think these new trucks are the best 1/2 ton’s available. As others have said, “they are a truck”.

[madconcept]

Some good info.

I definitely won’t be swapping out the tires anytime soon and will just live with the ride.

I’m also sure that with the NHT package it would take away from the ride quality as well.

As many have said it’s a truck.  I’ve also nearly doubled my payload and am now able to tow over 11,000 lbs with the NHT.  Can’t expect it to ride like a sedan.

As much as I like the KO2’s and how they perform day to day I’ll probably factor in the ride quality when it comes time to replace them.  May also look at new shocks at that time too!

I’ll only really have the whole family in the truck while we are towing the TT and full off gear.

I’m sure the truck will drive beautifully loaded down!

[redwngr]

The tires (especially rears) can be run at lower pressure when the vehicle is unloaded.  

 

Find the pressure vs load chart for any tire, and find the the 'correct', or 'recommended' pressure changes with the load being carried.

Of course there is still a maximum load that the tire is designed to carry. 

 

[TXGREEK]

Specs for BFG KO2’s




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[Dunn]

have already loaded mine with 20 bags of 94lb concrete and 100 block wall caps other day on stock radial Michelins and not a problem....offroad maybe an issue but for street I have already had mine pretty maxed out plenty of times last 2 months.....works like a champ

[Roscopcoletrain]

swap the rear shocks to help with the bunny hopping. 

 

imo, if you're towing or have a lot of payload, LT or at min an XL P tire. I've have Grapper apt XL tires on my rig and they tow very well.