2019 GMC Yukon NO Trans Gears, NO Tachometer, NO Oil Pressure, NO Power Steering SECOND TIME!

Bob2C · January 15, 2020

Is it possible that there was OTA update that is screwing with systems? Don’t know if OTA updates are just for the infotainment only or can be done to vehicle itself.

Not really clear in this reading

https://my.gmc.com/how-to-support/maintenance/over-air-software-updates

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BlaineBug · January 16, 2020

I believe it was on December 20th, I had just gone in for the recall about changing the programming for a failed wheel speed sensor. I had not experienced it but apparently if a wheel speed sensor failed, it would brake at that particular wheel and probably caused someone to crash. So the programming changed something in regards to stabili-trac I suppose. Not sure what that has to do with the gauge cluster, transmission, power steering, or other electronics.

Also, the user with the 2019 Suburban said they have been having issues since October of 2019. Not necessarily something recent.

Edited January 16, 2020 by BlaineBug

BlaineBug · January 16, 2020

I received a call from my dealer this morning, nothing found.

He said they cleaned some terminals around the battery and fuse block. I asked if they were corroded or dirty, he said no.

So, obviously this fix isn't going to repair shit in the long run. He said it must be physically inoperable in their shop for them to diagnose it. He said that there were three stored codes (inactive) for loss of power to the engine computer, body control module, and brake controller, but they could have been stored a very long time ago so that doesn't point to anything for a repair.

It was also pointed out to me verbally that they only get paid when there is a problem to fix, and when there isn't they don't like spending time on it.

Edited January 16, 2020 by BlaineBug

MikeWill · January 16, 2020

Thanks for sharing. I figured that would be the outcome. I’m taking mine in Friday and I know it’ll be the same bs but at least it’ll be documented.

BlaineBug · January 16, 2020

9 minutes ago, MikeWill said:

Thanks for sharing. I figured that would be the outcome. I’m taking mine in Friday and I know it’ll be the same bs but at least it’ll be documented.

Keep us updated as well. I thought your appointment was next Tuesday. Where-abouts in Indiana?

Also, how many separate instances of this problem have you experienced? Are the symptoms 100% identical?

Edited January 16, 2020 by BlaineBug

MikeWill · January 16, 2020

The only open spot they had available online when I scheduled was next Tuesday but they called me and told me they wanted me to bring it in earlier. Yes identical issue. I sat started and stop The engine at least 10 times before I gained power steering and transmission. The only addition was I drove mine home a mile away and the check engine light stayed on in addition to the transmission not shifting out of first gear.

Edited January 16, 2020 by MikeWill

BlaineBug · January 16, 2020

I am interested to hear if you have any stored codes, although I would assume that they go "inactive" when the light goes off.

My dealer in particular said that there could be dozens of codes stored and that won't help point to anything because they need to be active at the time the vehicle is checked.

If you have the time, I'd suggest you call GM Customer Service/Relations and document this. It took me about 20 minutes to do so as well.

Edited January 16, 2020 by BlaineBug

BlaineBug · January 16, 2020

I picked the Yukon back up not all that long ago.

As per the paperwork, the dealership did the following: "Test drove, pulled codes- - all history. Cleaned battery cables, fuse block per #18NA161. Could not duplicate concern at this time."

I searched this TSB, and it is described as "#18-NA-161 - Steering Jerks Or Kicks Back / Reduced Power Steering Assist / Engine Stall / No Start / Service Stabilitrak / IPC / Radio / HVAC Goes Blank Various DTCs - (Oct 22, 2018)"

Apparently it affects all of these 2014-2019 models, including the GMC Yukon, GMC Sierra, Cadillac Escalade, Chevrolet Silverado, Chevrolet Tahoe, and Chevrolet Suburban.

I have read plenty and have seen plenty of videos of the jerking steering wheel, which has never happened to me. With the exception of the one 2018 Sierra owner, I have not heard anyone else complaining about having neutral in all gears, either. I can't say if this will do anything or not as they said they didn't find any corrosion or anything out of order on any of the connections. It would also be interesting to know if they checked that grounding stud on the dashboard. I assume if they go through a TSB they would do everything it suggests? Who knows, I wasn't there nor did I do the work.

One odd thing I noticed that I had not before, I was stopped and first in line at a red light, and the cross traffic was tripping my front parking sensors. Every time a car would drive by I would get the front parking sensors detecting their movement. This seem to only happen one time, shortly after I left the dealership. Do these sensors need to re-calibrate themselves after a disconnected battery by chance? I have never noticed it doing this any time in the past.

Edited January 16, 2020 by BlaineBug

BlaineBug · January 20, 2020

Something else I noticed today while running errands was a strange start. The truck was fully warm after running errands, and I had made another brief stop for about 15 minutes. Came back in and started, and it didn't just fire up. It's difficult to describe but it was almost as if the starter was cutting out. The cranking time was definitely not extended. After this I immediately drove to the nearest O'Reilly Auto parts to have the battery tested.

While the battery was connected to their tester, I fired it up, and it did the exact same thing. The O'Reilly staff member said they heard it clear as day, but did say that the battery, alternator, and starter all checked out. They did feel my voltage was somewhat high though, they said it was almost 15 volts which is higher than what they usually see.

Any thoughts? I know there was a TSB for 2015-2020 models about extended crank times, but I feel that this is different, as I did not experience any extended cranking times where the starter is continually running without firing up.

Edited January 20, 2020 by BlaineBug

SARNCAN · January 20, 2020

Something else I noticed today while running errands was a strange start. The truck was fully warm after running errands, and I had made another brief stop for about 15 minutes. Came back in and started, and it didn't just fire up. It's difficult to describe but it was almost as if the starter was cutting out. The cranking time was definitely not extended. After this I immediately drove to the nearest O'Reilly Auto parts to have the battery tested.

While the battery was connected to their tester, I fired it up, and it did the exact same thing. The O'Reilly staff member said they heard it clear as day, but did say that the battery, alternator, and starter all checked out. They did feel my voltage was somewhat high though, they said it was almost 15 volts which is higher than what they usually see.

Any thoughts? I know there was a TSB for 2015-2020 models about extended crank times, but I feel that this is different, as I did not experience any extended cranking times where the starter is continually running without firing up.

Check two thing, first is the main fuses after the battery (located at the top of the battery I guess) as well as their connection to be tight. Second, is the battery rating amps (should be 80 amps not less).

If that didn’t help, I guess you need to check the wires for any damages or to check the power steering motor underneath since it is electrical and it may draw high current (check the diagram I’ve attached earlier)

BlaineBug · January 20, 2020

Everything is tight in the region of the battery. Of course I could not get it to exhibit the symptom again on film.

I'm not sure what the battery was tested for but whatever it was, it passed. It looked to me like a digital load tester of some sort. Checked amps while not running, starting, and running. I would have thought the dealer checked this while it was in for two and a half days as well. Of course, out of that two and a half day period they probably only looked at it for 30 minutes.

I had not mentioned the symptom about the unusual starter scenario when it went in. I'm reluctant to take it back in because once again, I'll be out of my Yukon again for them not to be able to duplicate the symptom while it is in their hands.

The truck still started but the start procedure didn't sound normal as it normally does. A video would speak one thousand words.

Edited January 20, 2020 by BlaineBug

BlaineBug · January 20, 2020

1 hour ago, SARNCAN said:

Check two thing, first is the main fuses after the battery (located at the top of the battery I guess) as well as their connection to be tight. Second, is the battery rating amps (should be 80 amps not less).

If that didn’t help, I guess you need to check the wires for any damages or to check the power steering motor underneath since it is electrical and it may draw high current (check the diagram I’ve attached earlier)

Having that 80 amps in my heads, I went back to my local AutoZone to have everything re-tested.

The employee tested my battery while the vehicle was off, and it passed. Then I went to start it, and his reader said "battery voltage too low to complete test." He thought that was really weird, but then when re-checked, the alternator tested fine. He also re-checked the battery again after shutting the vehicle off, and it once again passed.

I asked him if there was any way to get a readout of the amperage, he claims there wasn't a way. Any suggestion on how to go about testing? Will one of those cheap analog load testers from Harbor Freight help me?

I do have an ELM327 OBDII bluetooth scanner. Battery voltage is 14.8 volts while running. There are also no current, pending, or history fault codes. How was my dealer able to find codes in history? They claimed there was no way to clear them. It must just be that the super inexpensive ELM327 module isn't as intuitive as the dealership's multi-thousand dollar diagnostic equipment?

BlaineBug · January 22, 2020

I finally received a call back from GM Customer Service. Apparently they spoke with the dealer, and the dealer told them that the fuse block wasn't receiving power, which caused all of my problems. I told the GM employee that the GM dealership, although they performed the TSB, informed me that they didn't find anything out of the ordinary in regards to the connections between the battery and the fuse block, therefore I am not confident that I will not experience this issue in the future. Also, how do they know what was going wrong, because in their report, they were not able to reproduce my problem! Also, nobody has had any interest in viewing my video thus far, which definitely confirms the issue I was experiencing. My main concern here is being out of the 36,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty in less than 1,000 miles. I'm asking them for some sort of guarantee that if this problem arises in the future that it be covered since I reported it prior to the expiration of the warranty. I also mentioned that the TSB mentions zilch about the transmission not wanting to shift into any gear. I'm calm and treated the customer service representative from GM very friendly, but overall, they know very little about what I am talking about. I also pulled the battery from the vehicle and took it to my local Advance Auto Parts to test it, who verified once again that it is in good condition with, I believe, 732 cranking amps. Considering I have had the battery tested at three separate parts stores, I would have to assume that it is not at fault here. By the way, whoever placed the single battery location at the passenger firewall should be questioned. What a pain in the arse location, mashed in there between the coolant reservoir, fender, and A/C lines, and the firewall. I can't imagine how difficult it would be to replace in some parking lot with frozen fingers. Talk about a god awful nightmare if it has to be done again in the future, without the comforts of my very own private garage! I have to comment that this is the absolute most inconvenient battery location that I have ever had to work with in my experience! I also went through all of the 5 battery connections including removing the entire fuse block on the driver's side of the vehicle and not finding anything wrong with any of the pins. Nothing is bent or broken or anything and everything looks immaculate to be honest, as one could consider normal on a 2019 model year vehicle. Once again, I highly recommend to each and every one of you with a similar problem to CALL GM Customer Support. Some of you have gone "quiet" which is typical of an internet forum, but that's all I've got so I hope everyone here with a troublesome GM vehicle never gives up!

Edited January 26, 2020 by BlaineBug

BlaineBug · January 26, 2020

If anyone is curious, here is a screenshot of the service performed while I had it in the shop. There were 3 codes stored in "history" pertaining to loss of communication to the ECM, ABS, and BCM.

BlaineBug · February 21, 2020

Today on Friday, the issue presented itself again. I was fortunately able gain control of the vehicle after multiple restarting attempts so that I could drive it to the same dealership that it was at on January 13th, rather than having to be towed in again. This just happened about an hour and a half ago. All of the symptoms that I described last time happened exactly the same again today, with the exception that after multiple restart attempts I was able to drive away just as if nothing happened.

Once again, they checked the codes and nothing was stored. However this time more people were involved at the service desk. A staff member was looking through the service history and noticed that it came in for some electrical issue in Missouri but that they didn't know what for and would look in to it further. I do know that this vehicle was from Missouri as I saw the Missouri title from Carmax when I bought on December 10th, 2019. I wish the dealership would have dug deeper at the service history the last time I was in.

Edited February 21, 2020 by BlaineBug