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Need Help making Garage Door Opener work on keyed circuit


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I want to make my Home Link garage opener to where it is powered by the key or RAP not hot all the time.

I have found all the circuits on GM Upfitter's site but I am too stupid to read the dang schematics.

I think I can cut the hot wire to the opener and tap into the sliding glass circuit to achieve my goal. Both are in the overhead console.

Is anyone on the forum able to assist me.

If so I will give you the page numbers and all the info on GM Upfitters site.

I don't want my opener hot all the time as I park outside and some idiot could break in my truck and open the garage door.

If this will work a lot of users will be doing it I'm sure.

Thanks!

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Are you sure that it’s not already on a keyed power source, but with a timeout delay? I know on my previous truck, it stayed hot for some time after I turned off the key and exited, but went dead after that.

Maybe try this... roll down one of the front windows, turn off the ignition, exit the truck and lock the doors. Place the keys away from the truck for 10 minutes. Still with the keys away from the truck, try reaching in through the open window (don’t open the door) and press the home link button. See if it still has power or not.


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17 hours ago, bamorris2 said:

Are you sure that it’s not already on a keyed power source, but with a timeout delay? I know on my previous truck, it stayed hot for some time after I turned off the key and exited, but went dead after that.

Maybe try this... roll down one of the front windows, turn off the ignition, exit the truck and lock the doors. Place the keys away from the truck for 10 minutes. Still with the keys away from the truck, try reaching in through the open window (don’t open the door) and press the home link button. See if it still has power or not.


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I've never tried it in this way...I too thought it was hot all the time.  I will need to try this out whenever I get a chance.

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19 hours ago, bamorris2 said:

Are you sure that it’s not already on a keyed power source, but with a timeout delay? I know on my previous truck, it stayed hot for some time after I turned off the key and exited, but went dead after that.

Maybe try this... roll down one of the front windows, turn off the ignition, exit the truck and lock the doors. Place the keys away from the truck for 10 minutes. Still with the keys away from the truck, try reaching in through the open window (don’t open the door) and press the home link button. See if it still has power or not.


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I tried this on my 19 Denali. Left the truck off and locked for 2 hrs. Reached in and opener still worked (key was in the house). My wife's 18 Traverse is the same way.

 

Jay

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I tried this on my 19 Denali. Left the truck off and locked for 2 hrs. Reached in and opener still worked (key was in the house). My wife's 18 Traverse is the same way.
 
Jay

Well that’s not very safe, and certainly a change that I wasn’t expecting. Now I’ll join you in the search for a solution so it isn’t hot all the time.


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On 1/21/2020 at 5:04 PM, Grandpa1 said:

I want to make my Home Link garage opener to where it is powered by the key or RAP not hot all the time.

I have found all the circuits on GM Upfitter's site but I am too stupid to read the dang schematics.

I think I can cut the hot wire to the opener and tap into the sliding glass circuit to achieve my goal. Both are in the overhead console.

Is anyone on the forum able to assist me.

If so I will give you the page numbers and all the info on GM Upfitters site.

I don't want my opener hot all the time as I park outside and some idiot could break in my truck and open the garage door.

If this will work a lot of users will be doing it I'm sure.

Thanks!

 

Possible alternate solution:

 

I've discovered that the control pad in the garage can easily be used to 'lock' the garage door so it won't open using a remote.

(the built in vehicle remotes and the remotes supplied with the openers; none of them work when the pad is set to lock)

 

Our openers have 3 button control pads. Big button is the usual open/close, one of the smaller buttons turns on the light on the opener without moving the door, the other button locks out the opener. 

When locked the is a LED indicator light that verifies that the door is locked out.

 

I use the 'lock' on the openers regularly, for the reasons you mention. 

Edited by redwngr
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Thanks for the reply's guys.

It is not safe yet I think it could be fixed easily. I think. If we could cut the constant hot wire going to the opener and replace it with a tap from the rear sliding glass circuit it would work with the key or RAP.

I found the circuit schematics.

If anyone can read the circuit schematics they are located  at the GM Upfitter website, Body Builder Manual, Light Duty Vehicles, Full Size, Chevrolet Silverado LD 1500 Pickup Electrical.

Go there and it will download or you can save to file.

The Remote circuit is on Page 8-18 and the Sliding Rear Glass Circuit is on 2-10.

Sure wish I could use the built in opener in my high dollar truck.

By the way, the remote in my wife's Hyundai SUV is hot all the time too! Don't make sense to me why it's the industry standard to make a remote garage door opener hot all the time.

Thanks everyone!

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Perhaps it is this way so you can open your garage sitting in the vehicle before you start it...  don't really want to start your car in the garage with the door down...     If you open it by the wall switch before you get in, then no big deal...  but if you are trying to open it from sitting in the seat, would be tough.

 

 

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17 minutes ago, greco2003 said:

Why isn’t it safe? It’s the same thing as if you leave your garage remote in your vehicle all the time.

I started taking my garage door opener out when my neighbor's truck was broken into and his remote was used to open his door and crooks went into his house. This happened back in 2001.

I had never thought of that happening but it did!

I have my remote opener hanging on a peg right by my back door and grab it when I'm leaving and take it out of my vehicle when I get home.

Crooks will figure it out if you let them.

If I can't modify my new trucks opener I will continue to do what I've been doing.

Edited by Grandpa1
screwed up
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  • 3 weeks later...

Well, I got it done.

Now my Home Link Garage Door Opener that came with my new truck is on a RAP circuit and is not powered on all the time.

It wasn't easy but it can be done without cutting any harnesses except for the Home Link module plug.

I was unable to use any circuits in the overhead console so I fished a RAP power wire from the passenger side fuse box up to the overhead console.

Works great. Don't know why GM made the dang thing always on.

Someone breaks into your truck and presses the Home Link button and goes right on in. Might as well just leave a key in the front door of your house.

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Well, I got it done.
Now my Home Link Garage Door Opener that came with my new truck is on a RAP circuit and is not powered on all the time.
It wasn't easy but it can be done without cutting any harnesses except for the Home Link module plug.
I was unable to use any circuits in the overhead console so I fished a RAP power wire from the passenger side fuse box up to the overhead console.
Works great. Don't know why GM made the dang thing always on.
Someone breaks into your truck and presses the Home Link button and goes right on in. Might as well just leave a key in the front door of your house.

Nice work! What RAP circuit did you tap into at the fuse panel?
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  • 5 months later...

Not to revive an old thread, but does anyone have pictures or instructions on making this modification? Any info would help, just a little hesitant to rip into the upper console and headliner of my new truck...

 

Thanks in advance!

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