First Oil Change

Dunn · June 14, 2020

never had an oil related failure and keep my trucks along time......I am not a fanatic about oil at all, just change it when it needs to be changed and yeah I will do first one from dealer since its free and need to do warranty work anyways but after that ill do it myself.....since its 2500 its easier to get under truck as it sits taller....brand of oil don't really care....i used to be sponsored by amsoil for racing but never saw a difference between others so....i just used it because of deal i got from them ( i wasn't good enough to get it for free but it was a lot cheaper than buying anything else, lol)

Edited June 14, 2020 by Dunn

Hagar68 · September 1, 2020

According to owners manual in towing section, you are supposed to change oil after break in but BEFORE towing for the first time.

Just FYI.

Colossus · September 1, 2020

Yup, very wise idea. And I suggest replacing front and rear diff and transfer case at around 10,000 miles as well. You'll be surprised with how much crap is on the magnets. Do the tranny at 30,000 miles too.

L8T · September 21, 2020

On 4/6/2020 at 2:07 PM, redwngr said:

That's interesting, cuz that's not what the online copy says.

Just says:

The vehicle does not need an elaborate break-in.

But it will perform better in the long run if you follow these guidelines:

. Keep the vehicle speed at 88 km/h (55 mph) or less for the first 805 km (500 mi).

. Do not drive at any one constant speed, fast or slow, for the first 805 km (500 mi).
Do not make full-throttle starts. Avoid downshifting to brake or slow the vehicle.

. Avoid making hard stops for the first 322 km (200 mi) or so.

During this time the new brake linings are not yet broken in. Hard stops with new linings can mean premature wear and earlier replacement.

Follow this breaking-in guideline every time you get new brake linings.

. Do not tow a trailer during break-in. See Trailer Towing pg 292 for the trailer towing capabilities of the vehicle and more information.
Following break-in, engine speed and load can be gradually increased.

Not a thing about changing the oil after 500 miles...

But I'm sure the post was just wanting to get those that don't rtfm excited...

LOL I picked up my 3500HD last thursday. Sunday today and right out of the lot was a pinner so I didn't get run over merging onto the highway, I've towed, gone WOT many times, touched the speed limiter 4 times, basically done everything I shouldn't. First two oil changes will be done by the dealer and all will be done as per the OLM. 1400km on it now. Will see how she holds up.

Richard472 · January 6, 2021

Normally if you go for premium oil, it's because of its mileage when you'd have to change your oil. But for me, I really don't mind using regular oil, as long as I change it every 3,000 miles. I use my truck as a daily but not as a heavy loader or use it as a truck per se. I think premium oil would be worth it for those trucks that are used for commercial and heavy duty purpose. Just my .02 cents.

Ray Pickle · January 8, 2021

If your changing on 3k intervals your wasting time and money, but to each his own!

Grumpy Bear · January 8, 2021

48 minutes ago, Ray Pickle said:

If your changing on 3k intervals your wasting time and money, but to each his own!

Depends on the lubricant and the service and the purpose.

I've had guys turn Castor Oils into cinder chips in 50 miles.

Ray Pickle · January 8, 2021

On a gas 2020 2500 ANY qualifying oil will provide protection for o.l.m. dictated oil change intervals. Typically 5 to 7500 miles depwnding on usage. Certainly there qmwould be a few exceptions. But anyone who wishes to follow 20 year old guidance/technology is welcome to do so.

Grumpy Bear · January 8, 2021

1 hour ago, Ray Pickle said:

On a gas 2020 2500 ANY qualifying oil will provide protection for o.l.m. dictated oil change intervals. Typically 5 to 7500 miles depwnding on usage. Certainly there qmwould be a few exceptions. But anyone who wishes to follow 20 year old guidance/technology is welcome to do so.

I love these sort of sentences.

:crackup:

Really? You want to 'oil shame' me!

:rollin:

Safety razors were popularized in the 1900s by King Camp Gillette's invention, the double-edge safety razor.

Technology has advanced to disposable multibladed Teflon coated, gel impregnated devices.

All sorts of electric razors.

Yet the closest, smoothest most comfortable shave a man can get is by a good barber who knows how to use a two hundred year old technology called a Huntsman straight razor.

:rolleyes:

Not only am I welcome to do so...I insist.

Treat yourself to a good shave sometime.

Edited January 8, 2021 by Grumpy Bear

spm1us · January 10, 2021

The 6.6L direct injection gas engines in the HD trucks are an unknown commodity as far as carbon build on the valves, etc. There is no longer any fuel wash to help keep the valves clean over time and it is well documented, from other brands, that the carbon build-up can get quite severe using direct injection. Part of the Dexos 2 oil design specifications are to primarily control the residues from oil vapor, blow by and build up in the intake tract. I plan on 4500-5000 mile oil change intervals with Shell Rotella Gas & Truck 5W30 and Baldwin B7449 filters. I’m in FL and the oils look like ice tea when in operation in the heat. Oil and filters are cheap when you consider most have a $70K + investment!!!
As they say: “You pays your money and You takes your chances”!

Edited January 10, 2021 by spm1us

Ray Pickle · January 12, 2021

I have used a b.g. product to deal with intake valve buildup due to d.i.

Grumpy Bear · February 11, 2021

On 1/29/2020 at 8:03 PM, Grumpy Bear said:

Synthetic is a key word here. Here's a list of currently approved synthetics.

https://www.gmdexos.com/brands/dexos1/index.html

You will note that there is not a single 'synthetic blend" one on the list nor any conventional oils.

In general an oil that has an API service class of SN-PLUS meets the GM DEXOS standard with some minor exceptions. One just noted is there are some Syn. Blends that are SN-PLUS that are not DEXOS1 Gen2 approved. DEXOS demands a minimum "FULL SYNTHETIC". DEXOS has a lower NOACH upper limit than the API standard. 13% V 15%. You will also notice that the DEXOS1 GEN2 standard does not cover 10W30 or higher SAE viscosity grade oils nor anything lighter than 0W20 although a great many of them meet the API SN-PLUS standards. So there is the third difference. SO

1.) Lower NOACK (13% maximum)

2.) Full Synthetic content

3.) Nothing heavier than 5W30 or lighter than 0W20 (no 0W16) Note: there is only ONE 0W30 on that list.

A.) In addition both SN and SN-PLUS have both an upper and lower limit on Phosphorus. Range is 600 to 800 ppm

B.) SN-PLUS also has an upper limit on calcium at 1000 ppm or 0.1% It is the PLUS in SN-PLUS.

Having said that you will find on the shelves a few oils that meet ALL DEXOS1 GEN2 standards and yet are not 'Certified'. Use your best judgement if you choose one of those.

Now lets get to the common sense part of common sense. ANY oil that carries the DEXOS1 GEN2 logo will be:

A FULL SYNTHETIC, meaning Group III / Group IV blend of base stocks. It will meet the additive requirements set by GM engineering both in type and in amount. ANY differences in those oils will fall BETWEEN the specifications of the standard. Anything past that is marketing.

A word on Premium Oils. By this I'm going to assume you mean AMSOIL, SYNLUBE, Red Line. Of those three only one meets the calcium and phosphorus requirements of the DEXOS standards. Red Line HP has too much phosphorus and SYNLUBE is past the SAE Viscosity grade. There maybe someone out there I don't know about yet, some boutique blender that checks all the boxes but...So your question boils down to is AMSOIL Signature Series 'worth it'.

Well here's what makes it different. It is a POA/POE blend of base oils that exceeds the DEXOS1 GEN2 Group III/PAO blend standard. And yet one that does not carry the logo on the front label. YET. It has about half the NOACK of the others, 6%. It has a robust acid neutral / detergent package intended for extended OCI's. Those are the biggest differences. Used at OEM OCI's its detergent package and POE content (a solvent) will leave the motor cleaner longer. It will take more heat longer. Not huge but notable. So....is any of that worth it to you?

I need to correct an error that personal research has made me aware of. Bold above.

The current DEXOS license does NOT permit use of Group IV or V oils to be used AS A BASE OIL. It is currently under review as the newest pending DEXOS standards for....wait of it......cleanliness, can not be supported solely on Group II+ Group III Group III+ base oils with continued reductions in some critical additives.

HOWEVER use as an additive or additive carrier oil is permitted and in fact essential to depress the aniline point far enough to get the additive package to remain in suspension. You may have noticed quite a few oils the state 'Shake Well before Use"?

They have backed themselves in that space between a Rock and a Hard Place.

GMC4Zee · February 15, 2021

So given this motor is direct injection and we want to avoid buildup of blow by on the valves, would a catch can be a good investment? BTW I have a 2021 HD3500 on order.

Edited February 15, 2021 by GMC4Zee

Laidback · February 15, 2021

exactly what additives are you guys using to help prevent this build up?

spm1us · February 15, 2021

You don’t need any additives if you use a quality DEXOS GEN 2 oil. I am using Shell Rotella Gas Truck 5W30 with Baldwin filters on a 4500-5000 mile oil change interval. Oil and filters are cheap compared to the investment in your 2500/3500 HD Gas truck!