3k Mile OCI

[TXGREEK]

I believe he was referring to his air filter...

Lol, took me by surprise.


Sent from Above

[steelerdude15]

41 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 

What oil are you using??

 

 

Sent from Above

 

Correction: what air filter are you using?

 

 

23 minutes ago, Darmichar said:

I believe he was referring to his air filter...

I was referring to air filters, but should I open this can of worms?  TX, I know you're a big Amsoil guy after reading through multiple threads over the past few months. When I had a Malibu, I used Castrol Edge and when I had my Impala, I used Mobil 1. I probably will stick with Mobil 1 since I never had any issues with it. I've looked into Amsoil and many other brands so I have done my research. I also really like Purolator filters and haven't had any issues with them on my cars. I like to use the Boss filter. I usually change my oil every 3,500 to 4,000 miles because I only have short commutes and deal with stop and go traffic.

 

As for the air filter, I previously have used Purolator engine and cabin air filters without any issues. I've been thinking about using Carquest air filters to save some money since the Purolator filters are pretty expensive for our trucks where I live.

Edited February 10, 2020 by steelerdude15

[TXGREEK]

I was referring to air filters, but should I open this can of worms? [emoji6] TX, I know you're a big Amsoil guy after reading through multiple threads over the past few months. When I had a Malibu, I used Castrol Edge and when I had my Impala, I used Mobil 1. I probably will stick with Mobil 1 since I never had any issues with it. I've looked into Amsoil and many other brands so I have done my research. I also really like Purolator filters and haven't had any issues with them on my cars. I like to use the Boss filter. I usually change my oil every 3,500 to 4 miles because I only have short commutes and deal with stop and go traffic.

 

As for the air filter, I previously have used Purolator engine and cabin air filters without any issues. I've been thinking about using Carquest air filters to save some money since the Purolator filters are pretty expensive for our trucks where I live.

 

Lol, yeah, I’m hooked on Amsoil. As for air filters, there was a discussion a while back on best air filter, an article popped up and totally annihilated K&N air filters and other performance filters claiming they weren’t filtering out enough dirt. Long story short, OEM and Wix Filters tested the best in all around performance so I’ve been using Wix ever since

 

Kudos to you! You’re definitely pro-active and gotta give credit to where credit is due. Good job [emoji1303]

 

 

Sent from Above

 

[Black02Silverado]

According to my UOA's the Fram air filters I get at Walmart work well also. 

[steelerdude15]

9 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 

Lol, yeah, I’m hooked on Amsoil. As for air filters, there was a discussion a while back on best air filter, an article popped up and totally annihilated K&N air filters and other performance filters claiming they weren’t filtering out enough dirt. Long story short, OEM and Wix Filters tested the best in all around performance so I’ve been using Wix ever since 

 

Kudos to you! You’re definitely pro-active and gotta give credit to where credit is due. Good job

 

 

Sent from Above

 

Yeah, I tried using a K&N air filter when I was younger and after a couple of years, I started to not like it. I got tired of having to clean and put fresh oil in it so I went back to paper filters.

 

I've heard a lot of great things about Wix filters. Oddly enough, they aren't sold in my area, but in smaller towns nearby. I know I could order them online, but I like to run into a store and grab the filters. My local Advance Auto always have every Purolator filter I need in stock. I get a discount and since I'm 10 minutes away from the Delaware border, I go to that store because its tax free as well.

 

One last note about Amsoil, when I change the fluid in my front and rear axle, I will be using Amsoil for that.

[MaverickZ71]

16 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

Non the less, newer vehicles are changing the way we think of engine oil and tomorrow’s requirements.




Sent from Above

And these new requirements are changing the way some of us look at these newer vehicles, too--not for the better.  

[diyer2]

I avoid auto stores.

Cheaper on line.

Shipped to my door.

[TXGREEK]

And these new requirements are changing the way some of us look at these newer vehicles, too--not for the better.  

You’re absolutely correct! 0W20 wasn’t around until EPA put all these restrictions, causing manufacturers to tighten tolerances on their already problematic motors in order to squeeze as much mpg’s as possible. I like change for the better but changing before even getting a fix on the issues only opens a new can of worms. I’ve read hundreds of issues the T1’s are having and I feel blessed having the last year of the K2’s as my 2018 runs excellent.
My lift installer (friends) refused to do my install knowing I’d be switching for a new truck every two years but he was wrong, did the lift and absolutely LOVE my truck, the 6.2 has a lot to do with it but I’m also attributing my over all happiness to very high quality proactive maintenance I do to it as well.

The T1’s look great as do the K2’s, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it.


Sent from Above

[TXGREEK]

I avoid auto stores.
Cheaper on line.
Shipped to my door.
[emoji4]

Getting mine today [emoji6]


Sent from Above

[TXGREEK]

Btw, I visited the dealership for some touch up paint and while I was there I spoke with a mechanics about the used trucks coming in. I asked if they change the oil right away and answer was YES. It’s one of the main concerns dealerships are having when it comes to trade ins, serious lack of maintenance performed and THIS is why I will never buy a used truck!

People will buy a $50k truck and only change the oil either when they get around to it or when they can afford to do so. Later, engine problems are blamed on the manufacturers quality build and they’ll pop up on forums dogging GM in order to make their lack of proper maintenance the manufacturers fault. These type of consumers are all over these forums, attacking anyone with pro active maintenance intervals.

Good job you pro active Truck Owners!


Sent from Above

[Bob2C]

Btw, I visited the dealership for some touch up paint and while I was there I spoke with a mechanics about the used trucks coming in. I asked if they change the oil right away and answer was YES. It’s one of the main concerns dealerships are having when it comes to trade ins, serious lack of maintenance performed and THIS is why I will never buy a used truck!

People will buy a $50k truck and only change the oil either when they get around to it or when they can afford to do so. Later, engine problems are blamed on the manufacturers quality build and they’ll pop up on forums dogging GM in order to make their lack of proper maintenance the manufacturers fault. These type of consumers are all over these forums, attacking anyone with pro active maintenance intervals.

Good job you pro active Truck Owners!


Sent from Above

People just don’t care. They lease and figure it’s not my problem, I’m getting a new car in 3 years. We have turned into a throw away society.


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[TXGREEK]

People just don’t care. They lease and figure it’s not my problem, I’m getting a new car in 3 years. We have turned into a throw away society.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

You’re halfway there. And then there are those that live by the recommendations and then oops, I’m a bit past due on my oil change lol and last but definitely not least, the infamous:

 

“Based on my personal experience, I strongly believe the minimum requirement oil I’ve found for $1 after rebate SHOULD be good for 10k plus miles because it’s full synthetic and everyone knows that full Synthetic means longer OCI’s”

 

I’ve also come across those that have 10k miles and recommend even longer because they’ve tested their oil and found it still had some protective properties left to it even though it was super dirty at 10k miles.

 

Sometimes I wonder why I’m even on these forums and then I bump into you guys that are just as proactive maintenance doers as I am, Cheers [emoji482]

 

 

 

 

Sent from Above

 

[diyer2]

There's an aquaintence of mine that has a new Toyota truck. Almost a year old with over 5 K miles on the original oil. Told him when he got it to change the oil early breaking in a new motor.

Saw him last week and showed him the pictures on my phone of the oil out of our new cars motor at 700 miles. His reply was the dealer told him to bring it in at 10 K miles. I said sure they did, it's a free oil change and they want to save money IMO.

 

[MaverickZ71]

 

[Grumpy Bear]

On 2/9/2020 at 12:48 PM, TXGREEK said:

Minimum requirement oil packages aren’t doing their job. API has “FINALLY” started to confront the fact that today’s higher tolerance motors ARE NOT as compatible with these engine oils as they’ve been lead to believe. I’ve preached NON STOP about buying better quality oil with higher cleaning and protection packages and instead, it’s always about buying the cheapest minimum requirements set forth by the auto manufacturer just enough to get them through the manufacturers warranty period.

 

Early OCI’s is just the beginning!

You are misreading this standard sir:

 

This new standard has three bullet points. (from their video) 

• Ensure protection against LSPI and timing chain wear
• Verify wear protection
•  Measure fuel economy 

This new standard are but six new test and a new license and NOT new formulations. In fact from the API site:

 

Key points:

• Starting May 1, 2020, ILSAC GF-6A provides a new basis for issuance of a license to use the API Certification Mark “Starburst.” Until April 30, 2021, ILSAC GF-5 also provides a basis for issuance of a license to use the API Certification Mark “Starburst.”
• Starting May 1, 2020, ILSAC GF-6B provides the only basis for issuance of a license to use the API Certification Mark “Shield.”
• Effective May 1, 2021, ILSAC GF-6A provides the only basis for issuance of a license to use the API Certification Mark “Starburst.” Oils meeting ILSAC GF-5 will no longer be eligible to display the API Certification Mark “Starburst” and will no longer appear on the online EOLCS Directory after April 30, 2021.
• Oil marketers may now license oils meeting ILSAC GF-6A as ILSAC GF-5 and API SN, GF-6B as API SN and API SP as API SN.
• Starting May 1, 2020, API Service SP may be licensed for use in the upper portion of the API Service Symbol “Donut,” and oils meeting SP with Resource Conserving requirements may be licensed to display “Resource Conserving” in the lower portion of the API Service Symbol in conjunction with API Service SP in the upper portion.
• Marketers are free to identify qualifying oils as meeting ILSAC GF-6A, GF-6B, and API Service SP prior to the May 1 first licensing date but must avoid statements that imply API certification or licensing of the new specifications and service category in advance of that date.
• Marketers that want to claim their oils are licensed by API as meeting ILSAC GF-6A, GF- 6B, and/or API SP on the first licensing date must apply for licensing of the GF-6A, GF-6B, and API SP oils through the on-line application system at https://engineoil.api.org/AccountManager/WelcomeMarketer .
• API will accept applications for products meeting the new standards for a period of time prior to May 1, 2020 and will process applications as they are received, but the right to claim API licensing against the new standards will not be allowed until May 1, 2020.
• Oils licensed against the new standards will not appear in the online EOLCS Directory until May 1, 2020.

Point is that almost all current Fully Synthetic SN-Plus oils already meet the new ILSAC and API standards. Mobil says their current formulations already meet the specs. Now to buy the license. 

Edited February 23, 2020 by Grumpy Bear